Headlight short above 1500ish RPM

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18DPA

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Joined
Nov 1, 2012
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I have HID lights on it for 5 months. About a week ago I noticed that once the bike is warmed up the lights cut out above about 1500 rpm. If I pull the clutch and the engine goes to idle the lights go back on. I've torn the entire front end apart, cleaned every plug and connector, checked the fuses (again and again). Its very hard to trouble shoot because sitting in the garage they work fine. Even reving it while stationary wont make them short out. Panel lights all come on, bike runs fine (Had a great track day today) Hi low indicator comes on and off.

Any suggestions?
 
I'm not familiar with HID's, but know enough about electricity to be dangerous:D...could be a ground issue, voltage regulator, battery issue, or stator issue.

so go back to before installing the HID's, did you ever have any issues with the stock setup? you've stated the HID's have been installed for 5 months and recently notice the current issue...have you done any other mods since then? trace your steps back if you can to what was done, maybe something missed or not, possibly something of the before mentioned is being affected by the mod.

before you do anything, jump pins 1 & 2 of the dongle and see what codes are flashing...this would probably be the best course of action to take first. just my 2 cents, good luck
 
VR over charging, the ballast run at a specific voltage, so when the input gets to high they cant maintain current and their light so they drop out. If you have access to a volt meter monitor the battery voltage between RPM ranges over 14 suspect bad VR
 
@crash I get the VR idea but why only while in gear? If it's the VR shouldn't it do it while just revving?
 
Really hard to say, my VR never sowed an issue while stationary till the very end, more amps/current draw while riding causes system to heat up and drop, like thrstrmech suggested poor grounds could be a factor as well, hard to draw amps when things are loose, when your light source is an arch of electricity, lots of things play a huge roll in its function.
 
actually ballast don't run on a specific voltage.. they run in a range.. Mine are from 9-16 Volts. But im not sure what the problem is.
 
Everything runs in a range, its when the range is exceeded that problems occur. Ballast get hot if you ever touched one that was on, start inputting 16+volts itll start to cook pretty good, as heat goes up so does resistance, and eventual failure of the unit or drop out.

Simplest check would be monitor your battery voltage while riding. If it stays in a safe range, are you running 2 separate ballasts or a single with duel outlets?
 
The voltage regulator sounds like a good start.

I am running 2 separate HID ballast. Each just plug and play inline of OEM wires.

I've been ripping it apart, cleaning, greasing and putting grounds and plugs back together and of course locktite everything as I go. I have been looking at it all for worn wires at vibration spots as well.

Ill hook up ECM spyand check the fault codes tonight. Then I can't wait to drive around with a multimeter. I think ill try in my garage first. I haven't really revved it very hard in the garage because of race pipe it's loud as hell. Maybe ill put it on the rear stand and caefully put it in gear and rev it to put a load on it???

Thanks guys ill let you know the progress tonight.


Keep the ideas coming.
 
All I was able to do last night was touch the multimeter to the battery. Stays right around 12.6 volts. Rev it and it only went to 13 for a fraction of a second. Ill read te manual this afternoon and start getting at this infamous plug on the voltage regulator
 
Thats not enough voltage at idle. Mine sits steady at 13.7v when i was experiencing intermittent CEL with battery codes idle was under 12, and my head lights would flicker between dim normal and crazy bright and sometimes blow out. Testyhe stator connector pins, test between 2 of the pins in all the combinations you can, idle 20v (this id AC voltage measure it correctly) bring RPMs up, 70+volts is great. Suspect your VR and replace it at that point.
 
Thanks guys. At least I'm narrowed down to two cheap and easy to replace parts.....ugh!!!

Finishing up with a bathtub repair and onto the bike.

Looks like either way I won't be riding it to Moto Gp at COTA this weekend.
 
18DPA,

I had a similar issue with my HID's, thread is below. Long Story short it was the stator, easy to check as you tear apart the primary and take a look at it, you'll know if it's bad. I'm in Austin, shoot me a PM if you need a hand. I've got a garage/compressor and most of the tools you might need.

Doc

nullMy thread
 
I just PM doc...

So I put the multimeter on the VR plug and did the AC check on the stator. I'm getting about 40v at 3000rpm. Seems to go up and down smoothly accordingly to the RPM. Crash It never went above 50 nowhere near 70. The DC Volts on the battery never go over 13. Doc I'm willing to tear into the primary to check the stator. I have all the stuff compressor etc just need more advice.

Oh and Screw Harley for printing that manual in Black and White and having a terrible photo of that cluster F(*&^ of wire harness
 
Quick update. I did a bunch of multimeter testing and none if the number for the VR or the stator were right. I toor into it and the stator has very obvious damage. The epoxy on one of the coils is burnt all to **** and the copper wire is all screwed. The VR back is cracked and the rubber is all bumpy. I figured I would replace both and its all on order from ASB.
 
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