Newbie about to do some maintenance

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Hossman

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Nov 9, 2018
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I am new here. I got my '03 XB9SL in July with 23,700 on the odo. It now has 25,600. It's my first bike.

I'm going to change the tank and primary oil. I ordered 20w-50 Mobil 1 Vtwin synthetic for the tank and primary, because I heard a lot of good things about it on these forums. The filter I ordered was a K&N.

It just dawned on me that I live in Georgia and it is winter. Lol. Currently, the bike doesn't have much trouble starting up below 40 degrees. Most of the time, I'll break the clutch loose by pulling in the lever, putting it in gear, and rocking the bike back and forth. This helps it start up a little easier on a cold morning. Then, I go inside, put all my gear on, and hop on the bike.

I have a few questions for my upcoming DIY maintenance.

Is 20w-50 going to be fine for regular use in cold temperatures? I'd imagine it would be okay, just not ideal. I always ride the bike gingerly for the first 5-10 minutes of riding.

I don't have a bike stand, so I just planned on draining the primary for a while, then sitting on the bike to bring it level to drain the extra stuff for a few minutes. Will that get the job done? How many of you don't use a stand to change the primary oil?

For the primary, should I fill it through the cover with 2 fasteners, or the one with 3 fasteners? Any advantage to either or?

Any other advice you can provide this newbie will be greatly appreciated!!
 
For the primary as a rule of thumb. One quart out- one quart in. Through the 2 fastener cover. You could through the 3 fastener cover, but that would be tricky at best. Get the book from the link that the Rider of Silver provided.

Also, be careful when tightening the drain plug on the swingarm. Just enough to slightly compress the o ring. Do not tighten to the factory spec in the book.

How to video here for changing the oil. DO NOT TORQUE THE DRAIN PLUG ON THE SWINGARM. 26-29 FT pounds is "a bit" excessive, and can strip the threads of the swingarm. A helicoil kit will set you back about $130, not including having to replace that synthetic oil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMuEHcP6iws
 
Last edited:
Silverrider said:
Welcome , pics please

Read up will answer all ur questions and more.

http://buellmods.com/
Click to expand...

42831067_10216649804227983_5171276740487544832_n.jpg
 
34nineteen said:
For the primary as a rule of thumb. One quart out- one quart in. Through the 2 fastener cover. You could through the 3 fastener cover, but that would be tricky at best. Get the book from the link that the Rider of Silver provided.

Also, be careful when tightening the drain plug on the swingarm. Just enough to slightly compress the o ring. Do not tighten to the factory spec in the book.

How to video here for changing the oil. DO NOT TORQUE THE DRAIN PLUG ON THE SWINGARM. 26-29 FT pounds is "a bit" excessive, and can strip the threads of the swingarm. A helicoil kit will set you back about $130, not including having to replace that synthetic oil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMuEHcP6iws
Click to expand...

Thank you!
 
Hossman said:
It just dawned on me that I live in Georgia and it is winter. Lol.Is 20w-50 going to be fine for regular use in cold temperatures? Any other advice you can provide this newbie will be greatly appreciated!!
Click to expand...
20W50 is fine. I live on an island west of Seattle and ride year round w/20W50. When I purchased my first Buell the dealer told me to use 20W50 year round. I used Mobil-1 one time. The engine clattered loudly and made all kinds of mechanical noise. In 49 years of riding that is the only time that happened. I replaced the oil and filter after only 150 miles or so, couldn't stand listening to what I perceived as destructive noises.
 
Hossman said:
I am new here. I got my '03 XB9SL in July with 23,700 on the odo. It now has 25,600. It's my first bike.

I'm going to change the tank and primary oil. I ordered 20w-50 Mobil 1 Vtwin synthetic for the tank and primary, because I heard a lot of good things about it on these forums. The filter I ordered was a K&N.

It just dawned on me that I live in Georgia and it is winter. Lol. Currently, the bike doesn't have much trouble starting up below 40 degrees. Most of the time, I'll break the clutch loose by pulling in the lever, putting it in gear, and rocking the bike back and forth. This helps it start up a little easier on a cold morning. Then, I go inside, put all my gear on, and hop on the bike.

I have a few questions for my upcoming DIY maintenance.

Is 20w-50 going to be fine for regular use in cold temperatures? I'd imagine it would be okay, just not ideal. I always ride the bike gingerly for the first 5-10 minutes of riding.

I don't have a bike stand, so I just planned on draining the primary for a while, then sitting on the bike to bring it level to drain the extra stuff for a few minutes. Will that get the job done? How many of you don't use a stand to change the primary oil?

For the primary, should I fill it through the cover with 2 fasteners, or the one with 3 fasteners? Any advantage to either or?

Any other advice you can provide this newbie will be greatly appreciated!!
Click to expand...

1-if you plan on riding in consistent temps of 60 and below during this oil change consider 15-40 or 15-50 in the swingarm tank. these motors are gentle on oil and any automotive oil will suffice. HOWEVER...for the primary fill which is also the same oil shared with the clutch pack and trans....the oil must be JASO-MA or higher rated. this covers all wet clutch applications.
2-swingarm tank and primary cavity drain plugs interchange. REPLACE the O-ring on each. if you can't source them send me a note and i'll fire you 2 down. just pay $1 postage.
3-let swingarm drain for 1/2 hour as well as filter housing. when removing the oil filter if the threaded pump housing shaft comes off with the filter....and they sometimes do....message me and i'll tell you the remedy.
4-let primary drain for 1/2 hour. fill it with properly sized funnel thru the chain tension window. it is the removable plate at the top of the primary cover attached with 2 screws. the 3 screw cover is the derby cover.
5-mobil 1 will be fine. i don't use it but it's fine. NO stand/stands needed for this type of basic service.
6-ONE quart in the primary.....2.5 quarts in swingarm when changing oil AND filter.
7-to break a cemented-together clutch pack do this instead of rocking as you mentioned: start bike...let it warm a minute or so....mount up...pull in clutch....paddle with both feet and get moving....with clutch lever pulled in snicker it into 1st gear....keep clutch lever pulled in and blip throttle. breaks the plates free every time and very gentle on the trans guts.
 
Last edited:
Make sure to check the bolt holding the kickstand, there is a new and improved one available. As mentioned above, be very careful with the drain plugs, good and snug does it ! Be very careful not to over fill the swing arm with engine oil, the level is checked while leaned on the kickstand. Remove and clean all grounds, no matter what they look like also apply an anti-corrossive.

Welcome to the board.
 

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