Pop Pop Boom Part. 2

[2003buellxb9s]

Okay, so I attempted to get my bike home last night with more of the same when I realized: This is the EXACT same thing that happened last summer, and it turned out to be my ignition coil!

So, my questions are:

-Is it likely that it is the ignition coil again even though I got it replaced 9 months ago? I'm thinking that possibly whatever caused it to fail before caused it again so maybe yes?

-Is it possible that a fouled plug or a weak battery could be causing the EXACT same symptoms as a wack ignition coil?

-I'm going to buy new plugs tonight to try tomorrow morning, does anyone have the specs on the plugs so I can pick them up on the way home?

-Can you buy a battery at an autozone or does it have to be at a dealer or ordered online?

-I read that wet plug wires can cause rough running, could it be that me leaving it in the rain for a few days is the culprit?

-I'm going to try to test the ignition coil tommorrow after buying a multimeter, has anyone done this and is it that hard?

Thanks group, if I didn't have you to come to I'd probably beat up my girlfriend or get drunk and blow all my money on cocaine and just hope everything is okay when I come to.

 

[Stevenc150]

does anyone have the specs on the plugs so I can pick them up on the way home?

OEM# 10R12A

Aftermarket NGK Iridium# DCPR9EIX

They can cross-reference the NGK number if you want a different brand.

Can you buy a battery at an autozone or does it have to be at a dealer or ordered online?

Yes, but I've heard it's hard to beat the batteries form the dealer.

 

[Tork]

Ignition related problems are often hard to diagnose because degradation or failure of any of the components (battery, coil, wires, etc.) can cause similar symptoms. The best thing to do is systematically go through each component and eliminate each as a suspect through the process of elimination. You might get lucky and find the problem by simply doing a visual/physical inspection of wires and connections. I usually start with the battery by verifying it's condition with load testing and making sure the cables are tight. Sometimes (and often) it's that simple. Next, I would check your spark plug wires to make sure they're tightly connected to the coil and that they don't show evidence of insulation wear from arcing or rubbing against the heads or frame somewhere. The plugs would of course be inspected and replaced as necessary. A bad coil is certainly possible and can be checked with an ohm meter to measure the internal resistance (I believe the procedure is spelled out in the maintenance manual). Not sure if Autozone (or similar places) check coils, but if they do, you can have your coil and battery checked at the same time.

Yes, a weak battery can cause poor running because it doesn't provide the coil enough primary voltage (12V) to generate the secondary voltage (thousands of volts) needed to produce a good spark. This can cause poor/erratic running and foul your plugs, which only adds additional symptoms to troubleshoot and isolate. This is why you need to verify all ignition components are functioning properly.

If your battery is weak, but still takes a charge and performs well on a load test, then I would immediately check the charging system to make sure it's doing it's job (simple voltage check on the battery terminals with the bike running).

Moral of the story- If you have an ignition problem, you need to make sure all components are operating properly. If you simply replace something obvious, like a weak battery for example, without further troubleshooting, the bike might run OK for a while, but the same (and maybe additional) symptoms will appear because the voltage regulator was the culprit all along.

Sorry if that was unnecessarily long-winded.

 

[Stevenc150]

Longwinded or not; Nice post Tork. [up]

 

[2003buellxb9s]

Wow Thanks Tork and Steven! That kinda got my scattered brain in order. Gonna give it a shot.

 

[2003buellxb9s]

Wait a second..

so I understand how to recognize a fouled plug, and I see in the manual how to test the coil, but how will I know if the battery is bad. I know I can take it to autozone and have them run a test under load, but what numbers am I looking for? I don't see anything in the manual...

 

[Tork]

If you're referring to the load testing, you don't need to know anything. You just take the battery to the parts store and ask them to test it for you and they'll do it right there on the counter. The diagnostic device they use measures both voltage and current while placing the battery under a load to verify the battery's cranking ability. The device is programmed to identify a faulty battery when it's voltage drops below a certain threshold while loaded. The diagnostic device will indicate this and let the store clerk know that the battery has passed or failed.

Load testing the battery is not covered in the maintenance manual.

I hope that answered the question you were asking. [smirk]

 

[2003buellxb9s]

Thanks Tork, okay, so I took it to autozone and although they acted like it was the first motorcycle battery they had ever seen, (I live in a pretty "urban" area and the guys that work there must smoke weed for lunch), they were able to test my battery under load and said that it was coming up as "good."

HOWEVER, I checked the battery myself with a multimeter and was only able to get a reading of about 12.34 which according to the manual is only 50%. It rained all weekend so I couldnt change the plugs or check the coil, but I'm thinking that the weak battery caused one of the two or both to fail.

My question now is, if my batter is reading 12.3, does that mean I need a new one, or can I just charge it back up?

Thanks,

 

[LeFox]

do the test yourself, you don't need to take it to autozone.

measure normal & measure while starting...

 

[2003buellxb9s]

Thanks Lefox, I'll do that tonight after work.

If I give you the readings, can you tell me what to do next?

 

[2003buellxb9s]

i can't believe i paid like 250 to have my coil replaced last time.. i didnt realize that i could order one for like 50$.. sheesh..

so if it isnt the coil, plugs battery or wires...could it be the stator or the charge regulator?

 

[LeFox]

where's that part one, it's been a long day and i forgot what the actual problem is

 

[2003buellxb9s]

http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Buell-Lightning-XB12S-XB12Ss-CityX-XB12Scg/Pop-Pop-BOOM

 

[2003buellxb9s]

Basically my bike is misfiring/backfiring/running ******. It's been raining for 3 days so I haven't been able to **** with it. Should be fine tonight so I'm going to test the battery while cold and while running like you said, Lefox, just to ge the numbers to bring back here, then I'm going to change the plugs and pull and test the ignition coil.

 

[LeFox]

you need to get the voltage drop while starting too. that's the one that will tell you if your battery is good enough.

once running, it should be steady...that way you'll know that your battery is charging.

 

[2003buellxb9s]

i got my new ignition coil from ironmachine and when i tested it, it tested very similar to the one i have that's cracked:

Primary - Supposed to be .5 to .7 ohms and I'm reading 1.3 on both the cracked one and the new one.

Secondary - Supposed to be 5.5 - 5.7 homs and i'm reading 12.3 on the cracked one and 12.5 on the new one.

Does this make any sense? Am I doing something wrong?

I went ahead and tried to install it thinking maybe my multimeter is bad and it started up and seemed to idle well and even rev. I made the mistake of only letting it run for a few minutes and then shut it off to put it all back together. When i went to start it again...same problem. running rough to an eventual backfire. i had changed the plugs and I tested the plug wires and it looks like one is bad or else i dont' know what i'm doing with the multimeter.

I guess now i write/call ironmachine and try to get ANOTHER coil? Or do i give up and have it towed to a shop. it's my only form of transportation and this sounds totally pathetic but my heart is totally broken.

[sad][mad][sad][down]

 

[2003buellxb9s]

Also, Lefox, is it possible that me putting the tape on the bottom of the coil caused it to not make contact with the bracket and therefore not work for some reason? i guess the bolts are making contact though.. hmph.

 

[racepro716]

Just my 2 cents...Most of the coil problems I've run into (lawnmower, snowblower, bike, whatever, have been a bad ground to the coil. Check out the mating surfaces between the coil and the frame, bracket, whatever. Also, check the lead wires to the coils. My old EX-500 racebike drove me nuts! It would run fine cold, after 2 laps one cylinder would shut down. The lead wire was JUST holding on at the coil when cold, expanded when hot and there goes that cylinder. Good luck, Wayne

 

[LeFox]

Also, Lefox, is it possible that me putting the tape on the bottom of the coil caused it to not make contact with the bracket and therefore not work for some reason? i guess the bolts are making contact though.. hmph.

bolts & bushings should make contact, but that should not have of any influence.
the coil is not a ground contact unit, it's connected by wire.

 

[TechMagic]

how did this pan out? I'm having similar issues