The roach bike looks so much cleaner with a chrome pep boys headlight, you just gotta remove the right side scoop and those ugly tiny tabs no one would ever see!
Quit Methin around, man!
Quit Methin around, man!
New Buell for me.
- Thread starter 34nineteen
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Wow man. The saga continues.
mike lowary
Well-known member
You are bringing a “basket case buell” back to life. Anything I can do to help this project please let me know. Rebuilding a Buell is bucket list.
Some pics from this weekend. I got sidetracked in the process and this is all I have.
The problem. WTF? Don't do drugs people. Just don't. The first step is acknowledging you have a problem.
Looking at the bolt, it looks like a Buell original... but from where?
I don't remember this sleeve being in the original kickstand setup.
Anyways its gone. You need a 1/2 drill bit to open the threaded part up. The trick is slow drill speeds and lots of stops to oil. It goes fast and saves the bit. I wound up putting the kickstand in a vise later on to finish this.
The problem. WTF? Don't do drugs people. Just don't. The first step is acknowledging you have a problem.
Looking at the bolt, it looks like a Buell original... but from where?
I don't remember this sleeve being in the original kickstand setup.
Anyways its gone. You need a 1/2 drill bit to open the threaded part up. The trick is slow drill speeds and lots of stops to oil. It goes fast and saves the bit. I wound up putting the kickstand in a vise later on to finish this.
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Here are some stolen pics I found on here using the search function to show what is next.
The replacement pin, from St. Paul HD. Its about $13 and replacing the stock bolt (that can break) with this pin can save you some $$$ from much more expensive parts (that are much harder to find) when the original bolt breaks and the bike falls over.
L0174.4A8 & N0425.02A8 Genuine Buell Sidestand Pivot Pin (Kickstand)
This is how the pin fits to the kickstand. On the last couple XB's I did, I had to take some material off the back (red arrow) to get the groove to fit past the edge. I used an angle grinder with a 240 flap wheel to make short work of the mm or so that needed to be shaved off.
this pic is from our friend midway with the green Firebolt. I think he owes me a favor anyway.
The replacement pin, from St. Paul HD. Its about $13 and replacing the stock bolt (that can break) with this pin can save you some $$$ from much more expensive parts (that are much harder to find) when the original bolt breaks and the bike falls over.
L0174.4A8 & N0425.02A8 Genuine Buell Sidestand Pivot Pin (Kickstand)
This is how the pin fits to the kickstand. On the last couple XB's I did, I had to take some material off the back (red arrow) to get the groove to fit past the edge. I used an angle grinder with a 240 flap wheel to make short work of the mm or so that needed to be shaved off.
this pic is from our friend midway with the green Firebolt. I think he owes me a favor anyway.
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Also, I finally removed the swingarm. Regardless of whatever path I go down for an engine, the swingarm needs to come off.
Easy peasy, remove the clips to disconnect the oil lines, remove the rear wheel and belt, then loosen the pinch bolt, and now this. The pinch bolt is accessed from the top (left pointing arrow)
Hmm, I don't have a 7/8" allen key or socket... what to do?
This is the 9/16" grade 8 bolt and nuts I referred to earlier. The threads were cleaned and coated with red locktite, and jammed against each other until they were inline with each other. Looking back, I would have bought a longer 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" bolt, but this did work out well. A long box end 13/16" wrench and the first couple counter clockwise turns were easy.
Then it jammed up, due to corrosion. I sprayed some PB blaster into the gaps, tightened the bolt back up, then sprayed some more in the other end. You will see the swingarm slide from left to right as you do this. I let it sit for about 30 minutes to soak in, then tried again. Eventually it gave up, and came out. Luckily, it spared the bearings and they still rotate easily and smoothly.
My rear pivot bolt had some serious corrosion built up on it and didnt want to come out without a fight.
Easy peasy, remove the clips to disconnect the oil lines, remove the rear wheel and belt, then loosen the pinch bolt, and now this. The pinch bolt is accessed from the top (left pointing arrow)
Hmm, I don't have a 7/8" allen key or socket... what to do?
This is the 9/16" grade 8 bolt and nuts I referred to earlier. The threads were cleaned and coated with red locktite, and jammed against each other until they were inline with each other. Looking back, I would have bought a longer 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" bolt, but this did work out well. A long box end 13/16" wrench and the first couple counter clockwise turns were easy.
Then it jammed up, due to corrosion. I sprayed some PB blaster into the gaps, tightened the bolt back up, then sprayed some more in the other end. You will see the swingarm slide from left to right as you do this. I let it sit for about 30 minutes to soak in, then tried again. Eventually it gave up, and came out. Luckily, it spared the bearings and they still rotate easily and smoothly.
My rear pivot bolt had some serious corrosion built up on it and didnt want to come out without a fight.
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The main hiccup is waiting to find out from a local shop if they can/will install new wrist pin bushings without me having to split the cases. If this can happen, I will just put my stock 1200 pistons/cylinders on it and have the heads sent out for a "competition valve job".
If I have to split the cases, the insanity begins. You're gonna be on board for this as you already know.
My engine parts should be arriving for my S1 sometime this week, so the XB will have to take a back seat while I put the S1 back together.
When I started the S1 project, I started pulling it apart in the middle of my garage. So, its now in the way for the XB project. Once I get the S1 back together, I can move it off to the side and make a better work area for the XB. Right now, I'm just getting little projects out of way on the XB until the S1 motor parts arrive.
Even though they are little things, thats still a lot of progress, good job man:angel: I got my fingers crossed you can get the top end back together without too much issue.
You know what it is... its that damn mike lowery guy!!!! He is going to make me spend $10,000 on the motor.
First, its "just replace the crank.. the 2008+ up models are much stronger and lighter!"
Then its, "well since you had to split the case, you should just get the cases bored for a 90in kit."
Then he's like "well, if you're going to do all that, you may as well as get some good headwork done!"
He's a troublemaker, and I don't like it... not at all. Kind of like Moms and Radiohead.
Seriously though, later this week, I will hopefully have a clear path on whether the motor will be a cheap fix or not. Or if I have to take the mike lowery path down the slippery slope of engine mods.
First, its "just replace the crank.. the 2008+ up models are much stronger and lighter!"
Then its, "well since you had to split the case, you should just get the cases bored for a 90in kit."
Then he's like "well, if you're going to do all that, you may as well as get some good headwork done!"
He's a troublemaker, and I don't like it... not at all. Kind of like Moms and Radiohead.
Seriously though, later this week, I will hopefully have a clear path on whether the motor will be a cheap fix or not. Or if I have to take the mike lowery path down the slippery slope of engine mods.
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mike lowary
Well-known member
I know a guy.... :black_eyed:
You're only gonna make 114HP with his hand-me-downs
You should shave off all the mounting tabs to save weight too!
You should shave off all the mounting tabs to save weight too!
You’re only jealous because he made a cigarette lighter for my truck out of magnesium!
Ok, so it looks like I am going to get sidetracked by my S1 project and will have the split the cases on that. I really don’t have enough room in my garage for two disassembled Buells, so this is going to go on the back burner for a bit.
Last night I put the bike back together “finger tight”. This way I know where all the parts and fasteners are and where they go. Even though I had them all sorted in boxes and baggies, this is much easier to work with.
Last night I put the bike back together “finger tight”. This way I know where all the parts and fasteners are and where they go. Even though I had them all sorted in boxes and baggies, this is much easier to work with.
I think bikes look so good without a headlight. Does that make me weirder than usual?
That is not what makes you weirder than usual. Not liking a headlight on a motorcycle is probably more of a symptom. But, another piece of the puzzle falls into place.
But if that’s the look you are going for, I have a bunch of parts you can have.
Toggle switch mod for ignition
Retro performance headlight housing with krypton/palladium ion magno-reflector lighting element assembly.
Heavy duty thick aluminum grips and pegs for when you can be bothered to use the kickstand.
High bypass oil cooler scoop
Hyper light weight racing pulley cover made from some high tech co-polymer of bonded hydrocarbons.
Racing gas cap and rear seat lock with light weight security key.
Racing cylinders with grooves to provide full oiling at high rpms and compression release at low rpm. Don’t mention these outside of this forum as I nabbed them from the skunkworks division while Erik wasn’t looking.
Rear race tire with ultra hard compound and special tread profile for increased stability during long straightaways.(not AMA legal)
Front race tire with golf ball profile for added aerodynamic efficiency.
Prototype High performance forks with total loss stanchion oilers.
These parts all available for local pickup in Scottsdale, AZ for 30% more.
But if that’s the look you are going for, I have a bunch of parts you can have.
Toggle switch mod for ignition
Retro performance headlight housing with krypton/palladium ion magno-reflector lighting element assembly.
Heavy duty thick aluminum grips and pegs for when you can be bothered to use the kickstand.
High bypass oil cooler scoop
Hyper light weight racing pulley cover made from some high tech co-polymer of bonded hydrocarbons.
Racing gas cap and rear seat lock with light weight security key.
Racing cylinders with grooves to provide full oiling at high rpms and compression release at low rpm. Don’t mention these outside of this forum as I nabbed them from the skunkworks division while Erik wasn’t looking.
Rear race tire with ultra hard compound and special tread profile for increased stability during long straightaways.(not AMA legal)
Front race tire with golf ball profile for added aerodynamic efficiency.
Prototype High performance forks with total loss stanchion oilers.
These parts all available for local pickup in Scottsdale, AZ for 30% more.
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So, I think i found a new heart for tweaker bike. I’m getting good at swapping motors on these!
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I hope you're better at swapping Buell engines than posting pics.
I don’t know why my pic uploads have been doing that lately!
Anyhow, since Cooter was nagging me about never getting anything done....
And BAM! Took about 35 minutes!
Anyhow, since Cooter was nagging me about never getting anything done....
And BAM! Took about 35 minutes!
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RidetheLightning
Well-known member
I like the beetlejuice treatment on the case
