Questions for you Jeep gurus

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matt87951

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Have a few questions for you Jeep guys and gals out there. I am looking to buy a Jeep for a winter car, as well as something I can use for hunting and towing my motorcycle trailer and a boat. Do any of you have experience with XJ's? Specifically the 1999+ XJ's? The XJ is my top choice, but I have looked into a couple ZJ's and WJ's as well, but the XJ is definitely still my top choice.

Do you have any pros/cons to getting one? Particularly regarding towing a small trailer (Well less than 2000 pounds), and just normal driving? Unfortunately I don't think I'll be using it much for off-roading, but I will use it out in the field / woods while hunting, so it will be off the pavement sometimes, just not doing traditional off-roading. How is the reliability, the towing, overall quality of the vehicle, etc?

Thanks!
-Matt
 
Jeeps are good vehicles. What engine would you be getting? The 4.0L inline six is like the Ford 4.9L inline six, one of the better engines ever produced. They will run damn near forever with regular oil changes. The inline sixes also produce a ton of torque for their size, so towing 2,000 lb would be a breeze. Also that engine is fairly decent on fuel, although it's not a prius...

Transmissions are another story. Whether an auto transmission or manual gearbox(I'm sure the cherokee would probably be auto) they were not very good. If you got 100,000 miles on an auto you would consider yourself lucky.

Jeeps also hold value very well, which is bad when buying, but good when selling.
 
Jeeps are good vehicles.  What engine would you be getting?  The 4.0L inline six is like the Ford 4.9L inline six, one of the better engines ever produced.  They will run damn near forever with regular oil changes.  The inline sixes also produce a ton of torque for their size, so towing 2,000 lb would be a breeze.  Also that engine is fairly decent on fuel, although it's not a prius...

Transmissions are another story.  Whether an auto transmission or manual gearbox(I'm sure the cherokee would probably be auto) they were not very good.  If you got 100,000 miles on an auto you would consider yourself lucky.

Jeeps also hold value very well, which is bad when buying, but good when selling.

Yes - it'll be the 4.0 Inline six, the "High Output" which from what I read is essentially just the updated version with a little extra HP/TQ. The only I am looking at it almost like a time capsule, it only has 30k miles, and looks like it just came off the showroom floor. No rust anywhere on the body, and minimal to none underneath it. It's a ways away from me, so I have to do most of the dealing remotely, and do the visual inspection and test drive and such once I make the trip there to see it. I am just making sure I won't be paying way too much for it, while adding in the expenses for picking it up and such.

Thanks,
-Matt
 
If I were looking to buy a chrysler product that was before the 45rfe transmission came out, I'd anitcipate having to get it rebuilt. Even with 30k miles, you should plan on it, and if it doesn't need it then you will have extra money saved, because it will need it eventually lol. The transmissions just plain sucked at that time, especially when people took the things off roading and such.

For that year range you are looking at roughly 190hp and 225lb ft. The best thing is that peak torque is at ~3,000 rpm, and there is ample torque available off idle.

There is a good aftermarket as well, check out clifford performance they make intakes, exhausts, etc for that engine. And superchips has great tunes for the 4.0 as well. The tuning would be the first thing I'd do, it would likely pay for itself in 1-2 years just in better mpg.
 
I'm on my fourth YJ (i've only ever owned 6 vehicles) I love my jeep! sure its rough around the edges, is AWFUL on gas, doesn't go fast, isn't the best vehicle to tow with, and leaks when it rains, is cold in the winter, doesnt like to start when its super cold out (its the 4.2) but It'd be very hard to convince to to trade it!!!! I love my jeep so much!!! there are so many options to mod it, and change the look for a fairly low budget. and they are easier to work on than my bike is!!!!

I dont know to much about the newer models when it comes to the particulars, but I do know i'd take coils over my leaf springs any day!!!

2df734e4.jpg


since the picture i've gotten different seat covers, sold the winch, and swapped out bumpers. I have a huge to do list for the jeep, but it usually eats up the modding money by guzzling gas. its a 1989 BTW.
 
I'm a mechanic and I hate jeeps... Because there's never anything wrong with them.. But seriously, yes the 4 liters are billet proof and over all a GREAT vehicle.. Highly recommend. I'd love to put one in my stable some day..
 
If I were looking to buy a chrysler product that was before the 45rfe transmission came out, I'd anitcipate having to get it rebuilt. Even with 30k miles, you should plan on it, and if it doesn't need it then you will have extra money saved, because it will need it eventually lol. The transmissions just plain sucked at that time, especially when people took the things off roading and such.

XJ's used an AW trans and it was darn near bulletproof; WAY overbuilt for the size of a Cherokee. however, they do produce a fair amount of heat so a trans cooler is a wise investment.

The wife and I had a 98 XJ Cherokee for a number of years. It was the best, most reliable and least problematic vehicle we've ever owned. It had ~160,000mi on it when we sold it and neither the engine or tranny had ever been gone through. I towed everything up to a 16ft car trailer (complete with numerous different cars) and it never gave me a hint of trouble. I ran into the guy that bought it a few months back. It's well over 200k now and still running like a top. They are GREAT vehicles and we absolutely would still have ours if we hadn't out-grown it with kids/family.

The grand Cherokees however..... the transmissions are marginal and steer WAY clear of the 4.7L.
 
Just from my experiences all the transmissions except the 45rfe and it's sisters(545rfe, 65rfe, 66rfe, and 68rfe) have not lasted. I've known quite a few people with 90's and early 2000's wranglers and cherokees and almost all of them have had transmission troubles. Also many of the rams of that time did as well.
 
XJ's used an AW trans and it was darn near bulletproof; WAY overbuilt for the size of a Cherokee. however, they do produce a fair amount of heat so a trans cooler is a wise investment.

This ^^^^.

I don't fix cars for a living anymore but I did work for Chrysler/Jeep for 9 of the 12 years I was in the business. Chrysler transmissions were a big part of the reason I got out of the business in the first place. I've probably rebuilt more than 100 transmissions in my career and not one of them was the AW4 (Jeep Cherokee).

I wouldn't think twice about buying a AW4 equipped Cherokee if I were in the market for a used SUV.
 
Thanks everyone! That really helps. I know there seems to be a bit of an argument on the quality of the transmissions. The transmission and 4WD are the only items that I am worried about. I am more of a manual person, simple due to the simplicity of the transmission, and the minimal maintenance they require.

The Jeep I am looking, like I said only has 30k miles, so I would hope that it would last another 70k+ miles if I end up picking it up. I am crazy about maintenance, so it will be cared for. It has the towing package from the factory, so I believe that would include the factory transmission cooler. If needed, I would add one, because the last thing I would want is to overheat the transmission.

Thanks again for all the feedback, and keep it coming!
-Matt
 
The AW4 was used until 01', after 01 it was the 42RE. The 4.0 is a great engine, not completely immune to issues but a great engine none-the-less. The axles are a weak point if you decide to lift and go large tires but if your staying stock or close to it in the tire department you'll be fine. The tcase could be an NP231 or an NP242. The 231 is a part-time tcase only with your standard selections, the 242 has a full-time option, so 2hi, 4-full, 4hi-part, 4lo. I would add an extra trans cooler for sure but sounds like you have the right idea. This article might help not sure http://www.jpmagazine.com/featuredvehicles/154_1001_jeep_cherokee_buyers_guide/viewall.html

On towing, it's a uni-body construction so you CAN tow up to around 5000lbs but I wouldn't do it on a regular basis
 
The transmission and 4WD are the only items that I am worried about. I am more of a manual person, simple due to the simplicity of the transmission, and the minimal maintenance they require.

The Cherokee was available with an AX15-5sp manual, you have to look hard to find one but their out there. I Used to have an 87 Cherokee that originally had a p.o.s. peugeot manual. I swapped in an AX15 and absolutely POUNDED on that thing. It had 7" of lift, 35's 4.56's and a Detroit locker (it was my wheeling toy). Man I miss that thing. The AX15 is a VERY good transmission that is up to the task of handling anything the rest of a Cherokee will take. It's kid sister, the AX5, not so much (available behind 4cyl Wranglers/ possibly Cherokees??). The only thing to watch for on manual Cherokees is the hydraulic throwout bearing is prone to failure so if it has high miles count on replacing it. Fortunately, it's a cheap/easy fix.
 
The AW4 was used until 01', after 01 it was the 42RE. The 4.0 is a great engine, not completely immune to issues but a great engine none-the-less. The axles are a weak point if you decide to lift and go large tires but if your staying stock or close to it in the tire department you'll be fine. The tcase could be an NP231 or an NP242. The 231 is a part-time tcase only with your standard selections, the 242 has a full-time option, so 2hi, 4-full, 4hi-part, 4lo. I would add an extra trans cooler for sure but sounds like you have the right idea. This article might help not sure http://www.jpmagazine.com/featuredvehicles/15 ...

On towing, it's a uni-body construction so you CAN tow up to around 5000lbs but I wouldn't do it on a regular basis

The Cherokee I am looking at has the AW5 transmission and the NP242 transfer case, supposedly it's the rarer of the transfer cases and is what most look for in their Jeeps. I will be towing some, but it definitely won't be 5000lbs. It'll be less than 1500 pounds for sure. I would only be towing my motorcycle trailer (Max of two bikes, total weight less than 1300lbs), or an old 17' Aluminum bass boat that weighs maybe 800-1000lbs with the trailer.

Adding a second transmission cooler is a good idea, so if I pick this up, I will work on doing that as one of the first mods. Like I said, I am normally a manual car guy, but I really want a Jeep, and I will do what I need to to protect it's automatic transmission. I've owned five cars myself (Not counting the wife's cars), and only one has been an automatic, which was my first car.

Thanks again,
-Matt
 
Here's my Jeep.
1924_20121217103040_L.jpg


more climbing
1924_20121217103256_L.jpg


and tons of flex
1924_20121217103132_L.jpg


That said, let me clear up a few things. The Jeep you are looking at has a Asion Warner AW4 transmission. It's a Toyota transmission that is used in the Toyota Four Runner. I BEEEEEAAAAATT my XJ off rocks. Beat it. In the eight years I owned it, it went from not a dent to not a strait piece of body work on it. Detroit Locker in the rear, Detroit Trutrac in the front, ARB bumper, 8000 winch, trany skid plate, gas tank skid plate, control arm skid plates. Beat it so hard I bent a aftermarket gas tank skid plate. I replaced the engine in it three times, rear axle once, front axle once, transfer case once, stock transmission with 300,000 miles on it when I sold it, and still pulling strong.

Engine, the 4.0 is bullet proof. Yes, I went thru three, one, gf blew up while I was in Iraq. Engine two, gf overheated, got rid of gf, and no more engine problems. Now, that said, mine was a 97. The 00 and 01 have a different head casting number. IIRC 0441, if you let that engine get hot, at all, the slightest bit over 210*, the head will crack. 99 and back are stronger heads. Don't overheat it, ever, and it'll be fine.

The 00 and 01 use a low pinion front axle. It'll not be a issue for what you are talking about doing with it, but it is for off roading. All XJs(Note:88+, we'll skip the very few that actually had 44 in them) had either a Dana 35 or a Chrysler 8.25. The Chrysler axle is preferred, especially if you plan to tow. Easiest way to tell the difference is to kick a tire and if the axle breaks, it's a 35. Seriously, a 35 will have a oval housing, a 8.25 is sorta flat on the bottom.

On the plus side, 99 and up had a few pluses, redesigned intake that added a few ponies, coil on plug distributorless ignition. Also, a few different transfer cases were used. Preferred is the NP 231, followed by the 242. If you can tell me the shift pattern, I'll tell you which one it is.
 
Just from my experiences all the transmissions except the 45rfe and it's sisters(545rfe, 65rfe, 66rfe, and 68rfe) have not lasted.  I've known quite a few people with 90's and early 2000's wranglers and cherokees and almost all of them have had transmission troubles.  Also many of the rams of that time did as well.

Perhaps you are confusing Cherokees with Grand Cherokees. The Cherokees never have a lick of transmission problems as they use a Toyota transmission. The GCs do use a Chrysler transmission and have a lot of problems.
 
Preferred is the NP 231, followed by the 242. If you can tell me the shift pattern, I'll tell you which one it is.

This is the shift pattern for the transfer case. I am fairly certain it's the NP242, but I could be wrong.

2WD
4WD Part-Time
4WD Full-Time
Neutral
4WD Low

The Jeep is 8+ hours away, and there is someone looking at it tomorrow, so I'll have to wait and see what happens with those that the seller has lined up to see it already before I make the trip over there to see it and/or purchase it.

Thanks again,
-Matt
 
NP 242. Those are the same transfer cases in the 1114 and 1151 HMMWV... They are pretty good.

If its good enough for the real Hummers, should be good enough for a Cherokee! I'll find out tomorrow afternoon what will happen with the other guy checking it out. In the mean time I am keeping my eyes open for other low mileage Cherokees. Most of them I have seen don't have the NP242 transfer case, in fact this one is the only one I have found with it. What makes the NP231 a more desirable unit? Is that the standard transfer case in the 1999+ XJ's?

Thanks!
Matt
 
the 242 has sorta a open differential in the transfer case. In full time, it'll allow one wheel only to slip. IE, it'll transfer power front to rear like a open axle. In part time, the open part is locked, and it sends 100% power to both the front and rear axle. Very simply, the less moving **** something has, the less likely it is to break. The 231 is basically the same transfer case without the unnecessary moving ****. The 231 was actually used in the original H1s, IE, the 900 series HMMWV, and many Chevrolet's. It's also the case in the Liberty and the Jeep TJs.
 
Perhaps you are confusing Cherokees with Grand Cherokees.

You are correct, my friends had wranglers, grand cherokees, and rams. I ASSumed all cherokees (even grand ones) used the same trans :)
 
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