xb12R engine swapped into xb12ss

[kees koster]

Due to the weather situation I did not have a chance to see how new engine is going.
I seem to think that these type of engines, like my sportster, don't like fooling around with starting repeatedly and not going anywhere.
Next day I found that neutral switch light did not come on again, I unplugged little cable from neutral switch and cleaned it a bit with brake cleaner, I found also that plug is kind of loose fitting and could not think so quickly what to do about it other then solder a wire on but after the cleaning it stayed working.
Having the engine running in the garage I found that it was not very stable on the rpm's.
I am going to put some pictures on later, thanks for Oil tip
I do have a question though, are those valve lash adjusters not sensitive for thick oil?

 

[34nineteen]

You are right about these bikes not liking being started and not ridden. Probably worse than a Sporty.

You may have a tps sensor out of skew or a small air leak on the intake seals. Hopefully you refreshed those while the motor was out of the bike?

 

[kees koster]

donor ready for putting in then my controlled system to drop frame over motor with electric winch and then sort of ready
I regret that I did not look at anything on donor, noticed for example that back sparkplug seems impossible to get at.....

 

[Cooter]

Theres no valve lash to be adjusted, ever. Buells/Sportsters use hydraulic lifters:eagerness:

And they HATE being started more than a couple times. The cold-start enrichment is super fat and will foul your plugs very very easily. The Buell rule is do NOT start it unless you RIDE it. That includes winter storage as well. It is bad for many reasons to do that during winter.

Glad it's coming together

 

[kees koster]

Theres no valve lash to be adjusted, ever. Buells/Sportsters use hydraulic lifters:eagerness:

And they HATE being started more than a couple times. The cold-start enrichment is super fat and will foul your plugs very very easily. The Buell rule is do NOT start it unless you RIDE it. That includes winter storage as well. It is bad for many reasons to do that during winter.

Glad it's coming together

Good to hear what you are saying, just wait for a little better weather to go for a spin and hopefully everything clears up
I realized that there are hydraulic lifters , I used the wrong terminology, what I understand is that hydraulic lifters have fine orifices (holes) that can plug up and that is why I am wondering how thick oil can be. The user manual says "good" is 20w40 I just had 15W40 around in a big pale for my tractors and figured that is fine, and put bike oil in the gear box compartment/primary uh.. mobil 1 V twin

 

[34nineteen]

Good to hear what you are saying, just wait for a little better weather to go for a spin and hopefully everything clears up
I realized that there are hydraulic lifters , I used the wrong terminology, what I understand is that hydraulic lifters have fine orifices (holes) that can plug up and that is why I am wondering how thick oil can be. The user manual says "good" is 20w40 I just had 15W40 around in a big pale for my tractors and figured that is fine, and put bike oil in the gear box compartment/primary uh.. mobil 1 V twin

Before you get too far with this, why did the previous motor overheat? Its not like there is a radiator/water pump/coolant etc that could have caused this. You may want to research why it happened and resolve it before you have to do this again.

 

[kees koster]

I think all common factors are eliminated by swapping all the guts, I dont think there is anything left.
I believe the reason that old engine developed a knock in the bottom is lack of attention and keeping on riding while oil light came "on" and electric fan quit working.
Obviously I also swapped the fan, it was very clear why original fan was not working (could hardly turn it with my finger).
Interesting to know is that ECM had 1 error code that stood out for me at the time......"fan malfunction" or something with that same meaning

 

[kees koster]

Now the dust settled I started to fully understand what SQUIDBEULLIE was saying that was a very good tip and I learned something
I did not know for example that cam sensor activated the fuelpump (through ECM of course)
He wanted basically turn the engine with the back wheel and in 5th gear and at some point the camshaft sensor triggers the fuel pump and when that happens you can deduct that camshaft sensor is working.
However when I turned the rear wheel in neutral and key "on" the fuel pump came on, did not know what that supposed to mean.
On the hind side it became very clear to me that because I had the two 3-prong plugs mixed up (really stupid 1 is grey the other black) and speed sensor became therefor activator for the fuel pump

 

[34nineteen]

Now the dust settled I started to fully understand what SQUIDBEULLIE was saying that was a very good tip and I learned something
I did not know for example that cam sensor activated the fuelpump (through ECM of course)
He wanted basically turn the engine with the back wheel and in 5th gear and at some point the camshaft sensor triggers the fuel pump and when that happens you can deduct that camshaft sensor is working.
However when I turned the rear wheel in neutral and key "on" the fuel pump came on, did not know what that supposed to mean.
On the hind side it became very clear to me that because I had the two 3-prong plugs mixed up (really stupid 1 is grey the other black) and speed sensor became therefor activator for the fuel pump

That is part of the process for setting the timing.

https://youtu.be/2epTWjP5rfg

 

[kees koster]

Thank you 3419, that timing adjustment video was very good and answered a few of my questions
In my defense this is the first bike I worked on that is equipped with an injection system

 

[34nineteen]

glad to see you are getting it sorted out and back on the road. :up: