Rocker box gasket service

[Mesozoic]

Leak from rear cylinder appears to be from every orifice LOL. The lower rocker box gasket and upper rocker box O-rings were all suspect as well as the PCV grommet. I do see that my old rocker cover gasket has a slightly older revision than the new one I've purchased, so maybe there's been some improvements from the motor company themselves. That said, it's unclear whether there's a clear winner with regards to using the James Gaskets equivalent or HD.

 

[Mesozoic]

I ended up using the James kit I have, as it has a steel coated gasket just like the HD one for the lower rocker box. The upper O-rings are red in color and lack nubs along their length, but aside from that appear similar and fit well.

I had not rotated the engine enough to remove the exhaust pushrod, but was able to remove the intake one. Reassembling the lower rocker box onto the head after cleanup, I'm seeing that the exhaust pushrod has pressure on it that keeps the other end in contact with the exhaust valve tip, but I'm not seeing this with the intake pushrod. It's far enough down that I'm still able to move the intake rocker arm around significantly. Do I need to be concerned here? I've rotated the crank to ensure that the valves are at their lowest positions, but it seems like I'm not doing something right if the intake valve tip has that much slack in it.

Cheers!

 

[34nineteen]

Reassembling the lower rocker box onto the head after cleanup, I'm seeing that the exhaust pushrod has pressure on it that keeps the other end in contact with the exhaust valve tip, but I'm not seeing this with the intake pushrod. It's far enough down that I'm still able to move the intake rocker arm around significantly. Do I need to be concerned here? I've rotated the crank to ensure that the valves are at their lowest positions, but it seems like I'm not doing something right if the intake valve tip has that much slack in it.

Cheers!

I would definitely look into that. Even when the rocker box is tightened down with the pushrods in the lowest position, there should not be any slack. Even after the lifters bleed down, you should only be able to ROTATE THE PUSHROD by hand, but no slack in the rocker arm. First, I would check the valve spring to make sure its not broken or damaged, then the lifter, then the cams.

This is why installing the rocker box and tightening the bolts down should only be done with the crank/cams in the correct position. Even in that position, there will be pressure on both pushrods as you tighten the 4 bolts down. Yes, you could theoretically tighten down the bolts with the crank/cam in any position, but you risk stripping bolt threads or damaging something in the process.

And you need to wait AT LEAST 1/2 hour (opinions vary on time) after torquing down one rocker box, before doing the other.

 

[Mesozoic]

I wonder if I messed something up by rotating the crank. I've been using a large socket on the drive belt pulley, assuming that is the crank. I have seen the exhaust pushrod go up and down, but honestly haven't witnessed the intake pushrod do anything. Sounds like I need to rotate it a bit more and make sure the intake pushrod actually rises and falls.

I have not removed the pushrod cover as I did not remove the cylinder head... but I wonder if I have to do that since something is up (or not up in this case).

 

[Cooter]

It wouldn't have ran...

You are over your head and going to make much bigger and more expensive problems than you are trying to fix:upset:

1) Leave that cold garage, sit on your comfy couch in a warm house, and read the ****ing manual. It is spelled out step-by-step in simple language.:eagerness:
2) Understand it, ask specific questions about a specific step, or see #1.
3) No, the rear belt pulley is not the crankshaft.

Buellmods.com

 

[Mesozoic]

It wouldn't have ran...

You are over your head and going to make much bigger and more expensive problems than you are trying to fix:upset:

1) Leave that cold garage, sit on your comfy couch in a warm house, and read the ****ing manual. It is spelled out step-by-step in simple language.:eagerness:
2) Understand it, ask specific questions about a specific step, or see #1.
3) No, the rear belt pulley is not the crankshaft.

Buellmods.com

I've been following the manual to the tee, but it doesn't describe what I'm seeing regarding the pushrods. You misunderstood what I'm describing as the drive belt pulley... I'm talking about the pulley on the engine itself, not the rear wheel. My bike currently does not even have a rear wheel installed on it (for other reasons).

Is it possible that when I reinstalled the pushrod that it is not sitting on the lifter cup? I didn't think the hole was large enough for that to happen, but clearly something is amiss. It's that or the lifter has totally collapsed. My intake rocker has about 0.5" of play in it before it contacts the valve tip right now.

 

[34nineteen]

I've been following the manual to the tee, but it doesn't describe what I'm seeing regarding the pushrods. You misunderstood what I'm describing as the drive belt pulley... I'm talking about the pulley on the engine itself, not the rear wheel. My bike currently does not even have a rear wheel installed on it (for other reasons).

There is a belt pulley on the engine. You can rotate the engine with that pulley, but with as small the purchase area is on the pulley and the amount of leverage required to turn the motor over, its much, much, much easier to do it by rotating the rear wheel. Unless you want to remove the lock plate from the pulley nut, and even then you dont get a lot of purchase. Also, this nut is left hand threaded, you if you are turning it the correct way, your wrench will try to loosen the nut, which will create another problem. Your best bet it to reinstall the wheel, belt and pulley, put the transmission in 5th gear and rotate the rear wheel. This is how the instruction book calls out to rotate the crankshaft for most procedures.

The other way to do it is to remove the primary and turn the crank nut with a wrench and socket. The Hammer video demonstrates that and here is a version of the tool they used.

https://www.toolsource.com/upper-en...haft-wrench-harley-davidson-evol-p-93123.html

Is it possible that when I reinstalled the pushrod that it is not sitting on the lifter cup? I didn't think the hole was large enough for that to happen, but clearly something is amiss. It's that or the lifter has totally collapsed. My intake rocker has about 0.5" of play in it before it contacts the valve tip right now.

This could have happened, if you completely missed the lifter and the pushrod is somehow sitting in there sideways.



In any case, watch this video, its not an XB motor, but the idea is similar. You can see how much the pushrods should be able to move once its all buttoned up.

 

[Mesozoic]

Thanks for the sanity check - it was once again, user error. I had somehow installed the intake pushrod without it making contact with the lifter itself. Not sure how that happened as there is very little room within the tube to misplace it, but sure enough, that's what I did. This was confirmed by cycling the motor and not seeing the intake pushrod rise and fall at all. Reinstalled and all is well now.

The Hammer Performance video shows them using some kind of threadlocker on the rocker arm bolts. That's definitely not called out in the Buell manual. What's the collective Bueller consensus on that?

 

[34nineteen]

Thanks for the sanity check - it was once again, user error. I had somehow installed the intake pushrod without it making contact with the lifter itself. Not sure how that happened as there is very little room within the tube to misplace it, but sure enough, that's what I did. This was confirmed by cycling the motor and not seeing the intake pushrod rise and fall at all. Reinstalled and all is well now.

The Hammer Performance video shows them using some kind of threadlocker on the rocker arm bolts. That's definitely not called out in the Buell manual. What's the collective Bueller consensus on that?

View attachment 16021

There is actually a lot of room in the Buell pushord cover at the bottom. Its just an open cavity that encases both of the lifter bores and then some.

I dont use locktite on the bolts, especially on a stock build. If you are using a Hammer kit with Cometic MLS gaskets, then sure, why not? If Hammer Dan is doing it, and is broadcasting it to the world in these videos, it cant be all that bad.

 

[Mesozoic]

Since I've gotten into the rocker boxes I realize how easy it is to "bolt on" one of these Hammer Performance big bore kits. Very tempting! However, I think I'm going to wait until the engine is burning oil or some other wear condition pushes me into that. I'd have to retune as well, which is something I just finished on my existing setup (took me a while to complete). Thanks for the help!

 

[Cooter]

Glad you got it sorted.