New Buell for me.

[Cooter]

Pics or it didn't:black_eyed:

Really glad you are making progress, were you able to roll back the odometer and hide the salvage title?:applause:

 

[34nineteen]

Pics or it didn't:black_eyed:

Really glad you are making progress, were you able to roll back the odometer and hide the salvage title?:applause:

A. Its not a "salvage title", its a "C Box" title aka "not actual mileage ODOMETER DISCREPANCY"
B. Do you know how long it took with the bike in reverse to get it to this point? :black_eyed:

 

[34nineteen]

This showed up today. It’s from the “J.L. Signature Series”. It even came with a note addressed to me:

Aaron,
Don’t be an idiot.
-John

I don’t know about you, but that changed my life. Now whenever I’m about to do something, I think “Would an idiot do that?” And if they would, I do not do that thing (usually).

 

[Cooter]

Awwwww. You have a secret admirer :love_heart:

 

[34nineteen]

 

[Endopotential]

A gift battery from John?!?

That thing is going to be so badass it'll add 25HP to your bike, and charge all nearby bikes automatically just due to its innate awesomeness.

 

[upaero]

I think it’s just spark knock. I read up a lot about it and it’s sounds the most reasonable. The fuel pump is probably bad, with low pressure, causing a lean mixture and making it spark knock. I also read on the Buelltooth site, that a weak mixture can be remedied with a race map. The website says they will give a race tune if I buy a Buelltooth. Are there any programs better than Buell Tooth? I mean, if I put a better muffler on won’t that even things out anyway?

You did NOT read on the Buelltooth site that a mechanical problem can be remedied with a "map". On the contrary actually.

 

[34nineteen]

Sorry about that. You are correct. I was either being sarcastic or a *******. Likely both.

A new fuel map is not a solution for a mechanical problem.


But I just ordered a new Buelltooth and the website told me personally that I am awesome, so it must be true!

 

[34nineteen]

Ok, getting close to firing this turkey up. Here’s what’s left to do:

Set static timing
Add oil
Add primary fluid
Tighten exhaust clamp
Install turn signals

I’m getting ready to run down to the auto parts store for some cheap oil and some atf to put in the primary just to clean any residual crap that may be floating around. I did pull the oil filter and check valve to make sure there was no junk hiding in there.

 

[njloco]

Do you remember when most would put a quart of atf in with the new oil whenever one did an oil change ?

 

[Outlaw]

I remember some old timers putting a qt of ATF in right before an oil change and then let it run for 10 minutes. They say it cleaned it up. I worried about what it loosend up.

 

[Barrett]

More tried-and-proven unassailable "geezer" formulas for longevity and performance:
1-add 1 quart of either diesel fuel or kerosene to the crankcase the day prior to anticipated oil change. removes sludge and frees up the lifters.
2-"seat" new piston rings and "scuff up" cylinder walls by sprinkling 1/2 can of either Bonami or Comet scouring cleaner into the air intake assembly, at high idle. quickly "beds in" the top end.
3-run non-detergent straight SAE-30 in everything. cuts down on oil inventory.
4-remove all intake manifold heating parephernalia from Street and Race 426 Hemis. enhances breathing.
5-dial out 4 degrees of initial timing on all Sunbeam Tigers and large-block 427/428 AC cobras. they hook up better and less wheel spin "when layin' them on the mat."
6-if and when your neighbor's daughter asks for help tidying up her room...be a gentleman and lend the kid a hand.

 

[34nineteen]

You are a wise Buell Jedi master, Barrett.

I’m just wanting the ATF to get whatever crud may be in the trans in suspension and then just flush it out. Dan at NRHS recommended running Type F ATF in the transmission and I like the idea due to the detergent in it. I’m likely going to dump it after a ride or two and go to Formula +.

The motor is just regular oil for the first couple hundred miles or whatever the Hammer break in instructions call for.

Overkill? Probably.

 

[34nineteen]

Ok, getting close to firing this turkey up. Here’s what’s left to do:

Set static timing - check
Add oil- check
Add primary fluid - check
Tighten exhaust clamp - check
Install turn signals

So, she starts and runs. I'm doing some heat cycles on it per the Hammer instructions to help insure the rings are bedded in correctly. Probably not necessary, but not going to hurt either.

I was getting ready to install the belt tensioner pulley and the bearings seem a bit dodgy. I'll order a new set of bearings this week and get it on the road!

 

[RidetheLightning]

Which bearings are you looking at? I was thinking of getting a set to replace mine when I get new tires this year, but couldn't find consistent reviews for guidance.

 

[34nineteen]

Which bearings are you looking at? I was thinking of getting a set to replace mine when I get new tires this year, but couldn't find consistent reviews for guidance.

I'm looking for SKF bearings if I can find them. Thats the brand Twin is selling. 6203-2RSH. They should be able to be sourced in the US... however if push comes to shove, Twin sells them for about $10 USD each.

 

[mike lowary]

https://www.google.com/amp/s/brocks...ring-cb-6203-2rs-grom-monkey-carrier-bearing/

 

[34nineteen]

https://www.google.com/amp/s/brocks...ring-cb-6203-2rs-grom-monkey-carrier-bearing/

You so cray-cray.

 

[mike lowary]

You so cray-cray.

Totally worth it

 

[34nineteen]

I performed a seance last night and consulted with the all knowing Oracle of Buell, lunatic fringe.

After he was done with the "WTF" and "are you really that dumb?" he provided enlightenment and knowledge to my quandry, and now SKF bearings are en-route to me.


All hail the mighty LF!