SEXT9
Well-known member
Thanks. It's kinda neat watching people walk up to the bike and take pictures or try and scan the code. It's really funny to see people in the back seat of cars or vans trying to scan a moving target.
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First of the Last
- Thread starter SEXT9
- Start date
Help Support Buellxb Forum:
BuddhaBuell
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2009
- Messages
- 2,094
gotcha [up]
the bromance that BamBam and I share my wife understands
lol
she knows we'll be getting saddle time together when I get an adventure touring off road horse.
ride safe
+1 for creativity and a sick looking ride
50dro
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2009
- Messages
- 5,614
Very nice! [up] Feel free to direct the code to www.5-0dro.com as often as you like! 
50dro
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2009
- Messages
- 5,614
Very nice! [up] Feel free to direct the code to www.5-0dro.com as often as you like!
Did I read in there that all of that is plasti-dip? I have plasti-dipped my truck rims and bumpers. Holding up really well.
I would be skeptical of doing the majority of the bike in Plasti-Dip - but yours looks like it's working, yes?
I would be skeptical of doing the majority of the bike in Plasti-Dip - but yours looks like it's working, yes?
SEXT9
Well-known member
The entire bike isn't plasti-dipped. Only the parts in white are plasti-dipped. That would be the front fender, airbox cover, flyscreen, both side scoops and the pillion cover. The rest of the bike appears to have come from the factory with a textured matte finish that matches up well with the plasti-dip finish.
SEXT9
Well-known member
I installed a 06 Yamaha R6 throttle sleeve tonight. It has a larger cam to get to Wide Open Throttle quicker. It was relatively simple but a tedious mod.
Here's the method I used.
The throttle sleeve is part # 2C0-26240-00-00
Here's the method I used.
The throttle sleeve is part # 2C0-26240-00-00
SEXT9
Well-known member
Even though I have been collecting parts for changes, I haven't done anything new so far for July. Really, I've just been enjoying riding the bike. I've been riding back and forth to work the last couple of days. That is an hour each way. With a helmet and armored jacket at 95 degrees outside, it's hot for sure.
It's been interesting at work with the bike parked out front. There's been some picture takers and people are coming in to ask if I will sell it. My co-workers are amused at the activity. I didn't realize how many Buell fans there are.
It's been interesting at work with the bike parked out front. There's been some picture takers and people are coming in to ask if I will sell it. My co-workers are amused at the activity. I didn't realize how many Buell fans there are.
heagachongoose
Well-known member
Probably one of the nicest Xb's I've seen. Really like what you did. +1[up]
That's my bad, I should have been more clear.
How have the PLASTICS held up with plasti-dip - and for how long? I will be temped to try this on my bike when I get it. Interested in the process you went through - It looks really, really nice.
SEXT9
Well-known member
The plasti-dip has held up well. It's been on there over a month now. It's been about a 1000 miles of riding.
I've got the same issue with mine I've seen someone else have. In the lower left hand corner of the airbox cover the plasti-dip is starting to peel up from my leg rubbing against it. That's about a 1"x1" section now. I'm sure it will grow some as summer wears on.
You also have to be careful and use the nylon washers when installing the body panels. The body bolts will turn against the plasti-dip coating and cause it to crinkle around the bolt head. The nylon washers help eliminate that some with a thin oil coat.
For use as a temporary clear coat or color solution on this bike, I don't think there's another product that compares to it. My son plasti-dipped the wheels, grill and hood of his SRT-4. He said he has a spot on 1 wheel working it's way up.
As a joke, we plasti-dipped my friend's entire Buick. Prior to the dip he explains his car as looking like it reentered the Earth's atmosphere upside-down. After the dip, the car has gotten a lot of attention from the 20-something crowd. To his surprise he has gotten a lot compliments and now plans to keep the dip on there. The dip is holding up great on his car. Cars don't get a lot of rub wear like motorcycles do.
Overall, I'm really impressed with plasti-dip. I know I was really skeptical at first. But I think it's done a lot better than any of us has expected it to.
I've got the same issue with mine I've seen someone else have. In the lower left hand corner of the airbox cover the plasti-dip is starting to peel up from my leg rubbing against it. That's about a 1"x1" section now. I'm sure it will grow some as summer wears on.
You also have to be careful and use the nylon washers when installing the body panels. The body bolts will turn against the plasti-dip coating and cause it to crinkle around the bolt head. The nylon washers help eliminate that some with a thin oil coat.
For use as a temporary clear coat or color solution on this bike, I don't think there's another product that compares to it. My son plasti-dipped the wheels, grill and hood of his SRT-4. He said he has a spot on 1 wheel working it's way up.
As a joke, we plasti-dipped my friend's entire Buick. Prior to the dip he explains his car as looking like it reentered the Earth's atmosphere upside-down. After the dip, the car has gotten a lot of attention from the 20-something crowd. To his surprise he has gotten a lot compliments and now plans to keep the dip on there. The dip is holding up great on his car. Cars don't get a lot of rub wear like motorcycles do.
Overall, I'm really impressed with plasti-dip. I know I was really skeptical at first. But I think it's done a lot better than any of us has expected it to.
SEXT9
Well-known member
Since I'm all keyless on this bike, there was a hole left in the under tray where the keylock for the seat used to be.
I purchased a marine grade 12 volt socket and installed it in the hole. It's a direct connection to the battery.
I purchased a marine grade 12 volt socket and installed it in the hole. It's a direct connection to the battery.
SEXT9
Well-known member
Thanks for the compliment I think. I like the chin spoiler.
And I would remove the passenger pegs. But my wife likes to ride with me once in a while. So I just throw on a select seat and go. When I've had the pegs off in the past, it just kills the spontaneous mood for her when she sees I have to install the pegs for her.
SEXT9
Well-known member
I've been doing a little tinkering to the bike again tonight. I setup my flash to pass switch as a garage door opener. I used an AutoSwitch AS7G and a Homelink transmitter. It's all hidden behind the flyscreen. Now there's no more getting of the bike and entering codes or searching for the key someone forgot to leave in its spot.
SEXT9
Well-known member
Here you go! I know the deal. Pictures or it didn't happen. And I'm happy to share how I did it!
Please Note: You can use the HomeLink transmitter with a non-powered momentary switch purchased from Radio Shack. The links above explain how to do that. The flash to pass switch puts out 12 volts. The AS7G switch simply habdles that voltage and closes the contacts without passing the voltage through to the transmitter and burning it up.
With that said, lets get started.
First I took the double sided tape and attached the AS7G to the transmitter housing.
I then cracked open the Homelink housing by pushing in on the 2 clasps on the side of it. The other side has a hinge that allows it to open. Next is to drill a hole in the housing to let the 2 pink wires pass through it. The instructions for the AS7G switch calls them "transmitter wires". Cut them to length.
Next is to solder the wires in place. Switch number one is at the top in this image. It doesn't matter which of the pink wires you choose. However, one wire of the transmitter wires must go to this location on switch #1. In the image above it is the top-left post.
The other wire of the transmitter wires goes to whatever switch you want to assign your door opener to. As you can see I have mine going to the center button. You can use whatever button you want so long as to solder it in the position as shown above. I believe in that image it is the bottom right post.
Next, close the Homelink case back up. Remove the Homelink's power and ground wires. The AS7G switch uses 12volt power and ground wires. Simply run them through the Homelink's connector.
- Red is 12V+ wired to the ignition.
- Black is the Ground wire.
- Yellow is the trigger wire. If your connecting to the Flash switch, you will connect to the White wire coming from your left side controls. You can connect this to anything that puts out a 12 volt pulse for 1.5 seconds.
Once all of those wires are connected. You should be able to test it. On mine I hold the flash to pass switch in for 1.5 seconds. This will cause the AS7G switch to activate. The AS7G switch closes the transmitter wire connection causing the Homelink transmitter to think the button you assigned has been pushed. It then activates your garage door.
Well It will activate your garage door once you've programed your garage door opener to the homelink transmitter. I wont go into programming the HomeLink transmitter. There's instuctions all over the web on how to do it.
Anyway we've covered everything as far as hooking up the wires. Be sure to tuck your AS7G & Homelink transmitter combination away where the Homelink buttons will not be pressed.
Also, you'll need to figure out where you will put the AS7G status led. It has a 6' long set of wires. So your choices are pretty endless. I placed mine up the steering stem show through the hex hole.
This was pretty easy to do as well.
1. Remove the steering nut.
2. Run the led and wire up the steering stem from the bottom
3. Drill a hole in a rubber stopper.
4. Shove the led and wire up the stopper until you can see as much as you want of the led.
5. Put the stopper in the steering stem tube. It should be about 85% the way in just sitting there.
6. Once you put on the stem nut the stopper will push in and collapse against the led enough to hold it in place.
The led glows solid red all of the time. Once you press your trigger button, it will flash red & green. When you let off the trigger it will glow solid green and activate your garage door.
I hope this is all understandable. Let me know if you have any questions.
Please Note: You can use the HomeLink transmitter with a non-powered momentary switch purchased from Radio Shack. The links above explain how to do that. The flash to pass switch puts out 12 volts. The AS7G switch simply habdles that voltage and closes the contacts without passing the voltage through to the transmitter and burning it up.
With that said, lets get started.
First I took the double sided tape and attached the AS7G to the transmitter housing.
I then cracked open the Homelink housing by pushing in on the 2 clasps on the side of it. The other side has a hinge that allows it to open. Next is to drill a hole in the housing to let the 2 pink wires pass through it. The instructions for the AS7G switch calls them "transmitter wires". Cut them to length.
Next is to solder the wires in place. Switch number one is at the top in this image. It doesn't matter which of the pink wires you choose. However, one wire of the transmitter wires must go to this location on switch #1. In the image above it is the top-left post.
The other wire of the transmitter wires goes to whatever switch you want to assign your door opener to. As you can see I have mine going to the center button. You can use whatever button you want so long as to solder it in the position as shown above. I believe in that image it is the bottom right post.
Next, close the Homelink case back up. Remove the Homelink's power and ground wires. The AS7G switch uses 12volt power and ground wires. Simply run them through the Homelink's connector.
- Red is 12V+ wired to the ignition.
- Black is the Ground wire.
- Yellow is the trigger wire. If your connecting to the Flash switch, you will connect to the White wire coming from your left side controls. You can connect this to anything that puts out a 12 volt pulse for 1.5 seconds.
Once all of those wires are connected. You should be able to test it. On mine I hold the flash to pass switch in for 1.5 seconds. This will cause the AS7G switch to activate. The AS7G switch closes the transmitter wire connection causing the Homelink transmitter to think the button you assigned has been pushed. It then activates your garage door.
Well It will activate your garage door once you've programed your garage door opener to the homelink transmitter. I wont go into programming the HomeLink transmitter. There's instuctions all over the web on how to do it.
Anyway we've covered everything as far as hooking up the wires. Be sure to tuck your AS7G & Homelink transmitter combination away where the Homelink buttons will not be pressed.
Also, you'll need to figure out where you will put the AS7G status led. It has a 6' long set of wires. So your choices are pretty endless. I placed mine up the steering stem show through the hex hole.
This was pretty easy to do as well.
1. Remove the steering nut.
2. Run the led and wire up the steering stem from the bottom
3. Drill a hole in a rubber stopper.
4. Shove the led and wire up the stopper until you can see as much as you want of the led.
5. Put the stopper in the steering stem tube. It should be about 85% the way in just sitting there.
6. Once you put on the stem nut the stopper will push in and collapse against the led enough to hold it in place.
The led glows solid red all of the time. Once you press your trigger button, it will flash red & green. When you let off the trigger it will glow solid green and activate your garage door.
I hope this is all understandable. Let me know if you have any questions.
SEXT9
Well-known member
SEXT9
Well-known member
A buddy of mine talked me in to entering a bike show with him. Surprisingly I won a class.
