Uly Newbie question

[1125RBlaster]

I just picked up a 2006 Uly and I have a bunch of questions. I know to post in the specific folder, but I am also on BWB forum too. Is it okay to cross post because I know there are many users on both sites?

Thanks
Jeremy

 

[noone1569]

Yeah, no problem at all

 

[1125RBlaster]

Here is the background. Bought a 2006 XB12X that has been sitting for at least 2 years. the bike is mostly stock, but have some cosmetic aftermarket stuff. Here is a list of thing that I plan on changing/inspecting:

1. Change primary oil
2. Change engine oil and filter
3. Change air filter (found mouse nest between filter and airbox cover) Intake was clear of mouse debris.
4. Replace battery (as it was dead when purchased)
5, Replace front and rear brake pads (rear visibly bad)
6. Replace o-ring on clutch cable at primary
7. Inspected all visible wires and cables for mouse damage, nothing noted.

Now for the questions
1. there is fuel in the tank, how to drain and flush it out?
2. how would I drain/clean the fuel lines to TB?
3. Do I need to do anything with the TB since its been sitting?
4. are there any other things I need to do before I can try to start it?
5. since doing this should I take a look at the fuel pump wiring issue?
6. is the breather re-route something that should be taken care of?
7. is the right side scoop worth the cost?
8. the tires look okay and was told they only had 500 miles on them before it was parked, now sitting for 2 years, should they be replaced?

I think that are all the question and concerns that I have for right now, please let me know if there are others things I should look into before trying to start it up.

Thanks for any feedback and answers.
Jeremy

Here is the new bike.

 

[user_deleted]

there is fuel in the tank, how to drain and flush it out? drain plug at pump area....lower left corner of frame/tank. do it outside if at all possible. flush thru this plug and filler cap.

there is fuel in the tank, how to drain and flush it out? no.

how would I drain/clean the fuel lines to TB? not necessary

since doing this should I take a look at the fuel pump wiring issue? not unless it doesn't prime....and not unless the low fuel dash display non-functional

is the breather re-route something that should be taken care of? you can while you're in their cleaning out the mouse ****.

is the breather re-route something that should be taken care of? yes.

the tires look okay and was told they only had 500 miles on them before it was parked, now sitting for 2 years, should they be replaced? if not cracked....sun-bleached....hold air ok....and no plugs or patches then they should be serviceable.

 

[user_deleted]

is the right side scoop worth the cost? absolutely yes

 

[1125RBlaster]

thanks for the feedback.

I plan on tackling these one at a time this weekend.

 

[noone1569]

Put some amsoil in that beast. I'll get it to you at cost.

Also located in Indy if you need a hand with anything. I need to do the clutch cable O ring on my uly as well

 

[1125RBlaster]

Thanks for the offer, I have a buddy that his dad is one of the original distributors in our region and offers it to me at cost also. I'm up in the northeast, but thanks for the helping hand offer. This is an extra bike that I picked up for a great deal, couldn't pass up, so its not a rush to get it up and running quickly. I just want to be thorough and do it right the first time.

 

[1125RBlaster]

UPDATE:
I looked at the 77 Connector, everything looks good so far, but I did order some submersible pump splice connectors to replace it.
I got all the old fuel out of the tank, wow it was almost 5 gallons worth, plus flushed about 1/5 gallon through it too.
Drained the engine oil, looked dirty, but didn't have any water/condensation.
Pulled the Primary access cover and the tranny oil looked brand new.
Inspected the ECM and noticed slight crack in the light grey connector, hoping that its still good. I noticed that I do not have the stand-off mounting block either. I can get ahold of some closed cell foam to put in top of the ECM for the time being. That or I could just move it too.
Tried to pull the lower air box out, but couldn't figure out how to get it past the rubber intake funnel.
I have an older battery to hook up and make sure that all the electronics are good.
I plan on running an oil/filter (Mobil 1 20w-50 and Purolator) for only about 100 or so miles and flushing it all out. Then putting in some good Amsoil.

I don't have the owners or service manual yet, how much engine oil does it take? I think I saw somewhere that's its 2.5qts.
Should I change out the primary fluid even if it looks clean and doesn't have a burnt smell?

Tires do not have any sidewall dry rot, only a few cracks between the treads and not sun bleached areas

I think that's about everything that I have inspected, cleaned, or ready for replacement.

Thanks to everyone for all the help and recommendations.

 

[Chicknstripn]

Wow, you're going above and beyond to make sure that ride is tip top!
You can find owners and service manuals at buellmods.com. That's where I got mine.
2.5 quarts is the correct amount. Also fill the oil filter when you do the change.
I would definitely change the primary fluid. I use Harley Davidson formula plus in my primary. I tried using synthetic when the bike was brand new but it made the clutch slip ever so slightly so I switched to the formula plus. I'm sure other members will suggest what they use. So do a little research and use what you think is best.
I think your tires will be fine. However, if the tires make you feel at all unsafe, I'd change them. Like I said, they should be fine but I don't like having anything distract me or give me an uneasy feeling when riding. If those tires do anything to make you second guess riding the bike then change them.

 

[1125RBlaster]

Thanks, and that is what I was thinking. I am very sensitive to the "feel" of the bike whether its the engine, tranny, or road feel. I will also have to keep a feel for the rear bearing issue too.

I have some of that HD Formula+ already, left over from sportster overhaul, I plan on using then since you recommend changing it. It takes the whole quart, right? I am going to try and pickup the rest of the items tonight, change the primary fluid and hook up a temp battery and see what happens.

 

[Tbone]

On the rubber air horn to the lower airbox plate/bottom, I use a plastic bicycle tire lever and pop it on.
Also check the front & rear wheel bearings while you are changing the brake pads.
Wow you really are doing this Uly right!

 

[user_deleted]

there are 4 Torx screws holding air box base plate to frame. remove them then take flat blade screwdriver and as you lift up the base plate, gently start to push the rubber flange down into the base plate hole. be gentle and apply upwards pressure on the plate as you continue to press the rubber flange into the hole. that exposes the top of motor and TB area including spark plug removal and install.

engine takes 2.5 quarts with full drain.....primary takes 1 quart with full drain.

if you plan on flushing oiling system as you mentioned simply pick up the cheapest oil filter and oil you can find and run for 50 miles max then drain. all toyota yaris/scion from 2007 and up with 1.5 liter engine filters fit all XB's. add 2.5 quarts of house brand 15-40 rotella-t type oil, ride, then drain and scrap the filter.

20-50 amsoil in the primary....any 20-50 top quality oil in the motor. wix filters are excellent. see above application.

 

[1125RBlaster]

Wow, didn't know diesel 15w-40 oil would work too, I have a bunch of that left over from the truck changes. That makes it even easier. There is only 1 drain plug on the swingarm right? I drained from the left side and didn't look at other side.

Tbone - how would I inspect the bearings other thank lifting the bike and spinning the when to listen for grinding.

Lunatic - thanks for the info on the bottom air box. I was pulling on it and it seemed to come off. Any worries about the breather hoses? I want to remove them from the airbox, but not sure what to use to fill the holes, unless leave them open for more air.

 

[1125RBlaster]

Another question, when refilling the primary, can I use the smaller access covers at the top or do I have to use the round one in the middle?

The smaller one would allow me to fill it with the bike on the jiffy stand instead of finding a method of keeping it upright by myself.

 

[Tbone]

Get the wheel off the ground and spinning it is how I do it.
I use a swing arm stand for the rear wheel while putting the front wheel in a tire chock stand with ratchet straps then spin the rear wheel and check for bearing play.
Then I use the same wheel chock stand and ratchet straps on the grab bars on the rear wheel, jack up the front end with an ATV jack under the muffler and spin the front wheel checking for play. Also check the stem bearings, handlebars, yoke bolts, etc.... while the wheel is up.

 

[mrlogix]

Inspected the ECM and noticed slight crack in the light grey connector, hoping that its still good. I noticed that I do not have the stand-off mounting block either. I can get ahold of some closed cell foam to put in top of the ECM for the time being. That or I could just move it too.

where is the crack on the connector. You might want to be real careful with putting foam or anything else that might put pressure on it. If it was me, I would put a drop of superglue on the crack (don't glue the connector to the ecm) to keep it from propagating.

 

[1125RBlaster]

The slight crack is where the connector meets the large black casing (red circle around area). I would take the foam and make it slightly smaller than the black square ECM without it touching the connectors. I have some double back sticky tape to keep it in place.



Not mine, just as an example of where the crack is.

 

[user_deleted]

1 drain plug left side lower on swingarm....1 drain plug bottom center of primary. they interchange. inspect O-ring on each. if questionable absolutely replace.
do NOT leave the 2 air box base plate holes open if doing breather re-route. go to auto parts store and buy a pair of trunk/body floor pan plugs. glue into place from BOTTOM....not top. that way if one ever becomes dislodged it will not get sucked into the TB assembly.
leave both primary and motor drain for several hours.
fill primary from either top window or derby cover....doesn't matter which.

 

[user_deleted]

yes to the above question....i own a few.