Release fuel line pressure according service manual, disconnect fuel line from the intake fuel ramp, guide the fuel line in the canister, connect fuel pump back, turn ignition key on and start the pump flipping the kill switch to drain the tank. You also can use BuellTooth dongle to activate the fuel pump.
I have to drain my gas tank
- Thread starter FIDOSOL
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Release fuel line pressure according service manual, disconnect fuel line from the intake fuel ramp, guide the fuel line in the canister, connect fuel pump back, turn ignition key on and start the pump flipping the kill switch to drain the tank. You also can use BuellTooth dongle to activate the fuel pump.
Silverrider
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2016
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^^^ XB, You are replying to a 10 yrs question ?? by now his fuel evaporated or turned to varnish.
Fidosol ,He has not been on the board since 05-12-2012
Fidosol ,He has not been on the board since 05-12-2012
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njloco
Well-known member
Must be a Cali thing!
user_deleted
Well-known member
Hey peeps,
My 08 Uly decided to play hard to get after being stored in an outdoor shed all winter (Vermont). I am going to drain old fuel and replace spark plugs, but here's the thing. The bike won't start - it cranks and then either the exchaust goes KABOOM or nothing at all happens. This makes starting the bike till it stalls due to the lack of gas a problem.
I disconnected the fuel pump connector. Without killing myself, how do I make sure there is no high pressure gas in the system? Is it safe to remove the drain plug at this point? Do I need to remove all 4 allen bolts and the whole entire plate?
Thanks,
Tolson
My 08 Uly decided to play hard to get after being stored in an outdoor shed all winter (Vermont). I am going to drain old fuel and replace spark plugs, but here's the thing. The bike won't start - it cranks and then either the exchaust goes KABOOM or nothing at all happens. This makes starting the bike till it stalls due to the lack of gas a problem.
I disconnected the fuel pump connector. Without killing myself, how do I make sure there is no high pressure gas in the system? Is it safe to remove the drain plug at this point? Do I need to remove all 4 allen bolts and the whole entire plate?
Thanks,
Tolson
user_deleted
Well-known member
it cranks and then either the exchaust goes KABOOM or nothing at all happens.
classic fouled plugs. replace with NGK DCPR8EIX
Without killing myself, how do I make sure there is no high pressure gas in the system?
there isn't.
Is it safe to remove the drain plug at this point?
YES. leave gas cap ON....then remove drain plug. after flow starts remove cap to speed fuel flow.
Do I need to remove all 4 allen bolts and the whole entire plate?
YES. and unplug pump wiring harness.
classic fouled plugs. replace with NGK DCPR8EIX
Without killing myself, how do I make sure there is no high pressure gas in the system?
there isn't.
Is it safe to remove the drain plug at this point?
YES. leave gas cap ON....then remove drain plug. after flow starts remove cap to speed fuel flow.
Do I need to remove all 4 allen bolts and the whole entire plate?
YES. and unplug pump wiring harness.
user_deleted
Well-known member
yes sir my pleasure. NOTE THIS: though the service manual states otherwise the trick to easy plug installation is to use a simple 5/8th inch box wrench for the front plug after removing the left front factory air intake scoop. then for the rear plug simply remove airbox cover....airbox inner lid(5 plastic snaps)...air filter....inner airbox base(4 torx-pink loctite from factory). takes total of 5 minutes and with those simple components removed and set aside you can now access quite easily the coil, plug wires, and the rear plug. put a small dab of anti-seize on each plug thread...check plug gap...and install the rear one with a 3/8th drive spark plug socket, swivel, and long extension. ALSO STRONGLY SUGGEST starting each plug by hand. that way it's impossible to cross-thread them and totally bitch up the plug threads....which sadly many have done. i gap to .037....and torque to 15 ft. lbs
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Nice, thank you for responding and I appreciate plug-specific recos. I have an owners' manual so I followed their steps before I posted here for the first time. The front plug removal was the same as you described - I used a combination of the official instructions, a Youtube video, and a few choicest words - but pretty close to what you said. The rear plug is a piece of work for sure - a lot of hardware in the way and I have short stubby fingers. New plugs are going in tomorrow, I have a few 12 oz. coolant bottles ready.
Chicknstripn
Well-known member
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?49748-simple-no-mess-funnel-for-draining-XB-fuel-tanks
Check out the above thread/link for additional assistance/tips.
And definitely follow lunatics advice. You can’t search google for a Buell Xb related topic without finding his name in a thread or two. The man knows these machines
Also, a great tip when threading the spark plugs by hand, is to use some sort or rubber tubing to get the spark plug started. Put the end of the spark plug(where the spark plug wire attatches) in the rubber tubing as you twist the opposite end of the tubing to get the threads started. Tubing needs to be on the spark plug just snug enough that the tube binds and comes loose IF a plug starts cross threading.
Hope this helps
Good luck
Check out the above thread/link for additional assistance/tips.
And definitely follow lunatics advice. You can’t search google for a Buell Xb related topic without finding his name in a thread or two. The man knows these machines
Also, a great tip when threading the spark plugs by hand, is to use some sort or rubber tubing to get the spark plug started. Put the end of the spark plug(where the spark plug wire attatches) in the rubber tubing as you twist the opposite end of the tubing to get the threads started. Tubing needs to be on the spark plug just snug enough that the tube binds and comes loose IF a plug starts cross threading.
Hope this helps
Good luck
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Awesome bit of advice, thank you, Chicknstripn! Everything makes total sense there and I think I'm ready to drain gas if I have to.
Got both new plugs in, that was easier than I thought. Either the old ones were screwed in with no antiseize, or they were way old, or a combination of both factors, but it took a while getting them out. My challenge du jour is a broken rusted out rear spark plug cable that needs replacing through no fault of mine. That's easy enough, just have to wait a few days. :upset:
Not gonna touch the gas drain project till I have the electrical sort out. So much for riding this weekend.
Got both new plugs in, that was easier than I thought. Either the old ones were screwed in with no antiseize, or they were way old, or a combination of both factors, but it took a while getting them out. My challenge du jour is a broken rusted out rear spark plug cable that needs replacing through no fault of mine. That's easy enough, just have to wait a few days. :upset:
Not gonna touch the gas drain project till I have the electrical sort out. So much for riding this weekend.
Chicknstripn
Well-known member
I have some spare spark plug wires. They’re used but in good shape.
If you’re interested.....
PM me your address and I’ll send them out to you.
No charge at all, just wanting to help, and of course when you have the opportunity pay it forward.
If you’re interested.....
PM me your address and I’ll send them out to you.
No charge at all, just wanting to help, and of course when you have the opportunity pay it forward.
Appreciate it, I am all about paying it forward. In the heat of the moment I placed an order for a new set of cables online this morning, but am thankful for the offer! I'm sure I'll have more Buell rookie questions though.
After a few days of cold rainy weather, finally got a chance to put the Uly together and it STARTED (on the third kick, but who's counting!) Turns out plugs and plug cables needed to be replaced. There's likely water in the tank, but no need to drain gas - I'll burn it all this week. Thank you for all the help and advice!
