Fix for CR Charging Problems?

[Nofi]

I just recently had a new ugrade harness, relay and VR installed, since my new battery was going dead. The old harness and regulator burned up. My bike was upgraded with a new stator and harness about 6 months ago. Evidently, the upgrades are not working and are experiencing a high failure rate. The dealer called me last night to inform me that HD found the problem. The upgrade harness is wired wrong at the relay. The harness has 4 wires going into the relay, two yellow and a gray and black wire. The gray wire goes to relay pin #86 and the black goes to #85. Both yellows go to pins #87. The black and gray wires are going to the wrong relay pins and should be switched, i.e. black goes to #86 and gray to #85. You have to remove the female pin connectors from the housing. I switched them and it seems to be working fine. I have not ridden the bike as it is raining. But at idle it started at 13.5V and went up to 14.3V in less than a minute. It is too early to tell for sure. I will keep you posted.

 

[bfletcher]

The "charging" problem that most are facing, is a fried stator. FYI

 

[Nofi]

Regarding the fried stators. The stator, VR, battery and relay/harness modification is all part of a system that controls the output of the alternator. If a key component(s)in this system fails couldn't this cause the stator to fail? Does anyone know the "root cause" for stator failure?

 

[poinographer]

The root cause? The stator gets too hot and eventually a winding fries.

 

[Nofi]

I am new to the website and am trying to catch up on the technical problems riders are experiencing with their 1125CR. My bike has a race ECM with a Barker exhaust. It runs both richer and cooler and I have heard this helps reduce the stator temperature.

 

[RT Performance]

welcome to the form Nofi.
FYI your dealer is full of Sh!t or HD is blowing smoke up you a$$.

Basic relay description.
pin 85 and 86 create a eltric magnet and close a hard contac for 87's
relley the small coil that energizes doesn't care wich way the power flows.
it sounds like your relay is dieing.

Will you burn up another Stator survey Says YES
There are a few poeple trying to work out a cost effective fix other than installing the 08 stator and rotor

 

[Mike Van V]

Nofi -

Neither richer intake...nore Barker exhaust has ANYTHING to do with the stator...! Except that they are connected to the same engine.

The stator is set in such a way that that cooling oil cannot properly get to the stator to...properly cool it.
While the 08 stator has a lower max. output and does NOT cook itself, the 09/10 stators have a higher output and eventually cook themselves.

And they don't cook "a" wire as noted above. The stator shorts out to the segments when the insulation is fried and shorts out...no output...
There are two segments in the 08 and three in the 09/10. You can still have enough output to charge the battery with one segment burned, but when two or all three are burned...you'll be pushing soon.!

Mine went at about 14,000 miles. Stator #2 is in and I had #1 rewound for later use. So far...#2 is working ok, at about 35,000 miles.

Mike

 

[Nofi]

Mike Van V: Thanks for helping me better understand the problem. I recently purchased a new Mosfet VR. I was told that the OEM shunt type VR causes the stator to heat up more. Do you think this will help?

If excessive heat is a problem then anything we do to reduce heat will help extend stator life. This assumes, of course, that the excess stator heat is being generated by the engine. IF the excessive heat is internal to the stator than dropping the engine temperature probably does not help. This is probably the condition you are referring too.

I recall reading somewhere that for every 10 degree increase in temperature component life is reduced 50%. A cooler running engine should generate less heat to the stator. My engine temperature dropped 10 degrees when I switched to the Barker exhaust and the racing ECM. I also run full synthetic Amsoil which probably drops temp. another 2-3 degrees. The average summer CT is 168 C. The max I have seen in stopped traffic on a hot day (100+) is 182 C. This appeare to be lower than what I have heard from other owners.


I am impressed that you have 35K on your CR and the #2 is working fine. There is hope!

 

[Guff]

Nofi. Hi to the forum,sounds like you worry to much[confused].When it brakes,fix it,there is plenty of help on this forum,RT performance has been a huge help to me,ENJOY[up]

 

[zdawg123]

The average summer CT is 168 C. The max I have seen in stopped traffic on a hot day (100+) is 182 C. This appeare to be lower than what I have heard from other owners.

Wow! I'm riding in 60 below weather right now and my CT still reads up to 172 average with an FMF pipe, race ECM, upgraded VR, rewound stator, and wrapped headers. In the summer, it's normal for me to be in the 190's and occasionally hit the low 200's here in West Texas. Learn me your secret, Nofi!

 

[d_adams]

www.ebracing.com for the fix.

 

[Nofi]

zdawq123: Not sure what the secret is, but I know excessive engine temperature leads to reduced longevity. The motor was broke-in by the previous owner using the Calsci Method. I run AMSOIL 20W-50. I have a Barker exhaust, race ECM (like you), K&N air filter and aftermarket intake stacks from Holland. Not sure if the previous owner added a coolant addtive, such as WaterWetter. I suspect most of the reduction in heat is a result of break-in and the fact that the engine runs richer with the race ECM. My mileage isn't good, I typically get 34 mpg around town and 43 mpg on the hiway.

 

[zdawg123]

Well I'm glad you're having nice temps, Nofi! I haven't done much research on WaterWetter. I plan to read up more on it before it starts getting hot again next year. Had my bike painted speedway blue and that helped a little. That black was hot. The header wrap helped a little. Couldn't tell much with the K&N filter. I am going to have my engine painted silver this winer, so I hope that'll help cool it off quicker at least.

 

[Nofi]

zdawq123: To keep the engine as cool as possible two things are required. A paint that has high emissivity and a high surface area. The best candidates which meet this requirement are crinkled black paint. Black paint unlike aluminum paint has an emissivity of greater than 90%. Aluminum, by contrast is around 10%. This means that the aluminum will only re-emit 10% of the internal heat to the outside environment vs. 90% for the black paint. The black paint is 9 times more efficient at shedding heat. This may seem counter intuitive. Of course everything is reversed if the source of the heat is coming from the outside environment. If you want to keep the engine cool when it is not running you paint it with aluminum. The aluminum will reflect most of the heat while the black will absorb it.

The advantage of the crinkled paint is it adds surface area, thereby improving the radiative or emissive power of the engine enclosure. This is what happens when you add cooling fins to an air cooled engine.

 

[zdawg123]

I've heard that as well. Can I tell a difference, I think I can, but it very well could be a placebo effect. Do I like the way it looks way better than stock, oh yeah! It does keep heat off my thighs better and the plastics cool down way faster. All I need is to find a way to paint my seat white lol

 

[Nofi]

Form does not always follow function. If this is true we would all wear helmets that mimic the consistency of skin over our skulls. Studies have shown that this type of helmet is best at reducing head injuries, but who would wear a helmet that looks like a ball of loose flesh!