Newer motorcycles?
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Sdrxb12s
Well-known member
Rust proofing? You mean undercoating? Or are you covering the whole thing in rockgaurd lol
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I've always wanted to ride a super Duke r. Any comparison thoughts between it and a EBR sx?
I got to ride them back to back, and bought the SX. I must have a thing for weird headlights:love_heart:
GregoXB
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I've owned both, neither of them will disappoint you. The sitting position on my '19 Duke R is more upright with more leg room, better for a taller guy IMO. Very comfortable and taller than the EBR once you adjust the handlebars to your dimensions. They accelerate and rev similarly and both are torque monsters. The KTM has some trick parts like ss swing arm, brembos, trellis frame, WP suspension. It has a huge gas tank and can easily go 180 miles combined city/highway miles on one fill. One must mod on the Duke is upgrading the steering damper, the stock unit is useless. The EBR's damper is better. The EBR has a shorter rake too so it feels more flickable. I think the Duke might have more steering travel though. The Duke has some cool gadgets too like keyless start (with a key insert option start if needed) and will tell you tire pressure and adjust ride modes on the fly. KTM is having a huge year at MotoGP right now though, so they are definitely doing something right over there.
njloco
Well-known member
Never use or have rubber undercoating applied to any vehicle, at least not in the Northeast.
Sdrxb12s
Well-known member
I undercoat all my vehicles. What do you use to rust proof then.
njloco
Well-known member
" I undercoat all my vehicles. What do you use to rust proof then. "
Do they use a brine solution on the roads up there ?
Depends on what your trying to accomplish, in my situation the rust was running under the rubber type undercoating, you could crush the the cross members with your hands, very scary! Absolutely no way to remove all the rust on my truck chassis, my friends have seen the completed job and have all said it looks like a new truck underneath, now we'll see how it holds up to the coming winters.
Do they use a brine solution on the roads up there ?
Depends on what your trying to accomplish, in my situation the rust was running under the rubber type undercoating, you could crush the the cross members with your hands, very scary! Absolutely no way to remove all the rust on my truck chassis, my friends have seen the completed job and have all said it looks like a new truck underneath, now we'll see how it holds up to the coming winters.
Sdrxb12s
Well-known member
Yah we use salt, sand, and salt brine. I undercoat every year to stop the rustles. Makes a huge difference. The $100 and change it cost me is well worth it. My 96 Dakota looked brand new compared to a 2001 Dakota with no undercoat
njloco
Well-known member
You apply a rubber coating every year ? I would think that would end being a huge build up of layers ?
The biggest problem with a rubber coating is trying to get it off once rust sets in, the area that is rusting is going to have some rubber coming out off easily and some that will not come off period.
I'll share this bit of info I discovered, a really good easy way to fight rust is to simply spray fluid film on the new vehicle once a year. If you already have rust, then clean off the area of the loose rust, make sure there is no grease or oil on the surface then spray some ACE Hardware rust stop primer followed by some RP342 which is a waxy type coating. This will allow you to easily see any area's that become damaged and can easily reapply the coatings. The only drawback to the RP342 is that one must use gasoline or some other strong cleaner to clean it off.
P.S. I'm going to add a piece of information that most don't know, there are only a couple of ways to stop or slow down rust. To stop rust one must keep the metal from reverting back to what it was before it was mixed in that molten mix, one way is to coat it, this is where most coatings fail because all that is needed is a pin hole for moisture and salt to get through and start it's dirty work. The other way is to use a metal mix that doesn't rust. As for coating a rusted piece of metal one needs a coating that bonds at over 2000 psi that is what rust grows at, once you apply a coating that bonds at plus 2000 psi you have stopped rust creep, unless it's some kind of epoxy you won't find those adhesion levels in most store bought coatings.
One could also use an anode type coating, there used to be really good ones out on the commercial market but EPA restrictions brought most of t hem to an end, so now it's up to the customer to do the research to figure out the best coating for the job at hand.
I could go on and on about this stuff, most information I have forgotten over the years.
The biggest problem with a rubber coating is trying to get it off once rust sets in, the area that is rusting is going to have some rubber coming out off easily and some that will not come off period.
I'll share this bit of info I discovered, a really good easy way to fight rust is to simply spray fluid film on the new vehicle once a year. If you already have rust, then clean off the area of the loose rust, make sure there is no grease or oil on the surface then spray some ACE Hardware rust stop primer followed by some RP342 which is a waxy type coating. This will allow you to easily see any area's that become damaged and can easily reapply the coatings. The only drawback to the RP342 is that one must use gasoline or some other strong cleaner to clean it off.
P.S. I'm going to add a piece of information that most don't know, there are only a couple of ways to stop or slow down rust. To stop rust one must keep the metal from reverting back to what it was before it was mixed in that molten mix, one way is to coat it, this is where most coatings fail because all that is needed is a pin hole for moisture and salt to get through and start it's dirty work. The other way is to use a metal mix that doesn't rust. As for coating a rusted piece of metal one needs a coating that bonds at over 2000 psi that is what rust grows at, once you apply a coating that bonds at plus 2000 psi you have stopped rust creep, unless it's some kind of epoxy you won't find those adhesion levels in most store bought coatings.
One could also use an anode type coating, there used to be really good ones out on the commercial market but EPA restrictions brought most of t hem to an end, so now it's up to the customer to do the research to figure out the best coating for the job at hand.
I could go on and on about this stuff, most information I have forgotten over the years.
Last edited:
Sdrxb12s
Well-known member
I use a non drip undercoat(not rubber) which is basically a liquid slime. You can see through it and it penetrates into rusty surfaces. You drill out the body panels in the rockers, doors, etc. And fill those as well so your protection is inside and out. Most everything stays good but the undercarriage from to many trips in the rain needs to be touched up every year. I find it a superior product over the rubber for alot of the reasons you stated. It's good at first if the person applies it well. But over time like you say it becomes a problem. Any spots I notice to be exposed as well as any hinges, latches, hood stoppers, key slots I use rust check in a spray can. ( the red label can)
