So my bike (04 12R) has had this problem since I got it. Every once in awhile the trip and clock will reset when I try to start it. I've been through 3 batteries and still the same thing. I just replaced the starter and battery, and it happened again. Anyone have a clue? Loose connection or is the dash going bad?
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Trip and clock reset on start
- Thread starter nzaneb
- Start date
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Kuntreeboy
Well-known member
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- Apr 29, 2011
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Mine has been doing it as well except mine reset's like it is out of gas also and the low fuel trip comes on also!!
Stevenc150
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- Aug 12, 2008
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Pull off your battery connections and Frame grounds and sand all connectors and connection points, lightly apply dielectric grease to everything. See if it helps.
user_deleted
Well-known member
[up]to steven. my 04 firebolt did exactly the same thing and occasionally the relay would even click like battery dead. cleaning the ground strap under airbox and all other battery connections solved it. the clock resetting was really annoying and did it all the time. steven's advice was dead spot on.
user_deleted
Well-known member
there's a ton more knowledge on this site than i possess about XB's but a common ailment seems to be grounds and connections or lack thereof. keep working on those grounds and the battery connections/terminals and i think you'll find the problem solved.
garyphantom222
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- Dec 12, 2009
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I find that keeping my 07 firebolt on a trickle charger when not riding it cured my problem with this,I also check for loose connections anyway just in case.
Iamarchangel
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Clock resetting is power being cut.
Check connections, if good then check wires.
Doubt it can be the battery, it has to be pretty dead to reset the clock.
Three batteries in that time? Do you take a lot of short rides, less than half an hour?
Check connections, if good then check wires.
Doubt it can be the battery, it has to be pretty dead to reset the clock.
Three batteries in that time? Do you take a lot of short rides, less than half an hour?
Iamarchangel
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Some people have been finding frayed wires under the positive boot.
Hello, and welcome to the forum. Have you done a Voltage check With the Battery fully charged? Even if it's new Especially if it's an aftermarket Battery.
Grounds of course should be checked all over the bike. Your Bike needs at the Least 200CCA / Cold Cranking Amps of power.Do Not use a Battery Charger to help you start the Engine.
The Battery should be all thats needed for that, unless you keep a spare just like the one need to run your Engine. Has any mods on lighting been done anywhere on the bike? Especially the Dual Headlite Mod!
These bikes are not designed for that type of modification and every day riding in traffic. There are othe ways to get more lighting for night Riding.
What ARE the miles on the bike? Make sure to check the relays and HAVE the Battery Load Checked out of the Bike.
Don't jump start the bike with another Vechicle running the Battery is only 200cca-and can really mess up the ECM or other areas of the Charging system. These bikes only have anywhere from 30 to 35 amp Stators TO 65 amps Stators(big Twims)so Start from the top and Take your time learning your Machine.
The Manuals are at the top of the page for helping you to keep your bike running.Some of the information is still good for certain bikes and still can give you a place to start.Post up!*Jimi
Grounds of course should be checked all over the bike. Your Bike needs at the Least 200CCA / Cold Cranking Amps of power.Do Not use a Battery Charger to help you start the Engine.
The Battery should be all thats needed for that, unless you keep a spare just like the one need to run your Engine. Has any mods on lighting been done anywhere on the bike? Especially the Dual Headlite Mod!
These bikes are not designed for that type of modification and every day riding in traffic. There are othe ways to get more lighting for night Riding.
What ARE the miles on the bike? Make sure to check the relays and HAVE the Battery Load Checked out of the Bike.
Don't jump start the bike with another Vechicle running the Battery is only 200cca-and can really mess up the ECM or other areas of the Charging system. These bikes only have anywhere from 30 to 35 amp Stators TO 65 amps Stators(big Twims)so Start from the top and Take your time learning your Machine.
The Manuals are at the top of the page for helping you to keep your bike running.Some of the information is still good for certain bikes and still can give you a place to start.Post up!*Jimi
Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
Yes I do take mostly short rides. I only live a few miles from work, and don't get to ride much any other time.
When I replaced the starter, I had determined that it had a grounded field coil. I'm not sure if that was the cause for killing the batteries, but both batteries that were in the bike with the original starter are useless (won't pass a load test)
After I put the latest battery in, it has only done it once (right after I put it in). I charged it, but maybe it wasn't long enough.
I have also started to tap the start button once, before I hold it down to start. The problem seems to have rectified itself, or my new starting technique has effectively mitigated the problem.
@Jimi - There are roughly 12K miles on the bike. And I definitely know better than to jump a bike off of a car or something similar [up]. Other than a hawk exhaust, a race ecm, and the stereotypical airbox mod and breather reroute, there are no other mods done on the bike. I've had the manual downloaded for over a year now, great resource [up]
Yes I do take mostly short rides. I only live a few miles from work, and don't get to ride much any other time.
When I replaced the starter, I had determined that it had a grounded field coil. I'm not sure if that was the cause for killing the batteries, but both batteries that were in the bike with the original starter are useless (won't pass a load test)
After I put the latest battery in, it has only done it once (right after I put it in). I charged it, but maybe it wasn't long enough.
I have also started to tap the start button once, before I hold it down to start. The problem seems to have rectified itself, or my new starting technique has effectively mitigated the problem.
@Jimi - There are roughly 12K miles on the bike. And I definitely know better than to jump a bike off of a car or something similar [up]. Other than a hawk exhaust, a race ecm, and the stereotypical airbox mod and breather reroute, there are no other mods done on the bike. I've had the manual downloaded for over a year now, great resource [up]
Of course I had to go and open my mouth... damn thing just took a shit again.
Riding down the road the check engine light came on, gauges reset, and it started to sputter. Turned it off, started up after a minute, higher RPM and the light stayed off, lower RPM and it came on and wanted to die... luckily I was only a few blocks from the house.
Got it home, hooked it up to ECM spy, only thing it showed was the the air box sensor was unhooked (which it was, as I pulled the air box to check for the engine ground). So I then ran a few of the diagnostics test, which essentially killed the battery, it wouldn't even turn on the dash (Just a dull buzz and very faint lights). This is the same thing that happened before. Even after a full charge, this is all the battery will do... $^&%&* great.
Stator, Regulator, Short ...?
Riding down the road the check engine light came on, gauges reset, and it started to sputter. Turned it off, started up after a minute, higher RPM and the light stayed off, lower RPM and it came on and wanted to die... luckily I was only a few blocks from the house.
Got it home, hooked it up to ECM spy, only thing it showed was the the air box sensor was unhooked (which it was, as I pulled the air box to check for the engine ground). So I then ran a few of the diagnostics test, which essentially killed the battery, it wouldn't even turn on the dash (Just a dull buzz and very faint lights). This is the same thing that happened before. Even after a full charge, this is all the battery will do... $^&%&* great.
Stator, Regulator, Short ...?
On an added note:
None of the connectors are faulty (checked connection through all of them)
There doesn't appear to be any loose grounds (Main ground and steering neck are fine... where is the one on top of the engine?)
I have no chafed or burned wires anywhere, that would appear to be grounding out.
Before I put it on the road last time. The milliamp draw tested fine, battery voltage and load tested fine. Voltage while running was around 13-13.4 (depending on revs).
None of the connectors are faulty (checked connection through all of them)
There doesn't appear to be any loose grounds (Main ground and steering neck are fine... where is the one on top of the engine?)
I have no chafed or burned wires anywhere, that would appear to be grounding out.
Before I put it on the road last time. The milliamp draw tested fine, battery voltage and load tested fine. Voltage while running was around 13-13.4 (depending on revs).
wally
Well-known member
I had a short on my starter motor, which caused havoc and would reset the trip counter. I ended up pulling out of HD dealership after having faulty starter connection fixed and ran out of petrol before leaving shopping centre!
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