Subframe/seat holes striped (Help)

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mattone

Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2012
Messages
14
Hey guys I got my xb12r 06 back form the local HD dealer. I look at the two bolts to remove the seat and one of the tapped holes was striped and they cracked my seat. They will not fix what they have done to my bike. Any one got any suggestion to fix the problem. I'm more pissed off about the striped hole on the subframe then the sit.
help!!!
 
95D967BD-1745-4560-B0B9-3EC342111B74-2974-0000022F6786E503.jpg.html

http://m1220.photobucket.com/albumv...40D5C71B44-2974-0000022F5B3136CC.jpg.html?o=3
 
That's ridiculous

how far up the management chain did you talk to?
Yeah thats insane. If someone did something like that to a car at our shop we'd be fixing it or paying for it. Id bitch a fit to the manager/owner.
 
I cant talk to the owner till Monday.
Total cost to fix myself is
$175 - subframe
$70-200 - seat
 
The holes in the subframe are rivnuts. You can drill them out and install a new one. Harley doesn't have them, they want you to buy the whole subframe. Here's a link to rivnuts. We use them in aviation a lot. They are easy to install, once you've done it a time or two. It's a by feel/art sorta thing to install them right. I'd suggest practicing a couple on a piece of scrap aluminium first.
 
Fire how would you go about getting one of them rivet nuts out if it spins in the tubing do you know?
 
how would you go about getting one of them rivet nuts out if it spins in the tubing do you know?


Push down harder....... Lol.

Somtimes wedging a flat head under the edge works too.
 
your pic is hard to see what's left of the rivnut, if there's a lip you could try to grip it and pull her out, if not...may have to drill the head off and the body will fall into the frame, if you can't drill it may have to use a punch and push it through, there's nowhere for it to go...you may need to go oversize on the new rivnut (next size up) if the original hole is f'd up, best to use a keyed rivnut if you can, but not necessary, just snug the screw up, could use light strength loctite if you want when you install the seat...****make sure you choose the right rivnut, grip range, head style...also if you know the thickness of the material to which it will be installed in*** if you need a chart, let me know
 
Harley dealerships carry the replacement rivnuts.
P/N 11604
Fastener, Rivnut

FYI - They're 1/4 20 thread.

From a quick Google search, it looks like they're about a buck a piece, depending on the dealership. I also see them on Amazon here at 6 bucks for 10. You can find them elsewhere by simply Googling for "1/4 20 rivnut".

I had the same thing happen to my frame rivnuts. I got my replacements from HD, then used a dab of JB weld to install them after drilling out the old stripped rivnuts. The JB weld option works perfectly for the rivnut installation (they're not under a lot of torque in this application) and is cheaper than spending $60-80 for the proper rivnut gun to install them properly. I can't justify the cost of the tool when I might use it once or twice in my lifetime.
 
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Thx for all the help and info.
Now I need to replace that crack seat any idea's on a nicer seat. (aftermarket)
 
When my rivenuts stripped(happened twice), I drilled a 1/8" whole perpendicular to the rivnut throught the subframe and right into the rivnut. I then took a small punch and put it in the hole to keep the rivnut from turning while I took out the torx screw. I then tapped the hole I drilled and the rivnut with a 5mm tap and put some small stub screws in there. Problem solved
 
Rivnuts are not rocket surgery. here's a homemade installation tool. I think it's probably a better idea than jb weld... the tools themselves are really only about $30. I've got several in several threads sizes for aviation stuff.

These are what I use at work. NOTE: this is 1/4 28, not 1/4 20. If you use 1/4 28 bolts instead of 1/4 20, not big deal.

Another option, the ASB studs, or make your own, and never worry about the seat bolts again. Depending on how bad your threads are now, MAY be able to JB weld those studs in and never have a problem again. Also, the cotter pin would pretty much solve your seat tab problem.
 
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I have this same issue on my 2010 (the only thing wrong with it!), the previous owner messed up the threads while changing the battery out apparently. My question is can you pull them out through the top, or is the only possible way to push them down into the frame? I would think they would rattle around in the frame if you push them down through, no?

Thanks!
Matt
 
Only way I know of is to drill the top off and push them into the frame. Really, that's what we do with them on aircraft. They are used because they go into a blind area, IE, no rear access. I'd think though, if you thought it would bother you that bad, you could pull the whole rear subframe and get them out...
 

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