TAKING TO THE DEALER UNLESS I HAVE A BETTER ALTERNATIVE!

[ReadyXB]

ECMSpy version? Where did you buy the cable? Please provide this information as the answers give much-needed detail into solving your issue.

I will assume this is ECMSpy for Mono... -IF- your cable uses a genuine FTDI chipset, ECMSpy for Mono has built-in FTDI D2XX drivers and can connect without requiring the standard Virtual COM Port drivers (what you would normally download and install). In this case, the "Failed to load FTD2XX.DLL..." message can be safely ignored, or to get rid of it, just install the FTDI VCP drivers.

If you have an FTDI cable, then choose "FTDI TTL..." rather than a "COM X" on the Serial Port selection pop-up when connecting!

As for "Timed out waiting for ECM response, you will only see that in the cases I mentioned previously, and I'll add one more:
1. Data Link Cable issue:
a. loose/poorly crimped wire inside cable's plug
b. pin sockets have recessed back into the plug
c. cable not fully inserted into bike's data link socket

2. Wrong COM port chosen (assuming you have multiple COM ports)
-> choose "FTDI TTL..." if you have an FTDI cable
3. Bad ECM and/or data link socket wiring issues
4. Choosing the wrong ECM type (could attempt to connect at the wrong baud rate)

 

[July4]

Yes, the program is ECMSpy for Mono, I believe the site is hosted in Germany.
The cable is from ECMCABLE.COM Clear version (CFA-ECM-P1-CLR). Also says "USB V2.0 TTL 5VDC"
Not sure if that means it is FTDI, but it was about $35 bucks.
We downloaded drivers, but there seem to be multiple choices for this. So we downloaded several.
The computer seems to be recognising the USB port we are using as soon as I plug it in, but it does not ask for a driver at that point.
The program asks which ECM and the choices start with "stock" and then go to more advanced versions as you go down the list. The used ECM I have is suposedly stock so I chose the first option.
The cable was inserted in the data link fully until the connector lock clicks.

I think that first error message is the problem ( "failed to load [email protected]. Are the FTDI drivers installed?)
Not sure how to fix that issue.

I do appreciate you guys taking the time to help! I'd be even more lost without this. Hope this helps others.

 

[ReadyXB]

The product page says "Includes latest revision FTDI or Prolific USB-to-TTL Module...", so that doesn't tell us which chip version your cable uses.

In Device Manager, expand Serial Ports, double-click on your COM port (USB Serial Port (COM X)), select the Driver tab, and what does it say for "Driver Provider"?

You didn't say - have you tried connecting as "FTDI TTL..." rather than a "COM X" on the Serial Port selection pop-up? Is that choice even available, or do you only see COM ports in the pull-down list?

Stock ECM sounds like the correct choice, but you can safely choose any of the other ECM types, just as a connection test.

I think that first error message is the problem ( "failed to load [email protected]. Are the FTDI drivers installed?)
Not sure how to fix that issue.

As I mentioned, IF your cable uses the FTDI chipset, then you can safely ignore the message. Or, you can install the FTDI VCP drivers (link already provided) which will get rid of the message. But if you don't have an FTDI cable, then you don't want to install the FTDI drivers. If you want to double-check this advice, please read it for yourself on the ECMSpy.com User Guide page -> Hardware Drivers (bottom of page).

 

[sherm]

I am not sure what you have already been through in your other thread, but I just found and fixed what sounds like a similar issue on my STT. I would be riding the bike and it would be fine for a while (sometimes a week) and then it would start bucking HARD, backfiring, and stalling. This failure was unpredictable and very irregular so it was hard to trace. It finally stalled completely while I was close to work, so I went with a hunch I had acquired from reading about similar issues and scoped the cam position sensor. The sensor produced a clear square wave at idle and the signal went to flat line with static off idle while the bike was popping and dying. I ordered and replaced the cam sensor and it did nothing... In my frustration I was explaining to my friend that all the sensors I had codes for run into the grey plug on the ecm. I unplugged it and pulled the harness up to inspect the connector side and noticed the worlds smallest chafe on the harness where it routes past the negative terminal. I unwrapped the harness there and found the red/white wire that supplies 5V to all engine sensors was chaffed to the battery negative and causing all my issues. Repaired the chafe, added a rubber collar to keep it from happening again and all is good now. You may want to look there if you haven't already, and look again even if you have. All of this was after I had done preliminary checks for wiring issues and other possible causes and I missed it. Hope that helps and you get it back on the road soon.

 

[July4]

I've looked closely and unwrapped it twice now. Didn't find anything further. Have also added plastic corrugated "armor" like the factory did in other places but strangely not on the ECM wires.

 

[thrstrmech]

what do you wires look like coming out of the ecm? bent over hard? do you have any pin/socket extractors? disconnect your battery and pin point the wire that's not providing power and extract it from the connector, check the wire crimp...is the wire securely crimped, light tug on the wire and pin? insert it back into the connector and check the pin has seated properly, use the insertion end of the extractor tool. electrical contact cleaner on both ends of the connectors and let dry thoroughly. use a flash light to make sure the pins are seated in the connector. pins/sockets can back off if not inserted correctly when making a connection. reconnect and and try the ignition again.

 

[July4]

I pulled the plack plug out from the ECM and removed the little orange wedge from the bottom. All the pins are seated fine and look pristine. I've previously cleaned this with electrical cleaner as well as the pins on the ECM.
I checked with the ohm meter again from the black ECM connector down to the brown/y wire on the end of the harness where the fuel pump harness connects, seems fine. I'm a little unsure how to get the little orange rubbery top off the black connector where the wires enter the connector. I'm guessing you carefully pry with a small screwdriver? This thing is not interested in coming out. Any tricks here?

 

[July4]

I got this message from the cable maker. "This is Prolific PL2303HXD Chipset THIS WILL WORK WITH Windows XP/Vista/Win7/8/8.1/10."
It doesn't tell me much except that the software should work without the drivers we downloaded.

Thrstmech- the wires from the ECM are not bent over terribly, just what you would expect given their proximity to the seat.

 

[ReadyXB]

That is correct. Since it is not an FTDI chip, you can ignore the "Failed to load FTD2XX.DLL..." message from ECMSpy. But you still need to have the Prolific drivers installed, if they are not already.

Check in Device Manager. Which COM port number is assigned to your cable?

 

[July4]

I believe it said COM #5, something like that.

 

[ReadyXB]

IF you are choosing the correct COM port for the cable, and if there are no COM port warnings/errors in device manager (please verify), then that timeout message means that there is a communication issue between cable and bike. This leaves only two possibilities:a problem with the cable, or with the ECM/bike wiring.

Don't overlook the cable. See the items I suggested to check. Look inside the end of the cable's plug and be sure there are three pins flush with the plastic end-cap. You can also remove the cable plug's rear rubber seal and inspect the wiring crimps. Give the wires a gentle tug and see if any come out.

If the cable is 100%, then the problem is most likely on the ECM/harness side. You said that grounding pins 1-2 worked to produce the trouble codes, so that only leaves pin 3 (Tx) to check.

Other things to narrow down the problem:
1.Try Tunerpro RT
2. Try all the ECM type options in ECMSpy in case you don't have a stock ECM.

 

[July4]

I think I'm out of time, Glendale Harley is picking it up at 4 PM and I'm here at work [smirk]. I hope I don't get screwed on this!

 

[DougH]

Its a Harley shop, of course you'll get screwed. Has just kidding. Hope they fix it all up fast for you.

 

[July4]

Heey, no negative waves here! Everyone clasp their hands together over their chest and give me an Ohm.
1, 2, 3 . . . . OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHMMMMMMM !

(funny, it's even spelled the same as the electrical ohm I've been chasing).

 

[lowkey]

Hope you don't get screwed... If it's anything more than bolting on chrome bits, it's usually beyond the scope of a Harley tech! Haha

If they give you some BS right off the bat, I'd pull out and find a real shop to fix the problem, consider that they have most likely never touched a buell, so really what's the worry of taking it to a good mechanic who also has never worked on a buell.