TPS not responding on ECMspy

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"OK, so removed ONLY the stack and it runs great. How the hell is a rubber seal related to detecting potential CPS failure?"

Because of the extremely limited amount of diagnostic info given. Ahem... "Your answers will only ever be as good as your questions":eagerness:

Glad its running for now, hope it still does once its together:up:

FYI, CPS=Cam position sensor and CPS=Crank position sensor.
The difference is pre, or post, Thunderstorm engines (DDFI-2 and DDFI-3). The crank position sensor gives higher resolution input to the ECM because its spinning twice as fast as the cams do.
 
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OK, so removed ONLY the stack and it runs great. How the hell is a rubber seal related to detecting potential CPS failure?

Completely unrelated (has no effect on the sensor). Fully seat the velocity stack, there is a lip on the manifold that sits inside the rubber velocity stack when properly seated, use a silicone lube like sil-glyde to get it seated if you have to.
 
oh my. So I read Chickn's reply as "remove stack...can you use more than 20%? throttle (next line) Yes - CPS...." I interpreted that as if it runs well without the stack, that's indicative of a bad CPS. Can you hear that smack of palm to forehead?
I've looked at the stack very carefully so I know exactly what you mean by the inner and outer seals/ the lip on the manifold. It's really hard to get to seat - gonna try some to track down a silicone based lube thang. Trying to be forceful yet gentle cuz tracking parts for these things is getting tricky.
3 pages deep at this point, kinda funny if it's just a case of 'push harder!' to cure my woes.
 
I ran a tps reset with ecmspy today. Basically download any drivers to make sure the cable your using connects. Verify by turning key and ignition run switch on. Then flick throttle to see if ecm is connected in ecmspy. As for buelltooth, I'm using pc so yeah not sure.

But then to reset tps, um after connection established. I registerd ecmspy for free actually, then activated. but there is a tps reset tab, which gives instruction on the reset. pretty simple if your PC is communicating thru the cable to the ecm
 
I thought the crank position sensor was called a "CKP"

ckp.JPG
 
oh my. So I read Chickn's reply as "remove stack...can you use more than 20%? throttle (next line) Yes - CPS...." I interpreted that as if it runs well without the stack, that's indicative of a bad CPS. Can you hear that smack of palm to forehead?
I've looked at the stack very carefully so I know exactly what you mean by the inner and outer seals/ the lip on the manifold. It's really hard to get to seat - gonna try some to track down a silicone based lube thang. Trying to be forceful yet gentle cuz tracking parts for these things is getting tricky.
3 pages deep at this point, kinda funny if it's just a case of 'push harder!' to cure my woes.

Sorry if my response was a little misleading. I thought the two separate thoughts, being two separate paragraphs would be self explanatory. But I can see how it was confusing.

Use a zip tie to hold the ends of the retaining spring ring, for the velocity stack together. This will hold the retaining ring wide open so you can use two hands to try to seat the velocity stack properly.

Hope that helps and seriously hope it doesn’t confuse you. Definitely not my intentions to mislead.
Good luck
 
Nope, that's all me. 2 other people read it and interpreted it the way you meant. The separate paragraph should been a sign.
Yeah I've used the zip tie trick before, works great. This is embarrassing if it was really just a matter of about a 1/4" to get a real deal seal.
 
Hey, it’s all good. I’m glad your issue was that simple.
And trust me, you’re not the first to have experienced this issue and you won’t be the last!
 
Following up: so before this problem, I changed rocker box gaskets, changed oil/filter, changed primary oil, and did the obligatory TPS reset. Who knows the last time that was reset. Reassembled once again, got a proper seal with the velocity stack and bike is running amazing!! It was running good before but now it's awesome.

To future troubleshooters - if your bike is dying only under acceleration / getting onto the throttle (20% maybe less, maybe more) - check that your velocity stack is completely seated and sealed.
Thank you to all the dudes that aided me on this dubious journey!
I owe you many beers.
 
Following up: so before this problem, I changed rocker box gaskets, changed oil/filter, changed primary oil, and did the obligatory TPS reset. Who knows the last time that was reset. Reassembled once again, got a proper seal with the velocity stack and bike is running amazing!! It was running good before but now it's awesome.

To future troubleshooters - if your bike is dying only under acceleration / getting onto the throttle (20% maybe less, maybe more) - check that your velocity stack is completely seated and sealed.
Thank you to all the dudes that aided me on this dubious journey!
I owe you many beers.

Also, and I’m not trying to take a cheap shot at you personally, BUT if you’re new to wrenching on your Buell or Buells in general follow the advice that is given. Don’t assume everything is correct with your assembly/mechanics if you have a problem that did not exist prior to performing maintenance.

The velocity stack was mentioned 6days ago....

A lot of guys/gals that are new to the forum and Buells too often blow off good advice.

I’m glad you’ve got your bike back to better than before running condition. Also glad that you didn’t give up, as frustrating as it must have been, and saved yourself A TON of dough by figuring it out!

Stay safe
 

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