Ok so looking for pointers on entering corners. As of right now when i decel I am using everything, usually drop 2 from 5th to 3rd ease off clutch, while slightly fiddling with the front and rear brakes. I've had on more than one occasion felt the rear lock up a bit before slowing down. should i use more front brake? not drop 2 gears? i feel like i lose a lot of time dropping one gear at a time. i have a lot street racing experience on cagers and have been using most of the same concepts for shifting but i realize the traction game is a whole nother ball park. what do you guys do? more engine braking or more lever braking?
Slowing down
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You should definitely check out the twist of the wrist 2 video it helped me a lot in the cornering department. Didn't really go into detail on the braking side or gears but, I normally start setting up my turn by pulling in my clutch and dropping down to the gear I am going to want to accelerate through the curve in. While I'm doing this I am using my brakes and I try to do almost all of my braking before I do any lean/counter-steer. when I'm slowed enough I blip the throttle then ease the clutch out while accelerating through the apex.
But I could be totally wrong
But I could be totally wrong
All of my cornering exp comes from riding some serious twisties in the colorado mountains. I usually hardly ever downshift more than one gear at a time as I've noticed my back end lock up a little and these bikes have plenty of torque anyway. Accelerating through the turn is all I do...I never brake or shift during the turn. I need to chk out twist of the wrist as I've never been on a track or raced, but again 8 years of riding the curves oput here helped me. Re-reading this it's obvious I can't put it into words.
redliner172
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I agree with both brow and 303...I have studied twist of the wrist extensively and live by it.
303xb - you are already doing it "by the book" pretty much.
"Once the throttle is cracked open, it must be rolled on smoothly, evenly, and continuously throughout the remainder of the turn" Now repeat that 1,000 times!
303xb - you are already doing it "by the book" pretty much.
"Once the throttle is cracked open, it must be rolled on smoothly, evenly, and continuously throughout the remainder of the turn" Now repeat that 1,000 times!
bajabomber87
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The back tire could be sliding not because of you applying the rear brake too hard but because you drop gears and dont rev the engine out high enough, thus the tire slows down slower than your road speed. Rev that fawker out, it's not going to break!
lol, oh it's revved plenty :0) I understand the strength of these engines. Some times i can credit the slide to the muck on the road. I understand i will never ride in optimal conditions. sounds like twist of the wrist it is. Thanks guy!
kalifornia
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First kneel and pray before your bike like Rossi before every ride. Then grab as much brake (I like front and back) as you dare, as late as you can, as hard as you can, and ride the brake to the apex. remeber the kneeling part.
checking out the books on how to ride is fine and gives riders a new way to look at riding concepts. but maybe a skills and safety course could help too. my friends that have taken them to get licenses have said they were great tools for them as new riders.
rapping the engine out because you are dropping 2 full gears and locking up rear wheel isn't in any book i promise you. and should be extra careful with a rear wheel skidding when entering a corner
not only that, once you have stalled any wheel on your bike you have lost most control over it, you want to keep enough room in your rpm range to exit the corner without rev limiting or shifting, which again is a loss of control in sharp corners
after enough experience most people will begin to "feel" the right speed,lean,acceleration, it holds true with most vehicles
rapping the engine out because you are dropping 2 full gears and locking up rear wheel isn't in any book i promise you. and should be extra careful with a rear wheel skidding when entering a corner
not only that, once you have stalled any wheel on your bike you have lost most control over it, you want to keep enough room in your rpm range to exit the corner without rev limiting or shifting, which again is a loss of control in sharp corners
after enough experience most people will begin to "feel" the right speed,lean,acceleration, it holds true with most vehicles
BuddhaBuell
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ct
+1
+1
redliner172
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Trail-Braking is counter productive cause the braking forces stand the bike up more and more depending on how hard you are trail braking. Also, it is counter productive to leaning and exit speeds. If you arent charging turns you shouldn't need trail braking. PLUS if you have a later turn-in and are very in tune with your reference points, you can have exit speeds that are 20+ miles an hour faster than that of someone who trail brakes. During a race, t-braking would cost you 10ths of a second every turn which during a race can put you in the back.
Not saying that anyone supports t-braking or is trying to race. Just scientific fact. BUT to each their own.
Not saying that anyone supports t-braking or is trying to race. Just scientific fact. BUT to each their own.
[confused]
I thought he said he was looking for pointers entering corners.
Which is it? Entering a corner, or not skidding?
They taught us trail braking at the MSF SBRC.
It was funny. Every squid at the SBRC was skidding their rear tire during the quick-stop because they were scared to use the front brake going straight, let alone into a turn.
Stevenc150
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If you're planning on carving to the point of dragging knees, save it for track days OR do pre-rides making sure the planned route is free of debris and hazards and optimal for a speed run. Unplanned surprises like gravel/sand or debris are common occurences that can spell a wreck. (Just about nailed bits of shredded tire in a blind curve just the other day.)
The front brake is a 6 piston vs. the rear being a 1 for a reason. You'll see the racers get on it so hard the rear tire will lift a lot of times. Rear, IMO, is meant more for gravel, emergencies, or wet roads. Though occasionally, I use it when I come in too hot.
You're entry line & speed will determine the exit point, be it pavement or shoulder. Sighting you're exit before entering and choosing a good line is key to speed and as important as braking (The bike goes where you look). - all comes with experience and seat time.
Some good articles: Cornering and Knee Dragging 101
Edit: And like they said, downshifting too much defeats the setup - use the torque and higher gear.
The front brake is a 6 piston vs. the rear being a 1 for a reason. You'll see the racers get on it so hard the rear tire will lift a lot of times. Rear, IMO, is meant more for gravel, emergencies, or wet roads. Though occasionally, I use it when I come in too hot.
You're entry line & speed will determine the exit point, be it pavement or shoulder. Sighting you're exit before entering and choosing a good line is key to speed and as important as braking (The bike goes where you look). - all comes with experience and seat time.
Some good articles: Cornering and Knee Dragging 101
Edit: And like they said, downshifting too much defeats the setup - use the torque and higher gear.
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