For the Technically minded

[HOVERJOCKI]

Ok, over the past year i have posted a number of questions out there and i have had a bunch of great responses, so thanks to all..... heres my next one:
I have had the race chip in my bike now for a year and i find it excellerates pretty good in 5th when needed, but not getting the nose off the ground and not really sure what i am supposed to be noticing.
Part of me thinks i have a dud but not sure how to check it.. it does have the race use only on it, but am i supposed to notice a dramtic change or just subtle ones???
Any info greatly received.

 

[typeone]

its not really that dramatic. the timing is advanced in the upper range along with a bit more fueling. from my comparisons, the race map is leaner in the meat of the fuel map than the stock map but richer up top. makes sense due to how you would ride the bike, street vs. track.

in super basic comparison:

- stock = more broad fueling/timing that tapers off up top
- race = more focused fueling/timing for the higher rev range

i actually just went back to boosted stock fuel maps and timing tables on my 12. just feels meatier for street duty.

these are just my observations.. .

 

[HOVERJOCKI]

Thanks alot mate, makes sense. I feel a pretty good pull in 5th just thought i might get the nose off the ground... need to loose weight.
Again, thanks for the input.

 

[FIDOSOL]

Hey Hoverjocki search for the suspension settings post, lots of good info there, I only stiffened mine up a little bit and I like it, plus stiffer suspension equals less give and more wheelie time.

 

[HOVERJOCKI]

I'm running the stiffer settings but i'm not getting the pull off the ground i have seen on the firebolts.
Know its a different bike but looking at the buell website they have the same numbers.
Thanks again

 

[FIDOSOL]

I have the XB9SX and I have the pull, mines a stocky, search for the dyno chart for your bike (9/12 with whatever mods you do or don't have) LeFox may be able to help you out with that, and look for the peak torque areas for 1-3 gear, that is where you want to start, also you could always try a clutch wheelie, start low though, 2000RPM then almost drop the clutch, but not quite as fast as when you just dump the clutch, see how much wheel height you get and progress to your happy place. Keep in mind, I am by NO means an expert, just telling you exactly what I've been doing and I'm getting better. Wheelies are so much easier on a 200lb+ dirtbike versus a 385lb street bike...

BTW do you have a 9 or a 12?

 

[HOVERJOCKI]

Thanks... i'm running a 2005 XB12S, K&N filter, Drummer, race chip, swissed a small section of the inner airbox where the snorkle used to be.
I would have thought a 1200 would have a tonne of kick but i never really read up about Buells before i bought one... saw one, liked it, bought one.

 

[FIDOSOL]

Does have plenty of kick, another thing is alot of people ride really close to the airbox, I sit a little further back 1-3 inches and the change in the front wheel going up is quite remarkable. Give it a shot and let me know if any of this has helped you out.

 

[CBREDXB12s]

Im in the same boat as you HOVERJOCKI. I have an 07 12s and I bought it more or less on looks and comfort without really knowing to much about the bike and its power. I was a little dissapointed in the power, but I plan to do the race chip, intake and exhaust this winter, hoping for a little more grunt.

 

[HOVERJOCKI]

You'll get it... don't expect a powerband hit like the jap bikes but you do notice the torque/power in certain ranges.
I have done all those mods as of now, went with the drummer exhaust,race chip, k&n air filter, pulled out the snorkle and drilled 9 holes next to the area where the snorkle used to be.... playing around with the swiss cheese mod with the inner airbox at the mo... now its just cosmetic with handlebar, grips and lever change.
What typeone wrote earlier is right from what i have found with the race chip, you'll feel it pull in 5th when you open up (not like a bullet, but noticable)
Hell, if i wanted to move at the speed of light i would have traded in a year ago.... i like my toy, different, fun to ride and stands out in any group of bikes.
Have fun with the mods.

 

[Stevenc150]

CBRED,

Lefox replied to a post on here somewhere; about the best bike out there that was great at both speed And handling. He said there were 3 types of bikes:

- 1 - Bikes built to be great at Speed
- 2 - Bikes built to be great at Handling / Cornering
- 3 - Bikes that are really good at Both

(But the mods will add some of that grunt that your craving.)

 

[LeFox]

sometimes i don't understand people...

if you want power, don't go for a aircooled vtwin, it's not the engine's character.
power does not equal torque.

you want a good midrange & good power, either go with an aircooled vtwin or a 3cyl.

you want real top hp, get a 4cyl high reving jap bike but don't complain that you low-end is weak.
also the year after you bought your bike it will be outdated and new new model will have 50% more power which you can't even use.

people can easily build 400hp bikes, but what good is it if you can't use it?
wow...drag a 400hp bike...instead of getting a 9sec run you keep in the same spot for that same amount of time because you don't have the grip to translate it onto the road and when you do, you can't keep it on the road.

the buell is built for crosstown traffic...
a torquey bike with good fast reaction & cornering, and it does what it was built to do.
when i go all out, i lift the wheel no problem.
most fun bike i ever owned

you will never find a bike that is best at all things.