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So heres all the parts with 3 coats of the ground coat white.
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Now with 3 coats of pearl. No, pearl is not hard to spray, just 2 even medium wet coats and then a "effect" or "orientation" coat which u do by lowering the air pressure slightly and pulling back a ways and evenly let the pearl sort of "fall" into place.
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Clear coat next. I'll be using Dc5600 with Sm09 flatining agent to make satin clear. it looks milky in the mix cup, but goes on shiny like mormal clear @ first, but as the solvents evaporte out it will slowly become dull. Once the first coat starts to dull out its time for the second coat.

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First pic is when the last coat was still wet so it looks very shiny and then after they flash a bit they become satin, really not much shinyer than the basecoat was.
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Now all thats left (for me) is to reintstall the fuel cap bezel after letting everything dry overnite.

I also want to paint out some pluses and minuses of satin clear while im on the subject. Advantages include durability, very difficult to put a noticeable scratch in it from cleaning etc. and it looks really cool especially with a metallic or pearl color under it. Disadvantages, u cant wax it, if u buff it it will turn shiny, so that means that ne dirt nibs that end up in the paint are staying there bcuz u cant sand and buff it. Which isnt a huge deal bcuz they r very difficult to see neway since its not shiny. Other than that it acts pretty much the same as ne urethane clear and last for a very long time.
 
1badtitan90 picked up his plastics 2day round 4. Seemed pretty happy with em'. I think they turned out good and'll look great on his bike. I'm just glad to have em out of my hands so quickly, i hate worryin about things i just painted getting damaged.

I know that sounds a little crazy, but when i first started @ the body shop im @ I had just painted the entire front end of a pearl red jeep TJ sahara and buffed it out, it looked awesome, i was very proud of myself since it was the the first year of my pro. painting career and the jeep was nearly new. The next morning i came into work to find a huge zig-zag gouge all the way across the hood down to the metal, and no one would claim responsebility for it being damaged while it was sitting in my stall in the shop from 5pm to 7:00 am the next day. So, thats why im paranoid about everything i paint until its in the owners possesion.
 
Those look awesome. Im stoked to see the plastics go to a good home. Maybe when I am bored with carbon i will paint them.
 
Bump. This is good stuff!!

Buelly, how would you do a frame and swingarm (in '09 black)? I'm tryin to cheat and not take it all down, and I'd like to keep the stock "texture". Thx!
 
http://www.medallionrefinish.com/list.asp

this company sells some cheaper quality refinish options. I used their euro-trim black aresol (its satin black) on the appliques on my old '95 explorer and it lasted 4 years (sold it) and looked great the whole time. might b a good cheap frame black. And as i said in my PM rhino ill shoot u a step-by-step on painting ur frame as soon as i have a but more time to right it up.
 
[up] nice write up bagger. My hero air box and flyscreen have started to crack. I may have to attempt this at some point.
 
You'll be able to post up my helmet once I get down there. Sorry my schedule has been hectic.
 
And here it is :D For anyone reading/looking: The plan was a simple white satin (same as 1badtitan90's bike) and i had to fix a minor mess up on my part so i did some hand brushed pinstripe with house of kolor silver. Keep in mind this was the first time i have ever attempted hand pinstriping :p

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i was under the impression stripping the oem paint off a helmet weakened the integrity of the protective materials that compose it.
 
BuellyBagger,

Are you still looking for plastics to color match? I've got a thrust blue windscreen and airbox cover from a Uly I could send you.
 
Lithumion: I have heard that b4 as well, but the shell is generally made of fiber glass with a gel coat/clear coat finish. Kinda like a boat. The main danger of damageing the substrate is in using a solvent cleaner on the glass fiber which would wick into the fiber and soften it. Same rules apply for repairing smc, carbon, and fiber glass on autos bikes and helmets, no solvent on the raw material in your repair or u could soften the panel.
 
Augustus: yeah id love a chance to color match some parts in an effort to help evry body be able to spray their custom parts to match. I have been rediculously busy latley , so if uve got some layin around as spares maybe I can hit u up later this year (after I finish up some of my projects) and we can figure somethin out. Thanks
 
Just thought i'd post up some pics to brag of the 1972 Scout II that I finished up a week or so ago @ work. I did the paint work and trim polishing, and chose/installed the wheels and tires. A couple of my other co-workers did the body work, which included patch panels on every panel except the doors, roof, hood, and tailgate. This little rig was purchased new, by the father of one of our very good customer's wife. Story goes they would take it to Colorado when she was a kid in the summer and drive out into the mountains and camp/ go offroading. So it was kinda neat to restore it back to original like new (with some blingin wheels).

Should've taken more "in progress" pics but heres a couple.
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