XB12XT Battery issues

[cterry66]

My 08 XT quit on me yesterday on a short ride around home. It started running rough, dropped a cylinder then died, Yellow and Red dash lights came on . My battery didn't have enough juice to start it so I got a boost and 2 more boosts later got it home.
Battery voltage at home was 10 volts (Yuasa XTZ14-BS age unknown). I removed the battery and slow charged it over night and it came up to 12.2 volts.
Put it in the bike and it started but voltage dropped to 11.6 then slowly lower until it wouldn't start again. Checking the voltage while it was running did not produce higher voltage as you would expect at different rpms as if its not getting a charge. I'm going to check the Regulator and stator next. If I need to replace either part what are recommendations for sources?

 

[BuellyBagger]

Start with a good battery first. (Harley Davidson or Deka). DEKA ETX14

 

[Barrett]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^What Cody said. Deka IS H-D OEM. ETX-14. Do NOT buy the L model as it has reversed terminals.
Yuasa YTX14 in BS or H suffix also outstanding quality and is AGM like Deka but owner activated for freshness. Deka in assorted house-brand flavors comes activated and sealed. Both made here in AmishLand and absolute top-quality.

Procedure as follows:
1-2008 all XB CEL activation from this precise scenario is Fault Code #16. Likely NOT stored in your ECM. 50 successive "clean run cycles" will remove it, if stored. Hence, your dash activation lights.
2-remove battery...check date code....apply 6 amp charge for approx 20 minutes then immediately have it load tested. Will confirm its health. Replace if questionable.
3-With known good quality battery(Deka or Yuasa) installed, start engine. NO accessories running...lights on LOW beam...hold steady speed of approx 2000RPM. Now test across the terminals with Volt-Meter and should see 13.2-14.5 volts at this engine speed. If you fail this test, then check all battery cable ends for cleanliness and tightness and prepare yourself to purchase a new Single-Phase VR.
Get to this point...report back with findings...will recommend multiple choice quality VR's.
Stator and VR testing is simple and spelled out in factory service manual.

 

[cterry66]

I checked the Stator plug pins to ground with an ohm meter and no Continuity like it should be. Continuity between the 2 pins was 0.1 again good.
Checked stator AC output with engine running. Ranges between 40V at 2K and 60V at higher revs. Manual says this is good.
Plugged the Stator back in to the VR and checked DC voltage, less than 1V at idle to max of 2.2V with revs. Looks like I need a new VR.
Any suggestions appreciated but not spending $160 for a Ricks. I realise I may also need a new battery but want to get the VR first.

 

[Barrett]

Sir: read the link below. Your VR is single phase and connects with twin plugs behind factory front left scoop. Link explains VR choices and part numbers. View my name for the info.

Your VR is shot. Be sure to ground the new VR to the mounting bracket as it's subtle, but a good ground provides slightly more consistent charging rates. AND...load test that battery. Why? A marginal battery puts a tremendous and unnecessary strain on the charging system.


https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?56481-Stator-replacement

 

[Cooter]

THIS^^^^

It would suck to smoke a brand new VR because of a weak battery.