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LOW Idle speed and hesitant response

Buellxb Forum

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bajaraider

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 18, 2007
Messages
52
Yesterday everything was good. This morning she started up just fine. Rode on in to work, and when I get to the light right before the office, she becomes very un-responsive. A second or two of hesitation before the rpms get up. So I pulled into the parking lot and she sounds like shes about to die. The idle is around 800 rpm!

Why the drop in idle speed and lack of response?
 
Not sure why it dropped, but the idle is pretty easy to adjust. The knob is tucked behind the left side air scoop. Turn it up a little and see if it drops again.
 
You might check your idle adjustment cable, mine got snagged and stripped on one of the head bolts. It through my tps reset off and consequently, the idle.
 
I called the shop. Best guess is fouled plugs, maybe bad gas.

I will keep an eye out for any snagged cables as well.
Update probably this weekend...
 
Re-adjust your idle speed after ensuring the motor is up to temp (go out for a 10-15 minute ride). If the motor is not up to operating temp, it runs in an idle enrichment mode, causing it to idle a little faster. If you adjust the idle in this condition while the bike is still warming up and set it to 900-1050 rpm, then it will likely idle roughly (maybe even unable to idle) once the enrichment turns off.

I can't tell you how many Buell riders I know that have experienced this after having their bikes serviced at HD. I think some of the HD techs are doing a TPS reset as part of the scheduled service, but then adjust the idle immediately without letting the bike warm up.

I would start by re-adjusting your idle. If that clears up your idle issue, then move on to your hesitation problem if it still exists.
 
Something that has been left out is you need to set your TPS to ~5.2 degrees (not percent) before you go for a ride. This will get you close to where you need to be and allow your bike to run good enough until you set the rpm to ~1k. Mine runs at 5.7 degrees with a very steady 950rpm...but then again I had to adjust the timing in those areas to accomplish those results.
 
I didn't get a chance to replace the plugs, but I did try to clean them up to see if it was a start to correcting the issue...

The rear cylinder is not firing. Or if it is, it is barely firing. I let it idle for about 3-5 minutes after cleaning the plugs, and the rear cylinder was hardly warm at all. and the rear header was cool enough to touch.

I will call the shop in the morning and see what they suggest. It may just have to make a visit there...
 
Before you spend your hard earned Money, May want to try these Before going the Dealer route.1st,remove the air box cover. Check the plug wires,switch around if necessary.More than likely you [need] at least one! If the rear cylinder is cold,that firing for the rear may be as simple as A wire or a plug going bad.To check the rear wire(theres a spark tool)at Sears or [Harbor Freight] couple of bucks.Very easy test.It just slips over the plug it will light up when firing.The Straight one works better for what you need. I ALWAYS use Two one for each cylinder. SAVES Time! Start with the Small items First.If the Front is working and the rear is not. It's possible you are needing coil work a wire etc.. Hope the coil is good but This small inexpensive check will help get you in the right direction, to figure out what your next step should be. Also Make sure to check all the connections around the Battery,the grounds and coil area. You will need some plugs more than likely also. After you finish with all the Repairs A Throttle Position Reset is in order for a good running Bike.`Jimi
 
Even better news!!! Changed the plugs, buttoned it all back up, and she is up a running as good as ever!

I guess the plugs were fouled out that bad, obviously the rear plug worse than the front.

Thanks for all the tips and advice. I am sure it will come in handy eventually. I need to go pick up a couple of the spark plug testers that you talked about.
 
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