preparing for rear rocker gasket leak

[RidetheLightning]

So I need to dig in and verify the leak is where I think it's for sure from the rear rocker cover, but at this point I'm pretty sure it is, and want to prepare myself for what all I need to get. You can barely see it in the picture, but I noticed some oil caked on the hose behind the rear cylinder, and when I reached up and touched the fins towards the top, there was some fresh oil. S Do I for sure need a rear wheel stand? I wasn't sure if this was a necessity when loosening the belt to rotate the engine, or if it's just to keep things in line during the actual rotation. Is there any know how required once the engine is rotated to remove/replace the gaskets, outside of the steps mentioned in the service manual? Feeling a little overwhelmed by the size of this job, but paying a shop for a full day's labor is not an option, either. I'm going to have to do this in a carport/driveway, most likely over several nights.

 

[rchuff]

Could be one of 2 thing or both, rocket cover or rocket box. If not sure I would do both but is a little labor intensive. You should get a manual to do the job or if you have then you should be good. Take your time. As far as a stand goes it does make the job easier in the upright position. Just my 2 cents.

 

[BuellyBagger]

I've done this job both in my basement and in my ramshackle shed. I used a cheap MC jack and a wheel stand with a peice of bar stock through the front axle to keep the bike secure and upright. It can be done in some pretty sketchy surroundings, but if you have the opportunity to beg borrow or steal some well lit warm shop space, doit! Like rchuff said take ur time and it's a breeze. And remember we r here for ya!


Ps. I dont think this step was in the write up on doing the rotate, but I always take off the entire left foot rest assembly, because if the motor wiggles to the left as it comes down the primary will hit that and put a big a$$ gouge in the primary cover. I think I had that issue because of the way the motorcycle jack pivots on the way down.

 

[RidetheLightning]

Thanks for the advice guys, and I really appreciate the offer lunatic. I'm in phoenix area, though. I've found that thread too, and actually a youtube video with all those steps as well so should be a good reference. I also saw some advice you posted lunatic awhile back about using opposing ratchet straps from the handlebars to j-hooks in the rafters. Might try that too. Is there anything special about seating the gaskets, or any kind of break in period or considerations when I get back to riding?

 

[Silverrider]

Thanks for the advice guys, and I really appreciate the offer lunatic. I'm in phoenix area, though. I've found that thread too, and actually a youtube video with all those steps as well so should be a good reference. I also saw some advice you posted lunatic awhile back about using opposing ratchet straps from the handlebars to j-hooks in the rafters. Might try that too. Is there anything special about seating the gaskets, or any kind of break in period or considerations when I get back to riding?

You are in good hands ,http://buellmods.com/

 

[user_deleted]

Thanks for the advice guys, and I really appreciate the offer lunatic. I'm in phoenix area, though. I've found that thread too, and actually a youtube video with all those steps as well so should be a good reference. I also saw some advice you posted lunatic awhile back about using opposing ratchet straps from the handlebars to j-hooks in the rafters. Might try that too. Is there anything special about seating the gaskets, or any kind of break in period or considerations when I get back to riding?

yes sir, my pleasure. if you have a ceiling or some sort of overhead rafters the X-positioned tiedowns with soft straps on each grip work great.
1-nothing special about seating the new gaskets other than squeaky clean sealing surfaces all around. some folks use permatex aviation form-a-gasket liquid sealer OR yamabond gray #1074 in conjunction with the new gaskets....though i never found it necessary.
2-the OEM H-D gasket set is good quality and complete....the James gasket set seems to be preferred by board members and is top quality....priced a bit lower than OME kit.
3-i can provide you with part numbers for each based on your year and model if needed.
4-most including myself replace the intake seals...which are part of each kit...while the motor is rotated. time well spent.
5-check your breather grommet which resides in each rocker cover. they need to be reasonably soft and supple for them to seal properly. if not replace both while the covers are off.
6-for cheap money i'd also replace the O2 sensor located on rear header at the same time. they have a finite life and considering the age of your bike worth replacing.

there is no "break-in" period for any sort of new gaskets or seals but always keep in mind that stop-and-go traffic combined with high engine temps is the mortal enemy of any air/oil cooled motor....XB's more so than most of the rest due to the cylinder heads and exhaust positioning.

 

[Silverrider]

Are you using a RSS ? especially in the phoenix area,

 

[Cooter]

Probably rocker box, the cover usually isn't the leak because its higher than the level of the drain-back oil.
Just do them both. The rocker cover is off already. Don't forget to seal the corners, it also helps with keeping the gaskets in position while replacing the parts back on the engine.

 

[RidetheLightning]

yes sir, my pleasure. if you have a ceiling or some sort of overhead rafters the X-positioned tiedowns with soft straps on each grip work great.
1-nothing special about seating the new gaskets other than squeaky clean sealing surfaces all around. some folks use permatex aviation form-a-gasket liquid sealer OR yamabond gray #1074 in conjunction with the new gaskets....though i never found it necessary.
2-the OEM H-D gasket set is good quality and complete....the James gasket set seems to be preferred by board members and is top quality....priced a bit lower than OME kit.
3-i can provide you with part numbers for each based on your year and model if needed.
4-most including myself replace the intake seals...which are part of each kit...while the motor is rotated. time well spent.
5-check your breather grommet which resides in each rocker cover. they need to be reasonably soft and supple for them to seal properly. if not replace both while the covers are off.
6-for cheap money i'd also replace the O2 sensor located on rear header at the same time. they have a finite life and considering the age of your bike worth replacing.

there is no "break-in" period for any sort of new gaskets or seals but always keep in mind that stop-and-go traffic combined with high engine temps is the mortal enemy of any air/oil cooled motor....XB's more so than most of the rest due to the cylinder heads and exhaust positioning.

It is an 07 XB12S w/ 16k miles. Was actually thinking of intake seals, so thanks for the confirmation, and I'll look into an O2 sensor. How do I confirm whether is a rocker cover or rocker box leak? Also, yes to RSS. It was definitely running lean though when I first bought it. Had K&N + Jardine and felt hot and didn't do well on hot re-starts. Bought buelltooth and confirmed lean, set tune for the air filter/exhaust combo and ran perfect with 99.7 AFR, and noticebaly cooler and seemingly more power. I also do mostly city riding in central phoenix with some jaunts up north.

 

[Silverrider]

take the seat off shine a light in to the cooling fan and look at the rear cylinder ,the fan will be coated with oil also.when the box is leaking.

 

[djs2k2]

Also go ahead and replace the breather and grommet while it's accessible is cheap and once you get you it you can see if it's been leaking as well. You'll also need a torque wrench in inch pounds.

 

[BuellyBagger]

Also go ahead and replace the breather and grommet while it's accessible is cheap and once you get you it you can see if it's been leaking as well. You'll also need a torque wrench in inch pounds.

Quote from lunaticfringe: 5-check your breather grommet which resides in each rocker cover. they need to be reasonably soft and supple for them to seal properly. if not replace both while the covers are off.



Good looking out bro

 

[outthere]

If you could take pic's along the way that would be nice.

 

[njloco]

Here's a little old secret, linseed oil restores most types of rubber, just make sure you wipe off all the excess.

 

[dantroop]

Here's a little old secret, linseed oil restores most types of rubber, just make sure you wipe off all the excess.

That's some oldskool info there! Good tip for the whipper snappers.

 

[RidetheLightning]

Here's a little old secret, linseed oil restores most types of rubber, just make sure you wipe off all the excess.

That's the stuff I'm lookin for! Thanks for all the advice guys. I probably won't have time to get to it until the weather in Phoenix is too hot to ride, but I'll post more once I get into it. My father in law has some extra garage space I can probable use for a weekend so I don't have to do it in my driveway. I've also got some new plugs and wires to throw on while I've got everything off.

 

[RidetheLightning]

After cleaning it up and some short rides, I had decided it was just some seepage. Then took a 2.5 hr ride today and when I got home this was the puddle that formed. Luckily my father in law just built a new garage for his RV, so I can hopefully squat in an extra space for a bit. One question I still have is the correct kit to get. I'm not 100% sure it's the cover gasket, so I'm leaning toward a full James kit and replacing everything. Is this overkill? The number I have is JGI-17049-07-X from one of John's old replies, but then someone mentioned an incorrect pushrod cover o-ring in that kit. Is there a better option, or still do this code and get the pushrod o-ring from ST-P? I'm planning on getting intake seals too, should I do the James blue?

 

[34nineteen]

Since you are going to pull/rotate the motor, then go for it. They are extremely difficult to put in place with a un rotated motor. And I *think* I have a spare set of stock intake seals in case it goes sideways. Difficult is probably not the right word, they are just tight fitting due to the design of the blue seals.

 

[Cooter]

If your going to do intake seals while you're in there, I would highly recommend the specialty tool:

 

[RidetheLightning]

Thanks, guys. Good call on the wrench. Can anyone please confirm the rocker box gasket kit? I think I'm just going to go ahead and do front/rear cover and lower box gaskets, along with any other gaskets included in the big kit. I saw someone say the James kit has the wrong pushrod o-ring, so I'm guessing I just get the Buell one separate from SPHD. I'll be sure to post pictures when I tackle it, as I feel completely indebted to you all for all the great advice. If it weren't for poring over this site before getting my bike, I'd be riding something much less unique just to have the distribution channels.