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pipe crack....not crack pipe
- Thread starter Rayman
- Start date
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The first one was a craftsman but it was old so I figure it was just dull so I went and got a 2pack of dewalt. After that was a Milwaukee. Going to try smaller tomorrow, maybe 1/8" and see if I get anywhere and then chase it with a bigger size.
Any idea how deep I have to go? 1/2" deep?
Any idea how deep I have to go? 1/2" deep?
This is what I have done with broken exhaust studs and other various broken bolts. ( I have never done it on a buell but the procedure is the same). First soak the stud with a penetrating oil. Let it sit and then soak it again several hours later. Then start with a smallish drill bit ( don't use too small or you will end up breaking it when you put pressure on it) and SLOWLY drill down about a half inch or so. (It may take more than one bit if you dull it) The idea is to keep the bit cool so you don't quickly dull it. If needed you can always squirt some wd 40 on the stud to keep the bit cool when working. Now I would try to get either something like a left hand drill bit or this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002NYBH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?qid=1403240210&sr=8-16&pi=SY200_QL40
You will have to drill the stud to the correct size to fit in the broken stud extractor/left hand drill bit. Insert the stud extractor and slowly reverse the drill. Hopefully it grabs and removes the stud. If it dosnt you are already have the stud more than halfway drilled and can just drive on with drilling the and re tapping it.
You will have to drill the stud to the correct size to fit in the broken stud extractor/left hand drill bit. Insert the stud extractor and slowly reverse the drill. Hopefully it grabs and removes the stud. If it dosnt you are already have the stud more than halfway drilled and can just drive on with drilling the and re tapping it.
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nicholas900
Well-known member
nicholas900
Well-known member
I would just change them all out while your at it. If you insist on using a torque wrench I would use one calibrated in inch pounds. Torque values that low are difficult with large wrench.
Nothing to it really.
Friday morning, last week.
Saturday afternoon, had to wait for the dealer to open and go get the parts I needed, didn't get back until 10:30 or 11 in the morning.
Pulling the heads on these is not a big deal at all. It only took me a couple of hours to get the frame off and heads removed.
The guy at the machine shop could not help me out but refered me to another guy with an EDM machine so I have one more option before I buy new heads. But I have a question about the base gasket, should I replace it? I don't want to that the cylinders off in fear or the pistons and rings. I am still in way over my head here.
Some people say to replace base gasket too cause when u took head bolts out, u released the pressure on the base gasket. I have heard some people leaving it as long as its still sealed. If u do pull cylinder, pull it up enough to see the pin that holds the piston. Pop out the circ clip, push the pin out, and leave piston in cylinder. U will not have to do rings or hone the cylinder.
Use a pit stand or something to get ur rear wheel off the ground, put ur bike in 5th gear and turn rear wheel by hand. I took a drinking straw and put on top of my piston. When u turn back wheel u can watch when the straw gets to the top of the stroke. Its really not that bad, tore my top end apart for the first time this past winter. If u remove the cylinder, be prepared to do alot of scraping to get stock base gaskets off. Thety are really on there good.
I am taking the heads to a shop with an EDM machine, if they can fix them great, if not so be it I will buy new heads. Either way I am taking it to the dealer to reassemble. I don't have any faith in myself as the has gone from bad to worse to I can't do anything right and it's been over 2 months bike has been done because of a broken header bolt. By the time I am done it will cost me probably $1000
If its just a broke stud in your head, a machine shop should have no issues extracting the bolt or using an EDM. I am a machinist. I had a buddy at work do my front head for me. The bolt broke and chipped away a piece of the head right by the intake bore. He plunged the hole out to a 1/2 inch, pressed an aluminum dow into it, welded it all up, drilled and tapped header bolt hole , and re-machined the intake bore. If that shop with the EDM says no, send me a pic of it please. I would like to see how bad it is. I know everyone says it, but it is not that bad re-assembling the motor. I followed the manual, labeled bolts, even took a couple pics with my phone. The money does add up quick man. I feel your pain. You have to pay to play. 
I was refered to a guy who owns a machine shop. He can over took the heads off and 2weeks later tells me his equipment is not capabile of doing it and he didn't want to cause any more damage, referring me to a shop with the EDM. Going there tomorrow.
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