Need help ordering parts for fork rebuild

[snrusnak]

A guy down the road is going to rebuild my forks and asked that I bring him the parts. He will provide the fork oil. I wanted to ask you all if you could verify that I have the correct parts ready to order. He told me to get the fork seals, dust covers, bushings (if I want), and if I can the clips.

The way I understand it is I need the following parts:

21 slide bushing
22 guide bushing
24 oil seal
25 oil seal stopping ring (I think this is the clip he mentioned)
26 dust seal

Confirm/deny please!? LOL

My bike is an 05 firebolt so I think I need 43mm...

 

[dave_xb12r]

I think you only need

24 oil seal
25 oil seal stopping ring (I think this is the clip he mentioned)
26 dust seal

 

[konarider94]

you wont need item 25 they come out very easily and shouldnt get damaged. everything else looks good. asb has the parts in stock and ready to go i bet. yes you have 43mm forks.

 

[konarider94]

dave

he doesnt need the bushings but they are so cheap and easy to change while you have it apart its dumb not to change them.

 

[snrusnak]

Thanks guys, yeah he said if the bushings are cheap to get them, and they seem cheap enough. He also said if the clips are cheap to get them, so I'll see what they cost... Thanks for the help!

 

[dave_xb12r]

you wont need item 25 they come out very easily and shouldnt get damaged.

You're right. I thought there were 2 oils seals and one dust seal that need to be replaced though.

he doesnt need the bushings but they are so cheap and easy to change while you have it apart its dumb not to change them.

Meh... you can replace everything if you want. I don't consider it to be a wearable part. But if it makes you feel good, go ahead.

 

[anrkizm95]

but they are so cheap and easy to change while you have it apart

[up]

 

[snrusnak]

I just went on ASB to order the parts and also found the o ring kit and copper crush washer. I assume these aren't necessary unless damaged, as no one told me I need them?

Also, I know this is unrelated but I saw the ignition lock removal torx tool on ASB as well and was wondering if anyone knows if this specific tool is necessary or if a regular torx bit would work.

Thanks for all the help, I'm trying to order everything today as I'm leaving town tomorrow, then when I get back all the parts will hopefully be here.

 

[dave_xb12r]

Also, I know this is unrelated but I saw the ignition lock removal torx tool on ASB as well and was wondering if anyone knows if this specific tool is necessary or if a regular torx bit would work.

I think it's a T40 security torx

 

[snrusnak]

"security" means it has the little bump in the center right? So my "regular" ones wouldn't work....? I'll just order it then as it's only a few bucks.

 

[dave_xb12r]

Yeah, at least you KNOW it will fit.

 

[anrkizm95]

"security" means it has the little bump in the center right?

yep

 

[konarider94]

Meh... you can replace everything if you want. I don't consider it to be a wearable part. But if it makes you feel good, go ahead.

it is a wearable part, they are coated with teflon and if you let them go for too long they will scratch the slider or just increase the friction and slow down the response of your suspension. see the below image for a picture of a worn bushing. this is exactly what mine looked like when i rebuilt my forks.

 

[konarider94]

I just went on ASB to order the parts and also found the o ring kit and copper crush washer.  I assume these aren't necessary unless damaged, as no one told me I need them?

thats only if you plan to remove the damper rod assembly. to change the seals and bushing the damper rod assembly does not need to be removed. this is the allen bolt in the bottom of the fork leg. if you remove this bolt you will want to replace the copper washer. the o ring kit would be used to rebuild the damper rod assembly i think. i chose not to do this.

the o rings might be for the preload adjuster and top cap but im not sure. my o rings seemed to be in good condition.

 

[snrusnak]

Ok thanks for all the help guys! I'm ordering all the necessary parts, and also ordering the ignition tool, updated kickstand pin, and the 2010 model's factory RSS! All under $100

 

[snrusnak]

Yeah my forks only have about 8,000 miles on them but I'm just going to replace the bushing because they are cheap and I might as well do it...same with those clips, they are only $2/ea from HD.

HD prices for the fork parts are identical to ASB prices BTW if you are wondering, but I'm going to order all the parts I can from ASB in a few hours because I want to get the torx tool as well, plus I like supporting them, they are a great company!

 

[snrusnak]

A second thanks for all the help, I just ordered everything from ASB and HD and it was all less than $90 (2010 factory RSS, ignition tool, updated kickstand pin, and all the fork parts).

Can't wait to get it all installed and get the bike back together better than ever!

 

[snrusnak]

Parts came in this week from ASB and I got a call today from HD and the rest of them are in there as well. Picking them up today! Fork rebuild *should* be next week assuming I get it apart this weekend (shouldn't take but a few hours I assume)....and powder coating the parts should happen probably the week after next. Then it'll all go back together the next free weekend I have, I'll be sure to post pictures! Can't wait to have the bike looking great and get rid of the bubbled/corroded paint, get leak free forks, and new brake pads that aren't oil soaked on the bike; the bikes been in this shape since I've bought it and the brakes don't work when they are soaked with fork oil lol.

 

[snrusnak]

Well, some progress this morning, and some bad news. I found out while taking everything apart that my bike was dropped by the previous owner and he lied about it. He told me the fairing bracket was broken from someone opening a car door into it. Seemed reasonable as the bar wasn't bent, fairing not broken, or anything like that. Here's what it looked like:

Well as I took things apart I also found this under the grip:

Then decided to peek under the frame puck so I peeled the corner back and saw this:

It's pretty evident it was dropped, but at least it is minor. I already found a new fairing bracket on craigslist last week for $35 (woohoo!), and don't know if I'll even replace the throttle piece, and not worried about the frame as it's hidden, but it's just the point...

So here's where I currently am at:

I took the bolts out of the bars but cant get them out, any tips?

Also I don't have anything to turn the axle to loosen it, but found a 13/16 (3/8") spark plug socket fits decently reversed. Tried running the 3/8" ratchet extension through the hollow axle to turn the socket from the other side but was too tight and even with a breaker bar I just got a lot of torsional twist in the extension... So any tips?

I think those are the only two things I'm stuck on...

 

[snrusnak]

Got the bars out using a piece of 2x4 and hammer gently tapped them out. Found out that underneath the master cylinder the throttle side bar indeed WAS bent and bent back, had a bulge/crease in it. It was also a PITA to get out of the triple tree due to the bulge but I got it out and the triple tree is fine, so I just need a new bar.

So, here's where I'm now at:

I have all the pinch bolts loosened, and actually got the axle loosened using the spark plug socket (apparently it's reverse threaded....and even tells you that on the fork DOH!). I just need to buy some allen sockets to get the caliper off and the pinch bolt loose on the steering head (will need the set to retorque all of them anyway, as I can't torque them properly with the wrenches). So hopefully I can get the tools tomorrow and finish getting it dismantled.

Can someone elaborate on how to take apart the triple trees? I've never done that. Do I just takethe bolt on top out then pull the bearings out and that's it?

Thanks for any help!

Here's the new fairing bracket I bought on the cheap (the idiot drilled a hole in it where it mounts but I don't think it'll effect anything, and you won't see it so I didn't care since it was really cheap):

Last question, does this plate just pry off the triple tree? Also, is it just smooth underneath it? I want to remove it when I get it powder coated.