What rpm

[Lightning166]

Hello all, I'm a new buell owner. I just got a 07 xb12s lightning in the cherry bomb red. It has previous mods from the original owner which include KnN air filter, ebr computer and a jardine slip on. The bike runs great. I have a question about what rpm you all run around in. Mine seems happiest anywhere above 3k rpm. Below it gets a little jerky. Not like a miss fire but slightly rough if you will. Is 3k rpm where the power band is on the buell? So anything less is lugging it?? Loving the bike so far and loving this forum.

 

[user_deleted]

NGK DCPR9EIX iridiums....a breather re-route....and a dedicated ground from rear coil mount bolt to negative battery cable ground attachment point cleans up most of the low speed herky-jerky stuff you alluded to....but in essence....any gear higher than 2nd and rev-counter lower than 2500 and the 1203's all protest....the 984's much less so.

 

[Dellinger]

Thanks for the ground wire tid-bit Lunatic...

Always learning here.

 

[vicenzajay]

So for the ground wire thing - does someone have some pics of the best way to do it on a Firebolt? My bike runs great - but I've seen this suggestion in numerous threads - sounds like something that maybe should be done as a matter of course.

I'll look around - my mind seems to remember that someone might have actually posted some pics...just can't remember where off hand. Any other details (wire gauge, etc.) that would be helpful?

 

[user_deleted]

So for the ground wire thing - does someone have some pics of the best way to do it on a Firebolt? My bike runs great - but I've seen this suggestion in numerous threads - sounds like something that maybe should be done as a matter of course.

I'll look around - my mind seems to remember that someone might have actually posted some pics...just can't remember where off hand. Any other details (wire gauge, etc.) that would be helpful?

pics not required....just follow my simple directions. something on the order of 16 gauge wire works fine. and always remember that in any negative ground vehicle the electrons DO NOT flow from positive source to the component.....they flow negative ground to the component and back to the positive source.
1-remove airbox cover, inner lid, filter, airbox base(4 orange loctite torx) exposing top of motor and coil.
2-coil mounts to large aluminum engine brace. remove rear coil mount bolt. now remove fastener that holds negative battery cable and ground cable to frame.
3-fabricate suitable wire to run from coil bolt to negative cable grounding point that you just unfastened. should have quality round eyelet ends....decent thickness. fabricate same...attach at both ends..tidy it all up...job done.
4-prior to replacing all air intake components remove both 7/16th bolts holding dog-bone ground wire in place. it is the large braided unshielded wire under the airbox base. clean and reinstall.
this is how it's done. you are NOT grounding the coil. you are simply adding another dedicated ground for the motor assembly to rely upon. in some cases it diminishes low speed stutter and coughing.

 

[user_deleted]

Thanks for the ground wire tid-bit Lunatic...

Always learning here.

yes sir. always my pleasure and thanks for the acknowledgement.

 

[vicenzajay]

Awesome - thanks. I'm going to do that the next time I need to get under the airbox. I need to come visit you!

 

[Lightning166]

Excellent thank you for the advise. non of these upgrades have been done on my bike yet.

 

[user_deleted]

Excellent thank you for the advise. non of these upgrades have been done on my bike yet.

always my pleasure. when you delve into the airbox assembly and "top of motor" viewing be damn careful what you do in/under there. no hidden secrets but tedious to explore those areas correctly. why?
1-base plate contains IAT switch. it must be unplugged and reconnected tenderly or the temp sensor portion will snap off from the plug portion rendering it useless.
2-the 4 base-plate torx screws factory installed with orange loc-tite compound. a touch of heat required to break loose AND top quality torx driver. strip the head out of 1 or more of these bolts which many have done and you're in for a long evening of bitching and swearing.
3-the large rubber air horn that connects the TB to base plate is tedious. it MUST be fully seated onto the TB...spring clamp installed....and spray the lip with silicone spray prior to reinstalling base plate. miss any of these steps and result is extremely poor running motor.