Zero power to bike

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kdawg302000

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2015
Messages
80
Location
FREEDOM, CA
my bike won't start , but I'm dying long before the clicking. It started there and now the fuel pump won't even prime. I put it on a charger and it's was showing 100%, disconnected the battery and cleaned and reconnected. Same thing.

Just for the record...the run switch is on.

I put the key in and turn to on position, no lights, no power...nothing.

WTF? Please and thank you.
 
it's pretty simple so don't panic. and no need to post up on multiple threads for one simple problem. do the following and never ever trust your battery to what some chinese gauge on a charger is indicating:
1-remove fuse box cover and check all your fuses PARTICULARLY the ignition fuse.
2-remove battery---fully charge with a real charger which means approx. 6 amps for 20 minutes minimum. now and only now have it load tested to be assured it's fully operational and up to snuff.
3-after reinstalling battery be sure cable ends at all 4 ends are clean and extremely tight. double check that the frame attachment point of the negative cable is super clean and tight.
these are the 3 simple steps to start with. report back with results as it helps others.
 
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Sorry about the multiple posts. After I made the reply before, I figured I should just start a new thread. I also used a deltran battery tender power plus, which I think is made in the USA...but I digress. Haha

Anyways...i checked all the fuses and all is well there.

I charged the battery also and reconnected. It has a 1.25 amp output and 20A when I out it on boost...which I will try again. Unless I need to use another product.

I i cleaned and tightened them, but I will do it again just to make sure.
 
I once bought a OEM Batt from the Local HD shop in Fresno CA , Installed it only got a click click , Called HD up they wanted to sell me a solenoid, They did not want to consider they sold me a bunk Batt, and it would take 3 hr to test it so that they could get there $$ back from the HD dealer., I told them I put it on a 6amp charger, so then they said I ruined the Batt with too many amp. But why would I put it on a charger if it was working ??? I had to talk to the owner for 45 min and tell him the whole story. Finally it tested bunk and they gave me another one and I brought my load tester with me and tested it before I left. I will never go to that HD again!
 
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That's the funny thing. The battery is not new. I just bought it last year and had it on a trickle during the winter. Bike started fine for months...even after sitting for multiple weeks at a time. Might replace it, just because. After pulling it apart first, of course.
 
I just bought it last year and had it on a trickle during the winter.


strongly recommend never doing that again. that practice has been the source of many premature battery deaths thru time inmemoriam.
if you want to really simplify your situation and cut to the chase then simply jump your bike from your vehicle with known good battery. BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN your vehicle is OFF when doing it. this will quickly rule in or out the battery as your culprit....which i'm certain it is.
 
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Are we against battery tenders over the winter? Sorry I have a habit of using them. If so please explain or link me to the debate thread. I thought these BT's were a good thing.
 
AND THE RESULTS WERE????????????????
you flooded multiple threads with your "wont start" panic attack.....prompt assistance rendered.....and no rebuttal or follow-up results on your part? typical. how this was resolved won't help myself as i know everything....but would assist a ton of novice board members with the similar or identical problem.
 
Patience, patience, maybe he hasn't gotten to it yet, you all know how life gets in the way of fun.

It is just too hot !

Patience my *ss, If I had a bike that would not start I would not be able to sleep, I would be trouble shooting in my mind 24/7 until I got it running.
 
Aww come on. I'm not that bad, but patience is right. I ordered a battery and should get it today. Battery was holding charge, but they told me it had no cold cranking amps. Which seems legit, since it's like starting a tank to get this bike going. Starting there...and I'll give another update, once the battery comes in.
 
Aww come on. I'm not that bad, but patience is right. I ordered a battery and should get it today. Battery was holding charge, but they told me it had no cold cranking amps. Which seems legit, since it's like starting a tank to get this bike going. Starting there...and I'll give another update, once the battery comes in.

Yea , just like the one I had Volts but no amps. You will have it going today right ?? LOL I never said you were bad , I am the bad one with no Patience ! and I know it. :cool:
 
*update, called to get my battery, said it never got delivered. Called Monday, no delivery. They said I should have it by wendesday, call this morning says it came in yesterday. I'll be picking up the battery after work and installing. Will give another update after the install.
 
Bike fired up, as soon as I connected the battery. I was pretty excited so I took a ride. Talking with the guy at the shop, he advised against tenders too. Said with all the vibration, cranking bolts needed and heat changes here in northern California, that batteries tend to get after a year or two. Tender might help, but bells just require too much cranking power. All is well, for tonight. Thanks for the help and the patience...from some.
 
Also, I bought a battery and system tester off Amazon, as I never want to have to deal with this again. I do almost all my own work on my bike, but I know nothing about electrical ****. Once again thanks lunatic, for your help. I'll try and be more efficient about my response time.

you're welcome. i'm sure the "guy at the shop" meant well BUT let's clarify something here for you and other readers of this thread: buell XB's are demanding on batteries. that's a given. why? location....angle of placement....vibes....."compression bump".....and sporadic usage in most instances. none of this is related to a battery "auto-maintenance" device such as a tender. the inherent problem with "tenders" and leaving them attached and actively monitoring for indefinite periods of time is that they have an affinity for developing some sort of a "memory" wherein they eventually show the battery fully charged and healthy all-the-while it has been discharging and eventually dying. that is the best i way i can explain it. the deltran/yuasa techs don't fully understand why and neither do i. i do however know that what works quite nicely is a "tender" plugged into an outlet-style timer set to turn on for approx. 2 hours every 24 hour period. that method minimizes the "memory" scenarios.
 
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Also, I bought a battery and system tester off Amazon, as I never want to have to deal with this again. I do almost all my own work on my bike, but I know nothing about electrical ****. Once again thanks lunatic, for your help. I'll try and be more efficient about my response time.

With every hiccup a Buell throws at us, we learn from them. Glad you are up and riding !!!!!! and have more tools, ya cannot have to many tools.
 
lunaticfringe whats the "problem" with tenders? I use a 1 amp tender with any auto shutoff. I did use a 2 amp tender with an auto shutoff that did boil dry a battery. Does the 1 amp trickle charger tender with auto shutoff also ruin batteries? I know of a factory Yasu battery that was rendered useless after a year that spent most of it on a tender. What would you recommend? Once a month pop it on for 24 hours?

All V-twins are total pigs on batteries! bad enough the compression stroke is a killer on starters and batteries, but you cant push start one to save your life. I had an inline 4, 1000cc with carbs that I push started for 2 years before I broke down to by a battery. Hey if it worked for GP bikes! (didn't have a slip clutch)

i personally like tenders whether yuasa or deltran. i probably have 10 of them in my storage building hooked to assorted old cars and bikes in my collection that i actually ride. all go into one main receptacle box and that is on a timer. it activates @ 2200hrs and off @ approx. 0100 hrs. has worked nicely for years using that method and i'll typically get 10 years out of a car battery and 5 years out of most bike batteries with ease. MY EXPERIENCE ONLY is that the problems of "boil off" and "confusion" arise when they're left connected and plugged in for indefinite periods of time.
 
I like John charging concepts, on a smaller scale, I plug mine in once a wk for just over nite.
 
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