PCV Valves

[34nineteen]

Okay - an update. Still outraged by the cost of a 'genuine' replacement part (StPHD - $34 plus $5.66 shipping), I decided to look for a suitable alternate.

I found an umbrella/mushroom style valve at Advance Auto Parts. It's a Carquest #PCA 1026. The callout says it's for a 2000 VW Passat 2.8L. $4.49, plus tax. It has a small valve body, and a hose barb at 90 degrees.

I replaced the section of hose that ran from the 'original' PCV in the rocker box cover into the airbox, and left it about 5 inches longer. I heated the end of the hose, and forced the new PCV into it. Then I tucked it under the velocity stack, with the outlet pointing down to drain any oil that collects in the valve.

View attachment 15909

I 'breath tested' it, and I get a seal going into the motor, and free flow coming out. I couldn't tell any difference in operation when I rode the bike to work this morning.

I also tested the front 'original' valve. It sealed when I blew into it, and flowed freely coming out, so I didn't bother adding a valve to it.

Another plus - this approach negates the need to rotate the motor, as the stock valves remain in place, where even when the valve part fails, they act as a breather/mist scrubber.

Very clever. :up:

 

[Cooter]

Looks like that will work just fine:up:

 

[Pushr0d]

Follow-up...

I'm not sure if it's me or if the bike really is running better - but it sure feels more 'spry'!

 

[motoguy]

Is there an issue putting something like this on the bike?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/microgard/engine-sensors---emissions/pcv/pcv-valve/c24c7c440178/microgard-pcv-valve/mgd0/pcv184

It fits the grommet hole, the clearance to the frame, and the vent tubes just fine. I had someone tell me that using a "ball style" is going to destroy the engine because the ball is going to get beaten to death in the housing and then fall into the head. Something about pressure pulses on a twin vs the intended usage on a multi-cylinder car. I have no idea on this.

How would I be able to tell the difference between mushroom / poppet style PCV and a ball style?

 

[Cooter]

Yes, they are called the same thing and do the 'same' job. PCV. That spring loaded PCV valve for a car is meant to work with a manifold vacuum source. The rubber cup style in the heads of your Buell are meant to relieve positive crankcase pressure and 'seal' against pressure reversion. Apples. Oranges.

And the 'ball falling in the head' is another one of those many, many, things that real professionals laugh at people on facebook pretending to know what they are talking about.

TL;DR
No.

 

[Barrett]

Is there an issue putting something like this on the bike?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/microgard/engine-sensors---emissions/pcv/pcv-valve/c24c7c440178/microgard-pcv-valve/mgd0/pcv184

It fits the grommet hole, the clearance to the frame, and the vent tubes just fine. I had someone tell me that using a "ball style" is going to destroy the engine because the ball is going to get beaten to death in the housing and then fall into the head. Something about pressure pulses on a twin vs the intended usage on a multi-cylinder car. I have no idea on this.

How would I be able to tell the difference between mushroom / poppet style PCV and a ball style?

Brandon: Do NOT use those cheap automotive valves. They rely on suction from a vacuum source to function. The XB pieces are the exact opposite. Go with either the Harley Davidson cross-reference....or what Josh recommended from the "Tube Frame sealing kit"...or what Steve recommended with the fabricated pieces.

 

[motoguy]

Cooter and Barrett, thank you both for the input. I've already installed these units in the '09 but it's not made it off the lift yet. So I'll be removing them tomorrow. I'm not familiar with users by real names yet but my current plan is to replicate what PushrOd did here:

https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?57123-PCV-Valves&p=631904&viewfull=1#post631904

I'll re-install the OEM Buell units, run the hoses back into the airbox (they had been replaced with an external breather style setup) and put the umbrella style units mentioned by PushrOd on the end. That seems like an easy enough fix. I've got 4 other Ulys I'll be working on, and each with will be getting refreshed (intake seals, exhaust gaskets, studs, injector cleaning, throttle body cleaning, etc). I'd like to have the same setup on each bike.

I do see the OEM units at Saint Paul are currently less expensive than the last time I looked. I seem to recall they were ~$60/each when I was last shopping for them.