Uly Newbie question

[Tbone]

I would skip the foam on the ecm and relocate it lower, below the battery. there is room there to tuck it away and you can bolt it down with a small L bracket.

 

[1125RBlaster]

Tbone - do you happen to have a picture of that install.

Lunatic - didn't see your post until I was done with the oil and primary. Next change, 50-100 miles, I'll let it drain for several hours like you stated. I'll also look into the breather relocation after I get it running.

Removed the lower airbox, cleaned it all up and put it back.

I'll try to get a generic swingarm stand this weekend at harbor freight, I know they carried a couple different styles.

Well, I got the oil, filter, primary fluid, fresh gas, and a small battery bolted up. Turned the key and I got the dash to cycle, which looked normal. Kill switch to Run, fuel pump started to prime and stopped. Hit the start button, one rotation and the started just clicked. Crap, battery not powerful enough to crank the motor.

Since it wouldn't start, I decided to check al the lights and stuff and noticed the right blinker does not work. No fast blink, no relay click, just nothing. I checked the rear bulb and it looks good. Left front and rear work normally. Thinking it might be something in the handlebar switch housing.

 

[1125RBlaster]

sooo, as I was cleaning the lower airbox out last night I seemed to have pulled part of the foam gasket material out and ripped it. is this a replaceable piece? It sort of seems like its glued to the lower section. I wonder if generic window foam would work as a replacement as long as I got the correct width to fit in the channel. The original one smells so bad because of the nest I found.

I might have to replace the whole lower section because of the smell and the gasket issue.

 

[1125RBlaster]

I took the left side scoop off and was moving the cables around to try and see which one was for the right blinker. Since it was all wrapped up good I decided toeave it alone, but leave the scoop off for now.
I got the battery in the mail today, installed it, turned the key, run switch, and hit the start button....I can back to life without hesitation. Lots of valve clatter but that should clear up when the lifters fill back up. After a couple minutes, smooth as silk.
Shut it down and was looking for a place to put the ECM now. I decided to slide it in front of the battery box at an angle. There is a metal bracket there so I put some hard rubber and electrical tape on the bracket along with wrapping up the wires with tape too. It looks like the seat will fit fine. I have a picture of the location and tape job below. Oh and the right blinker now works too, must have moved the right bundle around.



Let me know if this is not a good location for the ECM.

 

[Chicknstripn]

I don't think you want it to be able to rattle around. I know you posted earlier that you found a crack at the base of the ECM where one of the connects hook up. Is that why you're relocating it?
Sorry if missed the reason why in one of your earlier posts.
Just silicone the crack and be done with it

 

[1125RBlaster]

relocating due to the crack issue. I will have to find a way to secure it so it doesn't rattle around. I don't have the block fix for the front bolt, unless i make something myself.

I am worried about siliconing the crack and putting it back where it was, won't it continue to crack and eventually fail?

 

[user_deleted]

if you have a small crack on one of the receiver ports......receiver port being the part of the ecm that accepts the plug....then clean the crack area and run a bead of super glue into the crack. do not use the gel stuff, just the standard stuff. it flows freely and bonds incredibly well to plastics. secure the ecm. don't let it rattle around.

 

[1125RBlaster]

Lunatic - when you say secure it do you mean in the original location or moved to where I posted above. Which is better to use: original super glue or some good silicone caulk?

Hoping the rest of the parts come in so I can button up the airbox, get the brakes replaced, and install the voltmeter. Btw, where does everyone tap into with the voltmeter, I know it install the meter on the dash, but not sure where to run the wired to.

 

[user_deleted]

ecm: you can use factory location and add the oem upgrade longer mounting bolt and protection block....or fabricate your own. or keep where you now have it and securely fasten as you deem acceptable.

superglue......not caulk.

remove brake fluid from front and rear master cylinder reservoirs during your brake job. replace with dot-4....NOT dot-5. if 4 not available 3 is acceptable. important to work the fresh fluid down-stream into each caliper. your brake components will thank you for it.

simplest feed for your volt meter is 4-wire headlight plug. orange is 12 volt positive....black is ground. do NOT cut either wire. just "nick" it and attach each volt meter lead.

 

[1125RBlaster]

Lunatic - what's the reasoning why not to cut the wires and to nick them only? How do you attaché to the nicked cables, solder, some type of crimp, or those inline connectors?

I actually have some DOT 3/4 brake fluid from a job a couple weeks ago, could I just use that or should I get dedicated DOT 4?

Thanks

 

[mrlogix]

better to use regular DOT 4 (good) and buy a new bottle (good). Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water from the air which in turn lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid (very bad) and will allow the internals of the calipers to rust (very bad). Anytime you open brake fluid, reseal it immediately or buy small bottles that you can use up quickly.

 

[Chicknstripn]

Check out this old thread I found on a voltmeter install. It's one of the better ones I've seen. This might help you out when deciding how to hook up the wiring and locate things
http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?37717-voltage-gauge-install-pics

 

[1125RBlaster]

rgr that mrlogix, I'll take care of that this weekend since I have to do the brake pads anyways.

Thanks Chick I'll take a look at that thread in the morning. I received the voltmeter in the mail today and would like to button up things to be able to take her out for a little trip this weekend. sort of a shake down ride.

 

[Tbone]

That is the exact ECM location, re location spot I used. I added a small L bracket to the bolt you see almost lined up with the eyelet on the ecm. Then I originally put foam on the other side of the ecm under the battery bracket. When I had the ECM replaced the foam was removed, and I left it that way with no problems so far. 20K miles with a crack in the ECM in that location until I finally had to replace it.