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Voltage regulator or alternator problems, need some help!

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BitchinXb

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 4, 2011
Messages
353
Yesterday ,I was riding and the rpms started to stick at 2,000rpms, then the engine light came on. I pulled over and got some gas and went to start it back up and i got a click, so my battery was dead. Tried to jump it but it wouldn't stay running. Went to get a new battery, put it in and everything was fine until the next day (Today). I started it up, no engine light everything was fine, ride down the road 5 miles and cut it off, and when i went to start again nothing. Got jumped off again and 2 mins later engine light came on. I made it to my house barely, it was trying to stall, all my light and guages were dead.

I put a voltage reader on the battery while it was idling and it was steady draining,so i figured my charging system is shot. But then i took the battery off and put the voltage reader on just the battery and it was still discharging, so maybe i had a bad battery. Took it back got another, and put it on the bike, start it up and everything was fine, but the engine light came on breifly then went away. Put the volt meter at idle on the battery and its very slowly draining. alot slower than the other battery.How can I kill a battery that fast, and not even ride 10 miles on a brand new battery, even if my charging system isnt working. It should last days until it will die. What should I check to eliminate alternator, or voltage regulator malfunctions?
 
work the problem as you would a car or any other bike by process of elimination. assuming your new battery is good, give it a strong overnite charge and check with voltmeter that you have approx. 12.5 volts. you can load test it then but assume it is ok. install and start bike. check with voltmeter at battery terminals with bike running at approx. 1500rpm and you should see 13.5-14.5 volts. these #'s are close enough to see if all is ok. if you see 12.5 volts or less check charging system. keep bike running with stator unplugged and check stator output at same rpm as above. should have 42-50 volts AC...not DC but AC. if you do then stator is ok and most likely regulator/rectifier. this is assuming wiring and grounds are in good shape. hope that helps.
 
Don't forget to look into any problems with the Voltage Regulator or Stator too. Good Luck:)
 
I am in the same boat right now. No charge, when the bike is on and revving battery is showing a drain and under 12V. I have a new volt reg on order for Christmas. If that does not fix it, then I get a new stator. If that does not fix it then I will take it somewhere.
 
volt reg; mine went out too. charged battery got 5 miles & crapped out; new regulator (the right year/model/bike regulator) and that was 17K miles ago [up]

on these bikes the volt reg is the middle man; without it the battery wont charge and the stator is wired thru the volt reg which feeds the battery
 
Hey I hope it's just the Regulator. I have some proper procedures for testing the Charging systems on the Bikes. Check stevenc150 Links where he has put many correct ways to work on the buells we have posted over time . You will need the Information so one thing at a time.
Read up on those postings so as to be able to diagnous your ride. You will need to check the Stator seperately from the rest of the Charging areas. Read up and if any Questions Post up. If you have SAY an Pre-07 Bike make sure to Check the Regulators Plug to check for melted inner Terminals. Corrosion etc..Also there is an upgrade kit for the Older Buells Regulator wire plug area.
08+ Buells have not had that problem it has had problems with the regulators. The Big V-Twins do it as well. Usually the XB Model Stator MIGHT go out at maybe 10,000 to 15,000miles.That is why changing the Transmission Fluid is so Important. AND why I use RedLine.
I extended my Regulator out AWAY from the front Cylinder 3/4 of an inch NO more than that!3/bolts & 3 hollow aluminum dowls from Ace Hrdwr.Try to use Allen Heads if possible. 1/inch long bolts unless you are going to cut short. The Heat frys the regulator that close to the XBs Front Cylinder. Make sure to insulate the longer threads running through the back of bracket so as not to rub through wires and short out something.
Small piece of vacuum hose slid over the extended threads. IF you ever change the STATOR buy new bolts to install when installing NEW the Stator. The Heads can pop off I've fixed many a bike here in the shop with a Lot of Damage due to just bolts fatigue and break off the bolt heads.due to heat and cheap bolts not being replaced at time of work being done. Remember they are from China!#%*?- Be Through young Skywalkers! Good Luck.*Jimi;)
 
OR.....you can keep it really simple and do charging system test with no tools required. charge battery, install, wait till dark, start bike, face headlight at white garage door or wall from about 10 feet away, rev bike. if headlight brightens charging system working. if not, start to trouble-shoot.
 
What about the opposite problem? I've hooked up a 38 amp stator and v reg to my 97 s1... I'm reading 16-17 volts... is my regulator fried?
 
most likely since I installed it. Apparently I was given the wrong wiring diagram. I found the correct one, and re-wired it tonight. No voltage.


Only reason I found out it was actually overcharging was because my HID's kept cutting out when I would rev. LoL. And here i was thinking it was vibration that was making the ballast go bad. They were actually turning off to protect the circuit.

Anyone have a spare voltage regulator to lend me? =]
 
I had my voltage reg go out last year. first it started blowing headlight bulbs,I thought at first It was wireing,but after hearing other people on the forum,I but my voltmeter on it.It was chargeing beyond 16v.I replaced it and problem solved.
 
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