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Headlights keep burning out

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p2r

Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2012
Messages
10
Im curious to know if a dying battery will cause my headlight to keep burning out? I have to charge e battery before I ride the bike because it will die in a couple of days. I havent ridden over the winter so far but today I took the bike out and while I was riding the headlight burnt out. Any thoughts on this? I know I need to just get a new battery anyways but I'm starting to wonder if there is another issue. Thank you.
 
you should think about installing one of my volt gauges on your lightning. fun to watch and cheap to buy. a bit confused on your post. you state "bulbs keep burning out" but then continue with "headlight burned out". if it happened to just 1 bulb just 1 time i would tend to think it is merely coincidental. but if your charging system is over-charging one of first signs of this problem is both cooked battery and bulbs blowing, particularly the headlight H-7 bulb as they are sensitive to voltage surges. and a battery with a shorted cell will also do this. just for the hell of it prior to installing new battery i would give your present battery a full charge at like 3 amps over-nite, start bike in the morning, and check across the battery terminals for voltage. you should see approx. 13.8-14.5 volts at about 2500rpm....something in that ballpark. DC VOLTS that is.
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then i would, assuming you have a lightning, at least remove the headlight bulb plugs, clean them if any signs of corrosion or significant dirt, and move onto checking voltage at battery terminals as i outlined above. you want to correctly diagnose this prior to throwing alot of wasted money at new bulbs. the voltage diagnosis as i outlined above is what i'd be checking. you can always remove your headlight fuse or unplug the headlights during this process to save the bulbs.
 
I checked the voltage, it is at 11.6v while the bike is running. It will go over 12 if I rev it but then right back to 11.6. Is this a stator issue then?
 
I had a problem last season where I was blowing out headlights. Ended up being my voltage regulator. I know because i got a check engine light. Later in the season, my battery also started giving me problems ( hesitation, choking on acceleration and missfireing), had to change that also. Now it runs good as new.
Let me know if you have any questions.
 
I bought a new battery because I was at work with my bike and was low on options, put it in and had no problems getting home. Today I started working on it and pulled out the service manual. I ran every check in there and I can't find any problems with the stator or the voltage regulator. The thing that gets me is my new battery is only reading 11.9 volts at rest and 12.3 while the bike is running. I'm going to let it sit there for a few day ( it got cold again where I can't ride) and check the battery in a few days.
 
do the simplest things first. is your volt gauge you're using for diagnostics known to be accurate? a fully charged good battery...you said yours is new...should read something in the area of 12.3-12.5 volts. and again, if you're only seeing 11.5 to 12 volts with the bike running at 2500 rpm or so, it is not charging. use your manual and check both stator and VR. easy to check, manual will walk you thru it. and don't forget that the stator output is AC VOLTS.....NOT dc volts.
 
My 08 was burning bulbs from over charging,The voltage reg. was the problem ,The simplest way to know is check voltage at battery while running, mine was way up around 16. I changed reg. and problem solved.
 
Hey Lando,
Having the same issue with blown head lights and the hesitation, choking on acceleration.
Would you suggest changing the battery first then if the problem persist looking in the the Volt Reg?
 
I've seen this a few times on a few different makes of bikes, It's usually the rectifier or voltage regulator or whatever you want to call it
 
Lando isn't around anymore since this thread is 4 years old, but no worries you should check the charging system first since it's suspect with the headlights burning out often.

Put the free voltmeter you got with a coupon from Harbor Freight tools on the battery terminals. Now is a good time to make sure they aren't loose or corroded underneath the terminals. You should have more than 12.5V at rest.

Now crank the engine, you should have more than 9.6V

Now rev the engine to 2500 rpm. You should have close to 14.7 volts. Any more than that and you need a new voltage regulator.

You left zero info about your bike so the usual check for hesitation involve intake leaks or a air horn gasket out of place (especially if someones removed the bottom of the airbox cover recently). Both things are easy to search on here.
 
I had the same issue on my 08 , it was the VR . ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Follow Cooter on this, It was spiky up to 15 with the volts, when it peaked it cooked the bulbs.
 
Thanks Cooter & SilverRider,

The Bike is a 2007 XB12S, 13k miles, recently purchased from the original owner.
One bulb was out when purchased, the other went out 500 miles down the road.
Replaced both bulbs with H7 Philips Vision 3 Stars(30% more light) > they went out within days.

I did the battery Voltage - Results
12.66 @ rest > 14.4-.6 at idle > remains the same/Drop to high 13's at rev.

1. Could a this be the VR or do you think a bad cell in the battery.
Saw from Lando, the bulbs plus the hesitation could be a sign of a bad battery.
2. Is there a good brand/Model of bulbs that I should be using?


Thanks again for all the insight and help.
 
I did the battery Voltage - Results
12.66 @ rest > 14.4-.6 at idle > remains the same/Drop to high 13's at rev.

1. Could a this be the VR or do you think a bad cell in the battery.


CONTRARY to popular opinion...electrons/current flow on a negative ground vehicle is from all negative side terminals to the positive battery terminal. that is the flow direction. see step #3 below which is critical. it's also crucial that you establish a good known ground between the VR and the bike itself. enhances charging and extends the life of the VR dramatically.

your voltage output at idle is the indication something askew: it's way too high! typically a healthy XB will barely see 13 volts @ 1000rpm curb idle speed. running "down the highway" @ 3000rpm with a dying or sub-standard battery you may briefly see 14.6 volts but that reading is a bulb-killer and relay heater. do this:
1-if you have some POS chinese battery installed trash it and buy quality such as an ETX-14 Deka or Big Crank and install.
2-if presently a decent battery installed then fully charge with a quality charger and have it load tested
3-check your grounds!!! they are: negative cable to frame....harness to frame same area....braided motor to frame under airbox base plate at dog-bone mount....front of bike at either steering neck or triple clamp pinch bolt.
4. after thoroughly following my steps above if you still see similar volt readings as before replace the VR. it's finished.
i would also replace the "battery" fuse in the fusebox if replacing the VR. it's 10 cents.
 
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