painting buell race exhaust

[818Guy]

I have a Buell race exhaust for my XB12Scg. The color is "gray" (not polished) and is new, never used.

I want to paint it black so I'm looking for any suggestions on how to prep the can for painting.

What grit sandpaper?

How much to actually sand off?

I plan on using Rustoleum engine primer and engine enamel paint for the exhaust can.

Thanks for any help and suggestions.

[up]

 

[snrusnak]

Mainly you just need to sand off anythin loose, smooth out any ridges, and roughen up the entire surface.

You'll probably get a range of opinions but I'd go with something in the range of 400-800 grit for initial sanding. Also, you'll likely want to wetsand. After you prime it let it dry then wetsand it with 800 or 1000 then paint. After cured wetsand with 1200, 1500, 2000 then rub it out with polishing compound (if you want it to shine).

EDIT: forgot the most important thing is to clean the entire thing with dish soap/water mix before sanding, after sanding, etc. Keep it clean(dish soap works great because it's a degreaser so will remove anything that will break the bond of the paint to the metal). Obviously let dry before painting.

 

[818Guy]

Cool, thanks. [up]

I started with 320 grit today and was thinking it wasn't enough to rough up the can for painting.

I plan on finishing the sanding tomorrow and paint over the next couple of days. I may end up waiting a week before installing as the instructions say "full cure" in 7 days.

Next challenge will be how to set it up for paint (hang it up somehow or paint a side?).

 

[BuellyBagger]

Is it bare metal or coated grey? If its coated sand and paint. If its bare, you'll need to apply self etching primer or another type of metal prep product.not sure what the rustoleum engine primer consists of, it may be sufficient. It should specify if it is direct to metal.

 

[snrusnak]

320 is plenty rough enough for paint.

I like hanging for paint, more even and quicker. I think you'll find it takes a long time for rattle can to "dry" (as in if you lay it on a towel a couple days later it'll stick to the towel).

 

[nicholas900]

Hang it for sure. Use some steel bailing wire from hardware store.

If your set on using rattle can....Make sure you use high temp primer also. And like already mentioned clean it well. Dawn dishwashing soap reccomended.

Personally.... having it soda or bead blasted would be best to remove the paint. If you have a local place that does it you might be susprised how cheap it is. Locally that muffler would be around 20 bucks soda blasted. Probably be cheaper than buying sandpaper. But sanding would be fine. Just keep in mind any sanding scratches will be visible.

Use whatever grit you need to remove junk and oxidation. Then finish sand it to 800 and use a scotchbrite pad last. Use sand paper made for steel also. If you want it to look perfect, sand all the paint off.

Good luck and post some pics when you finish 'er up!

 

[snrusnak]

I'm certainly no pro painter, but I highly disagree with some of the above comments. If the paint is adhered well, no need to remove it, you can paint over it with no ill effects. Sanding scratches will not show up from sanding with 320 grit(especially over multiple coats). JMO, I guess...

Just to show I"m not talking out my ass, here's my brother's sporty that i rattle canned(it used to be yellow). $200 dupli color (autozone) rattle can job:

And I'm sure there's more than one way....just sharing my experiences.

 

[neilrl79]

No need to go to bare metal if the factory paint is holding up well. For that matter if the factory paint is holding up well there is no need to prime either, just scuff it up with a red scotchbrite and clean it well with rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits before painting it.

 

[818Guy]

Thanks everyone. Appreciate the input and experiences.

The race exhaust is the silver one (not polished) that was never used, never installed, so it's clean from the standpoint of no road grime or grease. It's straight out of the box so the condition is excellent as far as I can tell. I do have 500 degree heat primer and paint. My plan was a light base coat of primer and then several coats of the paint.

How would everyone suggest to hang the exhaust?

I'm planning to get extra mounting bolts from the hardware store to have them "installed" during the primer and paint to (hopefully) prevent any primer or paint from getting into the attachment points.

Secure the exhaust from a couple of those bolts I'm using during the job?

Thanks again everyone for the tips. [up]

 

[Renegade]

Why don't you just spend the $50 to have it powder coated black with a high temp powder?

 

[snrusnak]

Or ceramic coat it. I agree these are better, more durable options. But nothing wrong with paint either...

 

[egobuster1]

i just had my headers on my xb ceramic coated black and it cost me 120 bucks and it'll last.

 

[818Guy]

Yeah, yeah... I hear you guys on paying for it to be done.

I justed wanted the DIY "challenge" on this. I'm not out a lot of money for the primer, paint and sandpaper so if I completely F it up I still have the option for a shop to do it for me.

Otherwise I can say job done to myself.

 

[djs2k2]

snrusnak Man that is one sick rattle can job, did you clear coat it also?

 

[snrusnak]

^yes all duplic color. flat black primer, gloss black base, and clear. It's really all in the prep.

The only thing that sucks is the rattle paint doesn't harden, so it scratches very easy and drops of gas bubble. Those pics are years old, there are some marks on the tank now from gas drops. They can be wet sanded out and polished back to original shine(to an extent). Only so much clear coat on there...

My brother was very pleased. He brought the bike to HD to have it dyno tuned right after the paint job and they loved the paint. Couldn't believe it was rattle can.

I've heard they now make a rattle can clear coat that will harden.

 

[BuellyBagger]

I've heard they now make a rattle can clear coat that will harden.

They sure do, its actually a bit expensive. Basically its got activator and clear in one can and you break the seal between the two, shake, and spray. I've never tried it, but diamonts version supposedly sprays out just like their dc5100 production clear.

 

[snrusnak]

^that's exactly what I've heard. I also have not tried it. I haven't really done any painting projects since the sporty. I did my suzuki before that which I used the same products except different color and it came out good, although not quite as good as the sporty(I spent a lot more time on the sporty).

My wife has since bought me some spray guns, and I have a compressor, and as of new years I now have a shop that I rent. So I don't think I'll be messing with rattle can any more.

 

[818Guy]

Any thoughts on where (attachment point(s)) to hang the exhaust to achieve maximum coverage during the time I spray?

 

[snrusnak]

I'd hang it by one of the mounting holes. I wouldn't worry about putting hardware in them, when you run the bolts through afterwards the paint will come right out of the threads no problem.

 

[818Guy]

Cool, thanks.

I already had bought extra bolts for the painting so I will probably use them.