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My first Buell big problems pls help

Buellxb Forum

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Barrett said:
Sir: Wilmington, for a multitude of reasons, is a very difficult environment for motorcycles, let alone an air-cooled V-twin Buell. i would suspect that lurking beneath these initial problems you've outlined, are several more requiring immediate attention. not to impune your judgment, but IMO it was a poor choice for your first street-duty motorcycle, and quite possibly was substantially misrepresented by the seller. from your description you "took a quick test ride" and then "a short ride up the street"...and now it's all this.
NC new and used vehicle consumer protection laws specifically address and cover what you've just experienced.
immediately contact the seller....describe the known defects....quote NC law if necessary...and demand to return it for full immediate refund. clearly, both this bike and its readily apparent problems are not for you. resolve this, then buy something else. what that might be is entirely dependent on your tastes and riding intentions.
Click to expand...

The plane: A B-25 Mitchell aka "Barrett"
The bombs : 1 wisdom, 1 knowledge, 1 experience (also 1 for good looks, but its out of frame in this photo)

North_America_Mitchell_MkIII_ExCC.jpg
 
Barrett said:
Sir: Wilmington, for a multitude of reasons, is a very difficult environment for motorcycles, let alone an air-cooled V-twin Buell. i would suspect that lurking beneath these initial problems you've outlined, are several more requiring immediate attention. not to impune your judgment, but IMO it was a poor choice for your first street-duty motorcycle, and quite possibly was substantially misrepresented by the seller. from your description you "took a quick test ride" and then "a short ride up the street"...and now it's all this.
NC new and used vehicle consumer protection laws specifically address and cover what you've just experienced.
immediately contact the seller....describe the known defects....quote NC law if necessary...and demand to return it for full immediate refund. clearly, both this bike and its readily apparent problems are not for you. resolve this, then buy something else. what that might be is entirely dependent on your tastes and riding intentions.
Click to expand...

I think I'd agree with this sentiment.

Lot's to consider - choices to be made. Do what's gonna be best in the long-term.

I bought my Buell knowing I'd have to do some work on it and keep working on it to keep it rolling. Just the nature of the beast.

That said, I do intend to get a second bike, when the kids start leaving the house, so I can preserve the Buell.
 
Hey gang, thanks again for the help, thought I’d update y’all, after a couple weeks of studying videos of guys taking the xb apart I’ve decided to do the work myself. Depending on the condition of the top end I’m seriously considering adding a big bore kit made by Hammer Performance https://www.1250kits.com/883conversions.shtml
Who knows tho I may pull my cylinders and they could be in great shape but I have a feeling that’s hiiighly unlikely. Another route I’m considering is sending them off to Zippers Performance Products to have them re-honed and cleaned up. I’m currently (as in today) going to diagnose why she won’t turn over, starting with the spark plugs. The fuel pump IS priming but don’t know if maybe it’s gunked up or something. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0Iv2pk56iP-px-IP6jNlS6psA
(Let me know if that link doesn’t work I’ve had a time of it trying to upload on this platform) The engine oil light is on when attempting to start and correct me if I’m wrong but I was reading that it needs oil pressure to turn off and because the bike isn’t running there is no pressure? Assuming I’ve got a spark and it’s not the spark plugs what should I address next? Fuel pump? Also, I’ve seen several guys remove the engine by keeping it attached to the swing arm and sliding it out rather than pulling the entire engine separately which I like because it would allow me to rotate the tire to get to top dead compression instead of opening up the crank case plus it helps stabilize it, does anyone know of a video that shows this disassembly in detail or can someone show me where in the service manual it details this? Thanks again all, I’m super excited to tackle this project, it’s way over my head but I’m a quick learner and believe if I’m going to ride it I should know how it works, plus there’s the satisfaction of knowing I rebuilt my very own bike! Cheers,
-Fielding
 
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Oh also, I’d really like to get a feel for the bike before I commit to putting on a big bore, for all I know the 984cc is scary enough and all I can handle, is there some sort of way to temporarily plug the oil leak so I can run her, like a jb weld or some high temp silicone or something? Since I’m going to rebuild her anyway I was wondering if this cheap (likely I’ll advised) fix would do more damage or wold be ok for zipping around town. I’ve got to insure and register her first which will take some time since I have to fix the turn signal relay and rear break light relay. The bike came with no front turn signals so can someone point me to the wiring diagram so that I can attach some on the front? I ordered a kool led strip signals and brake light all in one for the rear from a guy who custom makes them with his 3D printer off eBay so going to install that as well. Basically I’m going to replace everything on this bike and black it out. Where do y’all find the best aftermarket parts for these? Revzilla? Motosport? CycleGear? Was hoping to find some more custom parts, like an LED upgraded headlight setup, and custom gauges. Thanks again
 
Ok, take a breath. You're all over the place so it's really hard to get a grip on what the heck you are saying.

1) "Turning over" means 'cranking' (battery), and "starting" means 'running' (fuel/spark). Very different systems to diagnose.
2) Yes, you should replace your spark plugs. Starting it repeatedly and not riding it will certainly foul your plugs fast on a Buell. The Buell Rule is if you start it, RIDE it. You won't be riding this one soon, so DON'T START IT. See #7
3) You don't need a wiring diagram to put on front signals the wires are behind the windscreen, the diagram is in the link I already gave you. Strike one for not clicking it. RTFM. BUT. Why would you even consider buying fancy black parts for a bike that doesn't even RUN??
4) Engine removal instructions are in the manual. In the link I already gave you. Strike one for not clicking it. RTFM.
5) If you are able to remove the engine yourself, the least of your worries is how to spin it over. You will disassembling it anyway, why dick with the cumbersome rear wheel hanging on it? It is one large bolt to remove it (and a pinch bolt). Same for the swing arm.
6) FIX IT. FIRST. We will help... BUT, there are several things you need to be familiar with that are in the link I already gave you. Strike one for not clicking it. RTFM
7) In your video it looks like the head bolts are loose or stripped letting blow-by creep past the cylinder base gasket. Not good, but also not catastrophic. IMO NO, don't ride it. Every power stroke is trying to lift the cylinder out of the case on compromised bolts. If they are just loose now, they will strip out of the case if they are ignored.
8) Yes the oil pressure light is on with the engine not running. There is no oil pressure in an engine that is not running. Thats why the light is on. No oil pressure. It's in the link I already gave you. Strike one for not clicking it. RTFM
9) NO, I would not JB weld a cylinder to a case. It won't hold the cylinder, it won't seal the blow by, and it will be a nightmare to remove.
10) Its 'brakes'. If your brakes break, fix the brakes. Then take a break.

If you want to ride this Buell, you have 2 options:
1) Get it started and ride it until it breaks. That will be soon.
2) Fix it. IMO, that means rotating the engine and re-torquing down the head bolts at the least. Most likely you will be removing the engine, removing the cylinders, and repairing a stripped case.

Depending on what you find, and how personally deal with the dreaded 'might-as-wells', that can be an easy job, or a never ending saga of time and money. Personally, I love working on bikes and would do the minimum to repair it properly, meaning repair it, NOT modify it with unnecessary and expensive engine parts.
You could find tight head bolts, (remove the cylinders and replace the base gasket).
or
You could find loose bolts and good threads, (remove the cylinders and replace the base gasket)
or
You could find stripped head bolts, (remove the cylinders, repair the threads, and replace the base gasket).
or
You could find a trashed engine, (split the case and repair, or buy another one).
None of those possibilities need a stroker kit, transmission, chroming, turbo, or black turn signals.

Good luck buddy:eagerness:, if you choose to take this project on there are plenty of sources for good information, but I won't be typing a step-by-step copy of the manual I already gave you. Let us know what you choose:angel:
 
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Damn, well said Boss.

Fielding - there are a lot of tremendously helpful people on this forum, but there is a limit to our collective patience. A huge part of learning how to fix your bike (or most things in life for that matter) is taking the time to study and let the knowledge sink in. We all were in your newb shoes at some time in the past, and your enthusiasm is to be cheered. But you gotta know your limits.

RTFM as Cooter so eloquently stated. There are probably already a dozen threads posted for each of the questions you posed, so spend the time reading. This forum is not a shortcut Google for all the questions that pop into your head.
 
The help is much appreciated, and I shall certainly RTFM. Took the spark plugs out and the spark plug wire that is connected to the problem cylinder seems to be shot. I forgot to take a picture of it but both ends were rusty. They were also two different spark plugs and, haha, before I ask I shall read up on why one had washers and the other didn’t. I saw in a video description how the space needs to be measured but I’ll have to read up on that. I tested both spark plugs with the good wire and both gave a spark but won’t know if that’s the issue I suppose until I get the new wires and plugs. They were certainly covered in black gunk and carbon, which I did read about and they both appear to be carbon-fouled and/or oil-fouled which makes sense considering the air filter was filthy and there’s a big oil leak: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0zEkupaa1MmHzxMvogijKy7BA
hopefully the video uploads. Looking like I’m going to start taking her apart this week and see just how bad it is rather than try to patch the leak and ride...after I RTFM of course. Again thanks for your help I know I’m a bit much haha but I’m just excited and ready to learn and start this new found passion, I shall remember to slow down and take it step by step and cross all my Ts and dot all my Is before getting carried away. Cheers,
-Fielding
 
giphy.gif
 
Cooter said:
And felt mean. Sorry bro:love_heart:
Click to expand...

Ha! Its just my reality. RedBuell (tm) is almost back together. woot woot!

Hopefully my S1 cases will be on their way back from Hammer to me.

Meth bike is just meth bike (but with new pretty black parts). mike lowary is my drug dealer. Damn him.
 
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Hey gang, so it’s looking like I’m going to be ordering a 1050 kit from Hammer Performance. The issues with the spark plugs seem to be that the previous owner stripped the spark plug holes by possibly forcing them on without the threads lining up or maybe wrong size spark plug, who knows, could have happened when I removed them because there was so much gunk and buildup on the threads. Anyway I’ve RTFM (had a girlfriend who works at local university professionally print and make a booklet for $20!) and I can’t seem to find where it explains purging the fuel when the bike won’t run. Anyone know where I can find this info or can explain the process to me? Plan is to take old heads off myself and prep the bike to save a little cash and take it to my local shop for the install and exhaust and tune/dyno. So correct me if I’m wrong but I’m going to purge fluids, remove frame, and rotate engine, removing top end. Also, would most say the Buelltooth is the way to go? Thanks,
Fielding
 
Hi Barrett, thanks for the reply but my engine won’t run (no spark plugs) so I can’t proceed with step 5, any way to bypass this?
 
When you disconnect the fuel line from the rail as Barrett described, it will “purge” itself.

I would highly recommend taking the extra steps to pull the frame off the engine to make removing/installing the heads much easier as well as the 1050 kit. I’d also recommend spending a little extra to get hammer to do a “competition valve job” especially if your motor has a fair amount of miles on it.
 
Awesome, thanks 34nineteen. Yea I plan on removing the frame just waiting on my rear stand to arrive. Thanks for the heads up on the competition valve job, will for sure enquire about it since the bike has almost 30k miles
 
For Sale:
Buell project. Been sitting for years, lots of new parts, 1050 kit, no time to finish. My loss your gain, don't low-ball me, I know what I have!




I'm here to help, I hope you prove me wrong:black_eyed:
 
I use a solid steel round bar supported by a jack stand on either side. It’s pretty stable and you can adjust the height with the jackstands.

I also use a curated selection of the finest 2x4’s, 1x4 and other smaller flat wood trim pieces under the motor (with the muffler and mounts removed) along with a Craftsman motorcycle jack. The first time setting it up is a bit tricky, but once you get it figured out, it’s pretty easy.

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