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Mainshaft removal

Buellxb Forum

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jgcable

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2011
Messages
130
I have my case split on my 2003 XB9R to replace the transmission. The mainshaft is still attached to the left side of the engine case. All the gears are off of it. Does it need to be pressed out?
 
What I have is the complete engine disassembled. I have both sides of the case apart. There is nothing in either of the cases except for this one mainshaft. There are no screws to take out anywhere. Itc completely taken apart.
It looks like the mainshaft is pressed into the bearing into the side of the case. I wacked it with a rubber mallet but it won't come out. Thats why I figured it must be pressed in.
 
Here is a pic of what I have.

PICT0103.jpg
 
make sure you have number 1 in the pic removed

1924_20120402004000_L.jpg


then press out as such

1924_20120402004048_L.jpg


you're not doing this without a manual are you?
 
I have the service manual. The #1 snap ring is removed. Per Figure 6-61 it shows an arbor press being needed to remove both the mainshaft and the countershaft. My countershaft came right out with no press needed. It wasn't pressed in. The mainshaft appears to me to be pressed into the large bearing in that side of the crankcase. Thats the question I am asking because I don't own a press and I will need to bring it to a machine shop to have it removed. I suppose I will need that same machine shop press the new one in. Will they also need to press in the countershaft?
 
How did you get the new one in? Did you hammer it in? If so, how did you insure that it was seated all the way in?
 
Any idea what caused your problem in the 1st place? My trans locked up (I believe I upshifted at the moment, but Mr toads wild ride had started so...)

Were you able to get the parts you needed? Or did you find a complete trans set somewhere?

Mines an XB12 - 05. But they appear to be about the same.
 
What happened was one of the shift forks got jammed in one of the gears and caused the shifter fork tube to bend slightly. When this happened it locked up the transmission in second gear and broke the teeth of of 3 of the gears on the mainshaft. The shift fork was jammed inbetween the gears and this locked up the transmission. There was no warning or indication that this would happen.Bike was being downshifted normally when getting off the highway and it jammed up in second gear. Bike only has 10K on it. I got the complete transmission (mainshaft and countershaft with all the gears) on Ebay after searching for about 9 months. I am going to install new rings, valve stem seals and gaskets of course.
 
Just curious, why did you put the nut back on before you hit it with the dead blow hammer? Both ends of the mainshaft are flat.
 
Sounds like mine, except I was going up vrs down. Refreshing the top end it definitely a great idea since you have it opened. I'll put it on my list of repairs as well.
Are you going to build / buy / borrow the Transmission Remover/Installer fixture (Part No. B-43985-2) or do you think it can be reassembled without?
Anyone know for sure if the trans tools are 100% necessary or can it be assembled with some care and ingenuity?
 
What I have is exactly figure 6-61 as shown above and my picture. I am afraid of damaging the bearing if I start hammering away at the mainshaft with a deadblow hammer. I think I will need to bring the engine case with the mainshaft along with the new mainshaft and have the machine shop remove the old one and install the new one. Technically, I guess I could just leave it in there and remove the gears from the new transmissiosn and reinstall them on the mainshaft I already have.
 
I put the nut back on so when I tapped it out the main shaft didn't fall out of the bearing. Also I didn't have to get all he-man with the dead blow. Two hits and it slide out
8854_20120325150925_L.jpg
 
While you might have been successful in removing the shaft, you DO NOT want to hammer those things in and out!!!!!! You will regret it! The engine cases have a small lip that the trans. bearings press against when they are installed, and banging on the mainshaft or countershaft can easily break those lips right off! Then you are buying new cases or welding your cases.

You can also damage the bearings by side loading them with such shock.

I am surprised you were able to strip the gears off the mainshaft without first removing it from the case. You really should fully assemble the main and countershafts and press them back in the case together with the H-D jig. If you don't have access to that or can't find a shop that has one and will press them in for you, be very careful as you press them in. Go slow and do everything you can to avoid hammering on the shafts!!
 
Thanks for the advice. I plan on doing just that. From the looks of it, only the mainshaft needs to be pressed in. The counter shaft just slips right into the gear.
I assume I would need to install the crankshaft and have the machine shop apply a bead of sealant around the engine halves before they press the 2 sides together right?
BTW>..
When I hammered the mainshaft out it literally took 2 very soft blows with a rubber mallet straight down. The mainshaft just fell right out. I am sure I didn't damage anything because it came out really easy.
 
Is it necessary to have that arbor press and the Buell Transmission remover/installer jig set up in order to reinstall the transmission?
 
Not to dig up an old thread, but I want to offer some advice to others based on my experience. I bought an 03 a few months back with over 40k miles and a trashed transmission to play around with. I got a used transmission off of Ebay and set out to swap it out. The old main shaft popped out easily with a plastic hammer, so I figured the new one would go in easily in the same way. Second tap, POW, the outer half of the snap ring groove broke off the left case.

I didn't cry, but it's closer than I've been in a long time. Luckily, I have access to a CNC mill and I milled off the remainder of the broken off material and added two 6/32 threaded holes around the outer race. Now the bearing is held against the seat by two aircraft grade stainless bolts with red Loctite on the threads and safety wire.

I think it will work out fine, but if I decide to sell it I'm pretty screwed on the resale value. Take your time and press that thing in by the inner race the way you're supposed to.
 
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