SWITCHING TO ROYAL PURPLE!

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josh909

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Jan 11, 2010
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well this last february, my warranty ended and its now time for my 10,000 service which i will perform myself dealership said 6.5 hrs and 427.00 in labor cost alone!!! so im goin to put all royal purple lubricates, and top that off with a k&n oil filter.
Royal Purple OIL Max-Cycle 10W40
Royal Purple Synchromax Manual Trans Fluid
K&N KN-171B BUELL, HARLEY DAVIDSON Oil Filter

ANYONE DONE THIS ALREADY?
 
I switched to RP in my car and I was very happy for the first two months. After that it lost it's pazaz. It was no longer as smooth as it was to start, and it started to feel like really crappy oil. I do not recommend Royal Purple unless you plan on changing it every 2 weeks. RP is a race oil, and is not meant for average use.
 
Dave - I don't think putting any kind of high quality oil will help you with you 92 Chevy Cavelier
 
Just did mine last week for my 5000 mi service. RP Max-Cycle 20/50 in both holes. Noticed that it shifts much smoother, not the annoying clunk when going into gear. Could be that it is just fresh oil, seems to be staying quiet after 300 mi though. Razman
 
I, and many others, use Royal Purple Max Cycle 20W50 in both the Engine & Primary with nothing but good things to say about it. [up]
 
I would pass on the K&N oil filter. I used one on my truck and did not like it. Seemed to starve the motor on startup. I'm sticking with WIX for the rest of my life ! lol
 
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switched to RP,was using amsoil..... so far can't tell the difference.
 
im using 10W40 not 20W50 will this affect anything if i put it in the primary i know i could use smoother shifts? also i love k&n filters i did my 5000 with one and was happy. and yes i have a fresh set of iridium plugs for it! and the nice thing about using oil in the primary is itll save me a few bucks.
 
I'm on the Lucas stuff, it smoothed the shift for the first week, but it's slowly starting to get clunky again, not as bad as it was but it's not smooth like buttah.
 
Don't put 1040 in your trans.if you have an air cooled twin I wouldn't recommend it fir the engine either.
If you mean 80-90 syncromesh trans I wouldn't put that in the trans/primary either
not a fan if rp ran it a few years . But running off there recomenditon of 1040 in the trans nearly trashed second gear then add in a few ruined 4x4 lockers I decide it is all hype.
Put 2050 in it both holes
 
IMO

Rp is Hype.

Put some on a load testing rig and see what it does to the amp gauge.

Next look at the scar wear on the insert.

Also from the automotive industry every car/truck that used a disk plate limited slip/posi rear ends that came in Making Noise. These started making noise with the Rp oils after a few weeks. First we change it out and put in new oil to see if the issue goes away. In the 50% of the cases that were caught early it did. The bad cases well they spent about 1000.00 + for repairs.

IMO I don't recommend it cause all oil companies lie to the public people because they marketers get skewed data. what they give to the big league racers and marketing reps is not whats on the shelf at the auto parts stores. If you think its the same stuff, I have Indian Ocean front property in Kansas for sale. Want some? lol

you can make a home made test station with a AM meter, electric motor with cup to hold oil and metal wheel and a leverage bar that holds a piece of bearing material you can get used from a Auto repair shop. With leverage good oil will have low amps no scar. bad oil will lock up and/or scar as well as high amps on the guage with the same lbs of pressure.
search till you find a oil that you can apply the most force in lbs. That's the best to use hands down.

This eliminates all marketing hype. you will be shocked at your findings. I know I was.

mike
 
in the service manual it says that in cold weather starts below 40f that 1040 is the best? with 2050 being next in line!
 
Royal Purple Synchromax Manual Trans Fluid MAY NOT Be a good ideal to put in the primary , it says it for motorcycle GEAR BOX and Synchromax is fully compatible with all types of friction materials, but is it really compatiable or good for your WET CLUTCH . it does not mention wet clutch and
the MAX CYCLE motorcycle oil from RP is wet clutch compatible and recommend by RP to use in the primary(clutch) and engine oil. also because of it being maybe more slippery ; The purpose of the oil in a wet clutch is to cool, not to lubricate. The more 'slippery' an oil is, the more likely a clutch is to slip, resulting in increased heat and creating excessive wear. One element of the JASO-MA standard is a friction test designed to determine suitability for wet clutch usage. An oil that meets JASO-MA is considered appropriate for wet clutch operations. Oils marketed as motorcycle-specific will carry the JASO-MA label.
Some oils contain friction reducing chemicals. These oils are unsuitable for motorcycles.

also some trans fluids can be and are known to be very chemical reactive with different fluids causing very fast premature degrading of seals and rubber bushings(cars) in transmissions. I would be very cautious putting in your buell.

RP makes very goood products and use RP in my vehicles and RP maxcycle in my buell. but they are all made for very specific USE .

PLEASE before doing this I would reccomend calling RP and asking them for their thoughts on putting Synchromax Manual Trans Fluid in your buell, and ask them what they recomend in the engine and in WET CLUTCH PRIMARY Buell.

Unsure about which product is right for your application? Contact Royal Purple’s Technical Support department toll-free at 888-382-6300 or Email Technical Support.
 
(2008 1125R) I change my oil every thousand miles cause I run my bike over 100mph or more (130 for 2 miles at a times) for extended periods of time. Even after 1000 miles, MOST of the oil is gone. Since I run the engine hard I decided to quit using Royal Purple cause monthly oil changes are expensive. Especially when the oil is 17 bucks a quart. It was good but you would have just as much luck with Mobil 1 or Castrol.

By the way, the engine doesnt run much cooler at all with RP. I like the oil but I think competitors have products that are just as good for half the price.
 
well i believe my mind is made up imma go with 10w40 in the oil tank with a quart of 20w50 in the primary! this sounds good...RIGHT?
 
I found Brad Penn oil, Schaffers, mystic, redline, Amsoil racing my top 5 picks.

I also tested additives in a few different oils the zinc additives gave the best scar and heat protection. zmax did nothing at all, as well as stp and prolong same issue with the oil on the wear test and loads amp per lbs of pressure.

I would have to rig up another test station at home. which is something I need to do and film the test.

we also tested the oil heated with a spin rig at 10000 rpm. it nothing more than a disk and motor. you soak the heated disk and oil and crank it up to 10000 rpm. now slowly remove the oil from the disk. and watch as you go out to the edge the oil is not sticking. crappy oil looks like a rooster tail where good oil that's bonding under heat will still try to wrap up the spinning part over the top. Its these real world crazy wacky test that shows if it does not stick it doesn't work. you can do this with a drill a metal cup and shield. Another thing is the hot oil after you remove the wheel from the oil and let it spin leaves almost no oil on the wheel when you wipe it with a towel if its junk where good oil has a heavy film all over it.

for the Am gauge they have them on e-bay to build the gauged electric motor machine . Mine was 10.00 used.


mike
 

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