New Buell owner, laundry list of issues

[TripleSober]

I'm in Thornton

 

[rchuff]

ReadyXB is a stand up guy and you should like his product. [up]

 

[Risp]

Hey Ready, I was just about to order a cable when I saw this post... Ordered your cable instead just now. Looks like you offer good troubleshooting help.

 

[ReadyXB]

Thanks! I try to help when I can, but there is a large community here with a broad variety of knowledge.

 

[lowkey]

Triplesober, you say in your first post the bike was hanging on idle at 2k when warmed up and that you brought it back down manually, what did you adjust to do this? On an 05 as stated you want to do it through ecmspy. Whatever you adjusted surely is the wrong direction to solve your issues. If I were you, once you get the cable, take the bike down to the throttle body and with inner and outer air box off. Take the throttle cables off and lube them first thing from the throttle on the handlebar to the now disconnected ends from the throttle body. Once you have done that make sure the throttle at the handle bar is smooth and has no binding from the grip or tightness, could need to lube the tube as well. Now connect the cables back up and set the tension in them so that when you let off the grip the throttle plate will snap fully closed and at the grip you can feel there is no more play for "letting off". Now that you have set up the proper tension and verified the butterfly is fully closing, you can tackle the TPS reset. Connect with ecmspy from computer to bike and verify the connection by blipping the throttle, you will see the number rise on the computer screen. back off the adjustment screw located on the left side of the bike just under the air scoop, it is a hex key. once the number stops decreasing when backing out the screw stop before you go to far and do the "reset" on the ecmspy software. From here you want to back it in at 5.1 to 5.5 showing on ecmspy, fire up the bike and get it to operating temp, set idle in the 1,100's IMO for best results.

Here is a perfect video that outlines step by step how to do the procedure. (do not worry about zeroing the adjustment for the reset if it doesn't go down past a number just move on).

As also mentioned from other posters, do the crank case breathers to atmosphere as this sometimes solves issues in that rpm range.

good luck![up]

 

[lowkey]

As for the brake "pulse" or "shutter" feeling, you may have a build up on the rotor. Take a scotch brite pad and with the front wheel off the ground spin the wheel holding the rotor with the pad making contact on both sides of the rotor. If your rotor is really bad you can take it off and do the same with sand paper on both sides, Or ASB sells a brake rotor hone to clean it up. The mounting hardware is "one time use" and considered a wear item. This is where I would recommend the EBR upgraded hardware kit for $50 bucks, but I don't think anyone can buy the kit at this time... contact Al at ASB for a regular rotor hardware kit, he may have some of the EBR kits, not sure.

 

[TripleSober]

It gets worse. After I phone call with 06xbss last night i got the pep talk and info I needed to just focus on one thing at a time. First up fuel pump.

Started pulling things apart this morning. First thing I come across is a tear half way through the primary belt. I swear I checked that thing 5 times and it looked fine.

Screw it. I don't have $130 to blow on that but I'm a trooper I'm gonna keep on moving on the fuel pump.

Axle is seized. I've tried everything the forums mention nothing is budging this thing. I'm gonna have to order the rear axle tool and get a long cheater bar. Neither of which I can afford at this point.

So this project is just gonna have to sit. I've spent the better part of a day getting nowhere. Very frustrated. It's got a new tire the last guy had installed a Harley dealer. I'm guessing anti seize wasn't used and they impacted that thing on. IDIOTS!!

06xbss I think I can pretty much say I won't need your help Sunday. Your awesome for the offer to help and I will still take you up on that. Rain check. Again thank you for your time yesterday.

I may have bought a pile of **** but the DIY support here is just plain awesome.

I'll get it fixed. Just not now.

 

[lowkey]

You sure you don't have the tool in the tool bag under the seat? looks like a nut with a "C" clip in the middle, you then use a 22mm socket over that. Another member came up with a brilliant way to get around not having the tool by using a spark plug socket.

Here found this on badweb: "A 13/16" spark plug socket hex end is also 7/8". Pull the rubber center out of the socket, stick an extension through the socket to the drive end and you can use that to remove the axles as well. I prefer to do this over using the tool that came on the bike."

make sure you loosen the pinch bolt under the right side of the swing arm! spray penetrant to try and loosen as well.

 

[lowkey]

Don't think of it a a POS because it has a few issues, this is all part of buying used... need to do you due diligence and go through the thing to see what you have and you will be a better buell owner because of it.

 

[TripleSober]

Lowkey your right. It was just a long bad day. Was hoping I bought a bike that was cared for as I care for my bikes. The only POS is the guy that sold it to me.

I'll know the bike inside and out and that's good when you got a hot rod motorcycle.

The axle tool is not in the bag or under the seat. I tried a 13/16 socket tool and there was more slop than I care for. Made my own with a 22mm bolt, Pinch bolts are loose. Need a solid cheater bar and a step back, breath and I'll get it done.

Just a bit nervous that even with slow pressure the axle bolt will snap. Sprayed penetrant and let it sit for a few and nothing.

Haven't tried heat yet. Always makes me nervous.

Looks like I bought an end of summer bike. It'll be that much sweeter to ride when I complete the work.

 

[TripleSober]

So quick follow up....

Got everything back together! Fuel pump is fixed. The old fuel screen was in a million pieces. What a mess.

Pulled the throttle body. Ended up replaced throttle cables. One was falling apart.

Gonna order the belt next week.

I took it for a gentle test ride today. Brake shudder gone after cleaning and scotch brite. Idle is perfect. No stutter at low RPMs

One I get the new belt I'll be set.

This website is the best! Thank you guys for all the help.

 

[06xbss]

Glad to hear your getting the bike sorted out

 

[TripleSober]

Ughhh I guess I spoke too soon.

So I've been just using the bike on short trips. Every quick ride is another test. Everything has been running fine save for an annoying stutter from full stop once in a while.

Anyway the positive battery cable bolt had stripped so I replaced it and mounted the cable to the top of the battery. Still no problems running good but the seat was getting caught up on the cable. So the other night I moved the cable so it's clear of the seat. Bam it idles horrible runs like crap and back fires on decel.

TPS reset and it's all good. Next day same problems idles horrible backfires etc... TPS reset and it's good.

Today I take it for another ride. Runs like crap. I'm like really do I have to reset this thing every time I want to ride???? Screw it I do another reset. Still runs like crap. 2,3 resets still runs like crap. Now it won't even idle.

Is my TPS bad? WTF??? FML