New brake pads and such, still pulsing

[Loki]

I just installed new brake pads, rebled the lines, scuff pad the rotor, torqued everything down (even the rotor again) to proper specs.
Brake in process was
7x 40mph, medium braking to ~0-10mph
5-10x 50-70mph. hard braking to stop
10 mins cool off with cursing

And I STILL have a plusing front end! Though it is a lot less it is still enough for me to notice! Why are Buells doomed to always pulse on the front!?

Someone please help me, Thats one thing that drives me insane. Do I just need to give it more time?

For anyone who doesnt remember I have the EBR rotor

I see no problem with the rotor visually, and I checked to see if it was true and the rotor did not seem to be warped. The pulsing seems to be on one part of the wheel, should I start by buying another mounting kit?

 

[Loki]

No one has any ideas?

I can only think that maybe the mounting hardware got to much brake dust inbetween itself and pushed the rotor out some?

 

[Alien]

Do a proper deglaze of the rotor. That's all I can think of.

 

[konarider94]

you arent supposed to stop when doing the bed in procedure until after the cool down. even when doing the cool down you arent supposed to stop.

 

[wrnglrx]

When I had the pulsating rotor problem. I ordered new hardware and rotor. After that all the problems went away and have never come back since. Send EBR a messege and see if they have any other suggestions about it.

 

[konarider94]

Read through this
http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/cat/brake-pads/post/Bed-in

In particular "Something critical to notice during the procedure...I never, ever come to a complete stop with my foot on the brake pedal! That's a big no-no, but happens all too easily when you're distracted or don't pay close attention."

 

[03Firebolt9R]

Though you visually inspected the rotor, I bet it is warped. Do you have the original rotor? If so, put that one back on and see if you are still pulsing.

 

[Loki]

I never heard about it being a problem actually stopping when you are bedding your brake pads. Unless you stop for a certain length of time.

And like I said in the first post, the rotor isnt wrapped. The original rotor was visually wrapped. Im just going to clean the hardware, scuff-light sand the rotor and go from there. It sucks cause this just started earlier this year.

If I were to buy a new rotor would I have to do anything with the brake pads? I just sand the top a little right?

 

[03Firebolt9R]

You won't be able to identify a difference of .003 visually. It doesn't take much. I would bet that if you did get a new rotor, the pulsing would be gone. **** luck Loki and how is the Moose running?

 

[03Firebolt9R]

Here's another thought, did you line up the dot on the rotor nearest the valve stem?

 

[konarider94]

I never heard about it being a problem actually stopping when you are bedding your brake pads. Unless you stop for a certain length of time.

Your brakes are hot enough where you are depositing a layer of brake pad material on to the rotor. As you are creating a transfer layer if you come to a complete stop you can create uneven deposits.

"More concerning however, is that if you don't intentionally establish a good transfer layer on your rotors, you may do it accidentally when you really heat the brakes up for the first time through aggressive driving. Then you run the risk of getting uneven pad deposits on your rotors, which means the dreaded thud-thud-thud vibrations when you step on the brakes. In the worst case scenario, your rotors may not even be recoverable, which means you'll need to buy new ones. That's always a fun scene at the dealership, when they tell you need new front and rear pads and rotors, and by the way, that will be $1,000 please."

You won't be able to identify a difference of .003 visually. It doesn't take much.

I agree you cant see that and it doesnt take much but the variations are much smaller. Probably in the .0003-.001 range

Another source about bed in procedure and transfer layers in case you think the first link I provided is ********.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-s...y-definitions-and-procedures/brake-pad-bed-in
"Let's say that again, just so there is no misunderstanding. Uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
It only takes a small amount of thickness variation, or TV, in the transfer layer (we're only talking a few ten thousandths of an inch here) to initiate brake vibration. While the impact of an uneven transfer layer is almost imperceptible at first, as the pad starts riding the high and low spots, more and more TV will be naturally generated until the vibration is much more evident. With prolonged exposure, the high spots can become hot spots and can actually change the metallurgy of the rotor in those areas, creating “hard” spots in the rotor face that are virtually impossible to remove."

 

[Loki]

Yeah, the when I first put the rotor on I know I didnt do a brake in properly. That probably ruined it first.

OK So if I buy a new rotor will I need to buy new pad again? Would I just be able to do a proper be d in like the videos and be good with everything? I dont want to buy new pads, new rotor, new mounting hardware. Esp since I just bought new front and rear pads. (Havent installed the rear)

Could I just ride the brake for a few miles and then do a cool down instead?


BTW The moose is doing good, just trying to rob my pocket like the bike is. I have a gf, my dirt bike, motorcycle, and car need to understand that not all four of them can deep into my pockets at once!

 

[konarider94]

If anything Id try a proper bed in procedure again, not sure if id scotch-brite it before or not. I wouldnt try riding the brakes while cruising down the road. I really dont know how to fix uneven deposits once they occur.