Maybe buy '09 1125CR: questions

[Cooter]

Yep. They are crush washers, not o-rings, my bad. It's been awhile since I had my CR but my advise is the same:black_eyed: You can get aluminum (or copper) crush washers from a Napa or Ace as well. They weren't made by Buell.

Good eye on the clutch weep! Better get it fixed before its a real issue:up:

 

[Mesozoic]

I cleaned the engine thoroughly last night so no oil residue existed at all. Went for a ride this evening and noticed that the oil is leaking heavily from the front of the righthand side clutch housing cover. This is the large casting that contains the clutch, water pump, etc. Is a new gasket the solution? I vaguely recall reading somewhere about a new revision of the cover as well (new for 2010 models, perhaps?).


I found a video of this exact leak:

 

[d_adams]

Assuming the case isn't cracked, yes, a new gasket should fix it. Unfortunately, to get to that gasket, you're in for a bit of a job. Personally, I'd pull the frame to do it since it only takes about 30 more minutes to remove it completely vs rotating it. The rear header needs to be pulled off, so that's why I suggest pulling the frame. It's just easier to work on with everything off and out of the way. Might as well do a valve check while you have it off, change the spark plugs, etc.

Your options are replace just the gasket, or do everything right and swap out the water pump seals, valve check and everything else while it's apart.

 

[Mesozoic]

Assuming the case isn't cracked, yes, a new gasket should fix it. Unfortunately, to get to that gasket, you're in for a bit of a job. Personally, I'd pull the frame to do it since it only takes about 30 more minutes to remove it completely vs rotating it. The rear header needs to be pulled off, so that's why I suggest pulling the frame. It's just easier to work on with everything off and out of the way. Might as well do a valve check while you have it off, change the spark plugs, etc.

Your options are replace just the gasket, or do everything right and swap out the water pump seals, valve check and everything else while it's apart.

I don't believe the case or clutch housing is cracked, but the gasket has certainly failed. I figure that at this point I should upgrade the exhaust as well. Valve adjustment and spark plugs are definitely going to happen. Just as well anyway since the bike is now at 17000 miles.

Is anyone familiar with the 2010 model year clutch housing replacement? The one with the oil sight glass or something. I understand there are multiple additional components that need to be replaced if replacing the clutch housing, but I'm thinking that it might be a good idea (although expensive).

 

[TPEHAK]

Just tighten the cover screws to spec with torque wrench. The screws are loosened. No need to replace the gasket.

 

[Mesozoic]

Just tighten the cover screws to spec with torque wrench. The screws are loosened. No need to replace the gasket.

I wish. That's the first thing I did. I cleaned the engine thoroughly, then torqued all of the bolts to 97 in-lbs per the service manual using the torque sequence indicated.

 

[d_adams]

Is anyone familiar with the 2010 model year clutch housing replacement? The one with the oil sight glass or something. I understand there are multiple additional components that need to be replaced if replacing the clutch housing, but I'm thinking that it might be a good idea (although expensive).

The sight glass is on the engine case itself, not the clutch cover. Not what would be a normal upgrade since both case halves need to be replaced typically. As I recall, if you do the 2010 waterpump upgrade, it's the cover, pump impeller, oil seal and coolant seal. There's a difference in the size of the hole that the pump seals sit in. Not sure if it's larger or smaller though.

 

[Mesozoic]

I'm a little confused by the nomenclature used to identify the clutch cover. There is the 8-bolt circular cover which is commonly referred to as the clutch cover (the one that typically weeps), but the service manual refers to the clutch cover as being the actual engine case cover that the "clutch cover" and water pump are bolted to.

Are these the parts I need to sort out my engine case cover, water pump, etc?

• R0022A.3AM Cover
• Q0428.3AM Water pump shaft
• CB0028.1AM Thrust Washer
• E0015.1AM Needle Bushing
• Q0430.3AM Oil Seal
• Q0431.3AM Rotary Seal
• Maybe reuse Q0427.1AM impeller?
• Tool B-49140 water pump timing pin

 

[d_adams]

I saw a couple of the EBR 1190 water pump covers with the impeller already installed on ebay earlier. Only difference is the color of the paint. I made a list of parts on the 1190 forum a couple of years ago, parts list is the same except the cover itself, which you have listed. The timing pin tool is not needed, just use a drill bit (or a correct sized pin) to align the timing marks.

 

[Mesozoic]

I saw a couple of the EBR 1190 water pump covers with the impeller already installed on ebay earlier. Only difference is the color of the paint. I made a list of parts on the 1190 forum a couple of years ago, parts list is the same except the cover itself, which you have listed. The timing pin tool is not needed, just use a drill bit (or a correct sized pin) to align the timing marks.

Dean, can you confirm the part numbers I need to obtain to repair and reinstate my engine?

Also, are there any forum member discounts for your exhaust systems?

 

[d_adams]

R0022A.3AM (Buell 1125 Clutch cover Assembly w/ needle)


Q0428.3AM Water pump shaft
CB0028.1AM Thrust Washer
E0015.1AM Needle Bushing (not needed if you buy the cover, it should already be installed)
Q0430.3AM Oil Seal
Q0431.3AM Rotary Seal

Yes to re-using the impeller unless it's damaged. They're cheap enough, I'd just get a new one.

An additional set of tools that may be "helpful" are in this list. I didn't use them myself, just a small press and the correct diameter hunk of aluminum.
WATER PUMP SEAL INSTALLER BASE TOOL (B-49141-4)
WATER PUMP OIL SEAL INSTALLER {B-49141-2)
WATER PUMP WATER SEAL INSTALLER (B-49141-3)


I don't have any discounts running at this time.

 

[Mesozoic]

Thanks Dean. I seem to have avoided having to do the entire clutch cover gasket replacement by smearing a small amount of Permatex Right Stuff into the interface (you can't even see it after I cleaned it up). After looking at the gasket itself I can see that the area in which it is leaking is one side of a cell that houses an oil passage or something. I reckon at some stage the cover really needed to be retorqued and nobody ever did that, so it blew. I have all tha parts on hand if it does ever resurface, but it seems to be holding up for now.

I've replaced the clutch slave cylinder using an Oberon part and that appears to be fixed now. I can't believe how powerful these bikes are, it's straight insane.

 

[d_adams]

The 1190 models have +40 more hp in stock form. I'm on my 4th one now but just took delivery of another 1125 a few weeks ago and am slowly rebuilding it. That one's getting a frame swap, all bearings being cleaned and greased, new wheels & tires, bodywork, etc.

 

[Mesozoic]

I can't imagine myself with another 40 hp. I can barely hang onto this thing at full boogie, but I am coming from riding an XB which is considerably slower in terms of acceleration. I've still not managed to reach the redline at full throttle on the 1125.

 

[d_adams]

Mine carries the front wheel off the ground through 4th. I'm just a bit shy of 250 lbs and have to get up over the airbox to keep it from going much higher than a foot above ground. Can't really hit it until it's above 7k rpm or it will flip since I can't ride wheelies to save my life.

 

[Mesozoic]

Mine carries the front wheel off the ground through 4th. I'm just a bit shy of 250 lbs and have to get up over the airbox to keep it from going much higher than a foot above ground. Can't really hit it until it's above 7k rpm or it will flip since I can't ride wheelies to save my life.

LOL, I'm in the same boat... I mountain bike a bit and wheelie for short periods of time to clear obstacles, but the 1125 is something entirely else... far more violent. I'm fairly certain, after having built and driven many powerful machines (mostly cars), that the 1125 will easily hit 170 mph without much effort at all... if you're willing.

 

[crash]

Wow. This is the issue I've been having. My leak doesn't even seem as bad as the one in the video... Found this thread searching for the timing pin, which I don't even need! Mr. Adams, sir, as usual, you rock!

 

[34nineteen]

I mountain bike a bit.

What bike do you have?

 

[Mesozoic]

What bike do you have?

Too many bikes. For regular during-the-week exercise I use a Commencal Meta AM cromo hardtail. Occasionally during my mid-week loop and usually over the weekend I'll ride my Norco Fluid LT. If I hit the park for some lift-assisted DH or have a fire road that makes it easier to climb I'll rock my Devinci Ollie.

Another mountain biker? My best days are MTB ride in the AM, followed by Buelling it afterwards.

 

[34nineteen]

Too many bikes. For regular during-the-week exercise I use a Commencal Meta AM cromo hardtail. Occasionally during my mid-week loop and usually over the weekend I'll ride my Norco Fluid LT. If I hit the park for some lift-assisted DH or have a fire road that makes it easier to climb I'll rock my Devinci Ollie.

Another mountain biker? My best days are MTB ride in the AM, followed by Buelling it afterwards.

I ride a Pivot 429 Trail and have an old steel single speed I've had forever... running 34:19.