Re-route hoses
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mrdozer2you
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Once you remove the airbox cover so you can see the airfilter, you'll see how easy it really is. It just sounds tougher when its all written down.
** BTW there were 4 pages of installation directions that came with my exhaust. I read it and said Holy Sh**. Then I grabbed my tools, a beer, and tossed the instructions in the garbage. No Problems [up]
Ditto on the hose mod. Noticed a slight improvement at 1st gear parking lot speeds. Now I will be machining a catch can and powder coating it graphite to match the frame. Here is a quick sketch.
The vent will be at a 22.5 degree angle to allow the oil to flow down into the can.
The vent will be at a 22.5 degree angle to allow the oil to flow down into the can.
Im kinda thinking that eventually crap will drip from that filter. I have a catch can that the goop goes into and at the top af the catch can off to the side is the breather. It is just spliced into two directions this way (top photos) and both work as a drain. That defeats the purpose of the filter as a breather. Also, the drainage may become a small problem since gas, water and sluggy oil come out and onto your bike and rear wheel as you ride.
With a catch can you basically save it, and drain it every few tanks or so. No mess this way. There is a decent amount also that is caught at times..but it does differ.
With a catch can you basically save it, and drain it every few tanks or so. No mess this way. There is a decent amount also that is caught at times..but it does differ.
Oh! Before I forget, the plugs up top in the bottom of the air box. If they arent gluded in real good you may want to switch and install them from the bottom. If one rattles loose or something and somehow ends up in the Stack, your gonna be REAL unhappy. It draws air pretty hard and could suck one out. I've seen this happen to 3 different guys.
GatorBuell
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Just finished mine [up] Very easy to do. I used a 3/8 barb to 1/2 threaded end and capped it with a 1/2 threaded PVC end cap for a small reservoir and ran it under the seat.
captain13ron
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just did the mod......WOW, cleaned up my stumble. except i only used one tee and ran the hose back to and followed the line running to the rear master cylinder behind the right footpeg. very happy!
Bordsnbikes
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If your engine is running right you won't get any noticable change in AF mixture. The hoses your guys are rerouting have a suck and blow not just blow. The reason the oil moves out is because of the viscocity. Oil has surface tension, thats why you can't wipe it off. So what happens is it works its way out the tubes but not back in as much so it starts to get that film and then drips. As your engine starts to wear and you start getting blowby on your piston rings you will get an overpressure in your crankcase and it will start to just blow. When you start to get to much blow thats when it's time to re-ring your pistons. I have the same mod on my sportster. I eventually had oil EVERYWHERE. So I just tore it apart and bored out my cycliner and put in new pistons and rings.
As for the filter, if you have a catch-can then you need the filter or it will just spit oil out. If you don't have the catch-can then it will just drip down and onto the ground. If you want a technical name you can call it "vent to atmosphere" It sounds pretty good that way.
As for the filter, if you have a catch-can then you need the filter or it will just spit oil out. If you don't have the catch-can then it will just drip down and onto the ground. If you want a technical name you can call it "vent to atmosphere" It sounds pretty good that way.
Bordsnbikes
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So after typing out this great explanation, I realized this was all covered, I would have known that if I knew there was a second page. Haha oops.
I did this over my lunch break and I've only put like 20-30 miles on it since, but I must say ME LIKEY! Runs soooo much smoother from idle to 2500rpm, really makes going through the gate (speed limit 15 with like a million speed bumps) a lot easier. It used to be murder, the worst part of my ride to work, now it's gravy.
Oh and for all of those that were wondering, in theory your motorcycle mpg shouldn't be effected adversely because you are not stuffing more fuel in there now than you were before, if anything you will be getting more Oxygen in with your fuel so that it should burn better. Hence, maybe mpg's go up? Maybe someone could do a before and after study and post it on here for us?
Oh and for all of those that were wondering, in theory your motorcycle mpg shouldn't be effected adversely because you are not stuffing more fuel in there now than you were before, if anything you will be getting more Oxygen in with your fuel so that it should burn better. Hence, maybe mpg's go up? Maybe someone could do a before and after study and post it on here for us?
mrdozer2you
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Thats the idea behind it [up] But...because you arent re-burning/recycling the gasses it's being wasted and dumped out of the bike, so that could mean worse gas mileage. Then again, I bought my bike for fun, I could care less about mileage.
actually...FIDOSOL said:
to explain the concept.
original routing re-uses already burned gasses, which still have some unburned particles into the mixture and route them back to the inlet to burn again, thus actually burning the mixture twice.
this causes less unburned particles to be released into the air, which is better for the environment.
in this mixture, there are of course also exhaust fumes which don't burn that good and which prevents your engine from running optimal, especially at low rpm when there's not enough fresh air getting mixed with the already burnt mixture.
so, by re-routing this, you are no longer pushing fumes back into the engine, but filling it with a fresh air/fuel mixture, making your engine run smoother and healthier.
but, although minimal, this does affect the environment.
and, since you are no longer re-burning that air/fume/unburned particle mixture, you will be adding more fresh air/fuel mixture. Which will give you some minor changes in your gas/mileage.
Roccodart440
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Is there any issue now that there is nothing pulling positive crankcase pressure?
A PCV valve on a car for instance is very detrimental to remove. In race application we run vacume pumps off the motor and run to a canister to get even more vacum on the crankcase, albeit we don't recycle those gases in that application but we do it because a vacum pump makes more HP and also replaces the funtion of the PCV valve.
A PCV valve on a car for instance is very detrimental to remove. In race application we run vacume pumps off the motor and run to a canister to get even more vacum on the crankcase, albeit we don't recycle those gases in that application but we do it because a vacum pump makes more HP and also replaces the funtion of the PCV valve.
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