How To: Build your own Exhaust!

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Could the check engine light be due to the elimination of the exhaust valve?
If so, you can get an emulator or turn it off with ecm spy.
 
don't think its from the exhaust valve... the servo is still there the cable is just not connected to it.

i managed to make a usb cable with an RS232 chip converter on it but cant download ECMspy anymore...

does anyone have a link or a copy i could have...
 
Urban - replied to your pm.

you might have to use winrar to compress the files or it will get rejected by email client.

depending on how large the files are you can specify a size limit and winrar will split the file into a set that you can email me 2 or 3 at a time... email size limit is 20mb so as long as its under 20mb then 1 rar file should be sweet.
 
Grrrrr.... front muffler strap snapped today...

5539_20110116065804_L.jpg


Is there any way to stop these from snapping? I was thinking maybe some sort of heat resistant rubber to cushion the vibrations...

Or other option I just thought of was welding the muffler to the strap mount that’s bolted to the bike... would this be a good idea and eliminate the front strap all together?

Example below. Yellow line would be where I would weld it.

5539_20110116065822_L.jpg
 
it probably broke because the strap was OVERTIGHTENED/OVER TORQUED which stretches the strap and in turn WEAKENS IT.
think about it when you taken a piece of metal and you keep bending it back and forth until finally starts to crack then you keep bending it back and forth then it finally BREAKS !

also the manual says to never reuse the front strap probably for that reason. it says to replace the front strap with new one when removed fromt the system.

you ONLY need to TORQUE IT to the Proper specs of
tighten the front and alternately tighten the rear strap fasteners EVENLY till fasteners are tightened to:

a. front tighten around muffler till snug.
b. REAR torue to 48-60 INCH-LBs(5-7Nm)
c. front muffler mount; 16-18FT-LBs(21.7-24.4Nm)
d. Front: 108-120IN-LBs(12-14Nm) then BACK OFF two
full turns and then Retighten to 108-120IN-LBs(12-14Nm) tighten until snug.


( but if it has not been overtightened and strechted out and your carefull to not overstectch or over torque it could be used a few times but it would be best to replace it just make sure yoou thruoghly inspect it before reuseing it)
 
this was a brand new strap, probs 1 month old.

wasn't over tightened. i followed the manual specs.

i think it snapped cause my engine and muffler vibrate like mad...

am thinking it needs some sort of rubber cushioning or something around the strap.
 
that looks like it broke from being loose.i tightend mine to specs also and it broke.then i tightened the **** out of it and it lasted until i changed pipes.you may also have a rough spot on the bracket where the tear occured.
 
yeah just looked at the muffler and there is a ridge exactly where the snap is... think I'll get some of that fiberglass exhaust wrap and wrap a strip of that around my muffler for cushioning and then put the strap on top of it.
 
bro, not trying to ***** on you but if those welds hold for more than a couple hundred of miles I will be veryyyyyyy suprised. grindn em down isnt gonna make em any better man. I wish I could help ya but i wouldnt really know how to explain it to ya
 
I think with the chamber empty, u may lose back pressure n bottom . I had a gutted muffler which is worse cause u really lose low n mid n top end. So I think the packing makes this design work creating back pressure. Just my opinion
 
ok so after months of procrastination i finally got around to finishing off my exhaust.

painted it with Dupli-Color 700c black exhaust paint.
5539_20110329185823_L.jpg

5539_20110329185843_L.jpg

5539_20110329185911_L.jpg

5539_20110329185928_L.jpg
 
i have a quick question regarding this mod - forgive me if it sounds dumb: did you pack in the steel wool first and then the mesh or mesh with steel pressed on top to prevent it from blowing out?

i am at the bum end of the world (South Africa) and finding parts (for just about anything) is a real mission! i want to do this mod over the weekend.

bottom end torque/power OK?

any issues to look out for when running this set up?

btw - i have a 2008/9 Ulysses XT with the exhaust valve - which is why most shops don't want to touch the Buells. also HD dealership said they could do the gut at a cost of $320, plus i have to pay shipping!

that is almost more than what a custom slip-on will cost!
 
Hey Wally

I put the fiberglass packing down first and then put the stainless steel down on top and wrapped it around the end of the pipes, then i put more fiberglass packing on top.

example
5539_20110406052424_L.jpg


another option is you could weld 2 stainless steel pipes together and drill a bunch of hols for the gasses to escape, and then weld them in place inside the muffler and add the fiberglass packing all around it, that way there is no way the packing will blow out the back.

example:
5539_20110406052448_L.jpg
 

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