Hey...New here :D

[WhenFitHitsTheShan67]

Hello all,

Kinda wanted to introduce myself. I just bought a 06' Uly as my first bike...Yes, I'm aware it's not the ideal first bike but it's the bike I've wanted ever since 2006. I also bought a bike that needs some work. It was a coast bike so it's got some surface rust here and there on some of the mounting bolts for the mirrors and foot pegs. It also has an aftermarket exhaust of some flavor, K&N air filter, Wiseco fuel management controller, and no luggage. I'd really like to get a full set of the Outdoorsman luggage, but I already know that's going to be hard to find. Plus, there's a laundry list of other little things that need to get sorted out.

For example, the side stand is not trustworthy at all. It's super wobbly and doesn't want to stay in one place. The clutch cable is super rusty and the turnbuckle is frozen, no matter how much PB Blaster I spray on it. So, that will be getting replaced here in a week or two. Also, once the bike gets hot, finding neutral is almost impossible. I've done some reading and I think that the primary chain could be out of adjustment. The low fuel light never goes out even with gas filled all the way to the top. I think that's the low fuel sensor in the fuel pump. That's going to wait till the dead of winter so, I can drop the swing arm. And if that's not enough, the front brake rotor is warped. I've already changed the oil, oil filter, and spark plugs, as well as cleaned the air filter and played with the fuel controller a little bit. I still want to do a primary case and transmission fluid change.

I guess here are my initial questions:

-What else could be the cause for the difficulties of finding neutral when hot? I know it's not just my inexperience as a rider because my dad who has been riding for 30+ years has trouble finding neutral as well. While I'm checking the primary chain adjustment, I'll also take a look at the clutch and see how that's adjusted.

-It's not a pressing issue at the moment, but the luggage racks for the regular Buell cases (I already know that they're just re-branded Hepco and Becker Journey cases), are those compatible with the Outdoorsman (H&B Junior) luggage cases?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all in advance.

 

[Cooter]

Welcome to the forum, I hope your Uly takes you on the adventures you seek!

There is an update, upgrade to the side stand pin (search on here) and make sure the bracket is tight in the case.

The fuel pump can be removed by supporting the rear, removing the lower shock bolt and dropping the swingarm all the way. Simple!

Front rotor may not be warped. It might just have been bedded wrong. Search "EBR rotor upgrade" on here.

Primary chain adjustment is easy. You'll find the manual at Buellmods.com.

Have fun!

 

[njloco]

Welcome aboard, lots of good information and people here that are glad to help.

I can finally make a suggestion being a new Bueller myself, make sure to take all of the ground wires off and clean them real good, then apply some kind of anti corrosive that is also a good conductor of electricity.

Good luck.

 

[glenn r]

Get the factory service manual about $60 , working on bike is simple and guys on forum are very supportive good luck

 

[user_deleted]

answers to most of your questions:
1-factory brake pads on all XB models are garbage. before investing in a new rotor and possible mounting hardware, remove same, glass bead then wash, check for trueness, install EBC HH pads, remount rotor, remount wheel, bed in the pads properly, and see what you have. in conjunction it is mandatory to bleed and refresh both front and rear systems with dot-4 fluid. if it's a "coastal bike" as you mentioned i can assure you that both brake systems contaminated with moisture.
2-proper quantity-viscosity-brand of primary/trans fluid in conjunction with primary drive chain adjustment in conjunction with proper clutch pack and cable adjustment critical on these bikes. done correctly they actually shift very nicely. without these procedures the shifting is atrocious including false neutrals as well as difficult-to-locate neutrals.
3-low fuel level indicator light malfunctions always the result of sensor bladder. still available thru any H-D outfit. or online like here....with correct part #....http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/282162704686?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

 

[user_deleted]

you're welcome

 

[WhenFitHitsTheShan67]

you're welcome

Yes! Thank you and thanks to everyone who replied. I'm sorry I didn't get to this thread earlier. I haven't been paying attention to my email and never saw an email saying that someone had replied to my post. But thank you all very much for replying!

I guess I'll update now. We replaced the clutch cable and upon checking the primary chain tension, we discovered that it was actually pretty loose so we tightened it back up. I also drained the fluid from the transmission and primary case while it was on the lift. After reinstalling the cable and adjusting the clutch and cable to what we thought was in spec, the clutch wouldn't disengage. So after dicking around with it for 2 days and calling the local H-D shop, we finally got it to disengage. I think the bike definitely shifts a little bit smoother, the clutch just engages much later and I don't like having to readjust to it. But that's really just in my head more than anything. As for the rotor, I have yet to take it apart yet. I will definitely check the rubber parts, if there are many, of the brake lines and see if they're in need of replacement.

Again, I'm sorry for the delayed response and thank you for the information.

 

[Cooter]

If you do take the rotor off the front wheel, I highly recommend the EBR update bolt kit. Made a big difference to me!

 

[WhenFitHitsTheShan67]

If you do take the rotor off the front wheel, I highly recommend the EBR update bolt kit. Made a big difference to me!

I've heard of this kit, but I don't understand what's so special about it? The other thing too is that I can't seem to find the EBR front rotor for any of the XB models. Is that a discontinued part now? I may just end up going with the EBC rotor because H-D wants like $320 for the OE rotor and that just seems ridiculous to me. I will definitely upgrade to the EBC pads, a local bike shop here can order them for me. The rotor, they're having a bigger struggle with. I may just end up ordering it from Moto Machines down in California next week.

 

[Cooter]

PM Lunatic for the right brake pads.
The EBR rotor is for any Buell front wheel. There's only one.
The EBR bolt kit is also for and Buell front wheel. It replaces all the springs, washers, and stuff with simple bolts and square washers. Supposed to be better with heat dissipation and I can tell you it's a big difference when doing a track day.

Some really cool guy wrote a post about it. He's really smart. And good looking...
http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?48151-EBR-Racing-front-rotor-install-instructions

 

[user_deleted]

So after dicking around with it for 2 days and calling the local H-D shop, we finally got it to disengage. I think the bike definitely shifts a little bit smoother, the clutch just engages much later and I don't like having to readjust to it.

the clutch cables and clutch pack adjustment really a breeze on all XB's. should be 1/2 hour max to perform....not 2 days. if the clutch engages quite late in reference to the length of the lever throw it can only be result of either a clutch pack headed to clutch heaven.....or an out of adjustment cable/pack procedure....or both. late engagement relative to lever action the tell-tale sign.

 

[WhenFitHitsTheShan67]

PM Lunatic for the right brake pads.
The EBR rotor is for any Buell front wheel. There's only one.
The EBR bolt kit is also for and Buell front wheel. It replaces all the springs, washers, and stuff with simple bolts and square washers. Supposed to be better with heat dissipation and I can tell you it's a big difference when doing a track day.

Some really cool guy wrote a post about it. He's really smart. And good looking...
http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?48151-EBR-Racing-front-rotor-install-instructions

Um...Yeah, that EBR rotor is $400 from AF1 Racing. The EBC rotor is less than half that and EBC is still a good manufacturer. At least, I've heard good things about them. The EBR mounting hardware is something I'll certainly consider. But the rotor is definitely warped. I can feel it in the lever at slow speeds kicking back a little bit. At least, I'm really hoping it's just a warped rotor and not a bent wheel. Or is that an irrational fear?

 

[user_deleted]

EBC rotors and pads outstanding as are all their componentry. XB/1125 front rotor part # is MD735RS. my dealer cost is $138. keep that price in mind when ordering from somewhere.
in all likelihood your wheel is fine. simply lift up front of bike....kneel or sit on either side of front wheel and with it pointed straight....spin in forward direction. if a cast aluminum wheel is bent you will see it in approx. 1/3rd of a second.