gear box noise

[DSHUMAKER]

I posted this on the forum face book page last night so I'm going to hit every one here. Long story short I had adjusted the primary chain and didn't tighten the lock nut enough and it backed out on a ride. readjusted it. Now when in neutral sounds fine in gear it makes a horrible clunky sound.

 

[DSHUMAKER]

Sorry about the lack of detail I have to head to work.

 

[Chicknstripn]

The plastic guide/shoe that tensions the chain my have gotten damaged.
I would plan on pulling the primary cover to inspect exactly what's going on inside the primary.
Something minor could lead to something catastrophic if not attended to early.
Chances are the noise my have always been there and you're just now hearing it BC you think something is a miss.
If you're very careful you won't even need to replace the primary gasket.
Despite what others might say, I've reused a primary gasket in the past with ZERO issues.
Even if nothing is wrong, doing a good inspection you'll at least have the peace of mind that everything has been throughly checked.

 

[DSHUMAKER]

The primary is already off things look ok I'm planning on changing the shoe and chain any way. I'm going to pull the clutch and output drive pulley to check out the bearings. Figure that's a good place to start. The more I think about it she's had a clunk when I hit the rear brake hard for a few weeks. That's why I want to check the output bearing.

 

[Chicknstripn]

Does the clunk happen when you down shift without the brakes?
I'd check the rear wheel bearings and the brake hardware/bracket.
Keep us posted on what you discover

 

[DSHUMAKER]

Will do but this is coming from the trans. I had it on stands last night fired it up and nothing in neutral sounds about normal for my bike when you put it in gear with clutch engaged normal but when disengaged and the wheel is spinning you can hear it feel it.

 

[Cooter]

Try spinning the rear wheel by hand. Does it feel rough? Loud?

 

[Chicknstripn]

For your sake, I hope it's not the trans.
Hopefully it's in the clutch.

 

[DSHUMAKER]

Long time cooter....doesn't really feel rough or loud when I spin it by hand but I just noticed that you can wiggle the clutch basket some it has play.

 

[ocgreenmachine]

Did you change the brake pads recently? I did a front brake check a while back and when I put the pads back in, the pad slipped out of the spring clip and allowed the pad to move back and forth, rattling when I would engage the front brake, and it felt like a clunking. I assume the rear brake could be similar.

 

[DSHUMAKER]

Hopefully it's something easy. I plan on doing the primary chain and shoe while I'm in there. The chain sags down past the primary case.

 

[ocgreenmachine]

^^ that is normal.

 

[DSHUMAKER]

The chain sag or clutch basket play?

 

[cjanderson_90]

Both of my bikes had slight clutch basket play I believe

 

[ocgreenmachine]

I believe both are normal

 

[DSHUMAKER]

Hummm well crap

 

[DSHUMAKER]

Lunaticfringe help!!!! John you always have words of wisdom!

 

[TPEHAK]

If you have necessary tools just disassemble the clutch basket and remove the stator cover, inspect the parts then assemble it back. Here is the clutch basket freeplay I had and it looks like it is OK, I replaced clutch basket bearing and the clutch basket still has the same freeplay.

 

[DSHUMAKER]

That's about what mine is like. I'm picking up the tools or making what I can. I'm dying to tear it apart but I'm having trouble finding the size of socket to fit the clutch. Thanks tpehak.

 

[user_deleted]

Lunaticfringe help!!!! John you always have words of wisdom!

ok darrin...found this post of yours. if you plan on making a trip inside the primary see the specs below. note that all clutch baskets have a bit of lateral free-play. i don't have the "run-out" specs but a light-lateral-wiggle is best i can describe it. IMPORTANT: the primary(front) fastening nut is 1-1/8th STANDARD RIGHT HAND THREADS. the clutch fastening or basket nut is 1-3/16th LEFT HAND THREADS. you MUST lock the basket and primary gears with a lock-bar as mentioned below to remove both front and rear nuts. then and only then you simply slide the front and rear assemblies with drive chain attached right off their shafts. that exposes the fixed stator assembly as well as clutch pack. here's specs on home-made locking bar: 4-1/8" long and can be a piece of 1" to 1-1/2" wide flat bar with the ends slightly rounded. Steel or aluminum will work. locks between the front and rear assembly locking primary and basket in place while loosening both nuts.
lastly darrin....before you take the plunge as above i would closely check 2 things: the primary chain adjuster post/shoe assembly. it is one complete unit and may have broken or simply worn out which happens but is rare. the other is stripped out threads bottom of primary cover that holds the adjuster post. cover is aluminum and if the post locknut was NOT secured and you rode the bike there's an excellent chance the threads pulled out of the primary cover. i have fixed many of them thru the years from precisely this mistake being made.