1125 intermitent shutoff
- Thread starter Cosworth
- Start date
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Little update, took the bike apart checked both plugs just to see how they looked both really nice but the rear was super loose (factory never removed before) anyway the IAC tube was pulled loose of the base so maybe that had something to do with it but if I put my finger over the IAC tube for just a second it would die.
Tried to connect my bluetooth purchased from the group buy fiasco and its dead does not work... Gave up for tonight see if i can resolder the bt connections and try again tomorrow.
Tried to connect my bluetooth purchased from the group buy fiasco and its dead does not work... Gave up for tonight see if i can resolder the bt connections and try again tomorrow.
Took the bike out for a short ride today It would try to die at every stoplight, and if it didnt the take off was very "jerky" The IAC is still when watching in diagnostic. I have to order a ecm cable as my bt module took a crap. Guess I may take the rotor off to take a look at the sprag clutch as ive been told this going bad could cause this.
Yup, its un-rideable right now....
TPS has been reset and the values are correct
The bike idles but runs very ragged and will die if left alone idling for 5 mins or so.
I went for a short ride around my block but would try to die "clunk" when leaving a stop sign and died 3 times in less than a mile.
Now this most recent only happened after spraying a little cleaner in the IAC and pulling the rear plug to see how it looked and re-installed.
Anyway at this point im kinda lost for what to do first.
Im going to check fuel pressure and maybe pull both injectors and run them on my test rig to see how they act.
Other than that gotta wait for a new cable to look more at whats going on.
TPS has been reset and the values are correct
The bike idles but runs very ragged and will die if left alone idling for 5 mins or so.
I went for a short ride around my block but would try to die "clunk" when leaving a stop sign and died 3 times in less than a mile.
Now this most recent only happened after spraying a little cleaner in the IAC and pulling the rear plug to see how it looked and re-installed.
Anyway at this point im kinda lost for what to do first.
Im going to check fuel pressure and maybe pull both injectors and run them on my test rig to see how they act.
Other than that gotta wait for a new cable to look more at whats going on.
heagachongoose
Well-known member
Stator? Sprag? Just throwing things out there.
How does your voltage look on idle?
How does your voltage look on idle?
Voltage is great stays about 13.6-14.3
Bike still has plenty of power, and acceleration too and no new noises.
Someone mentioned a sprag going bad could cause similar issues, i guess from the sprag sticking. So im going to pull the cover tomorrow and see what it looks like and put brand new plugs in.
On a side note does anyone know the OHM reading for a known good coil?
Bike still has plenty of power, and acceleration too and no new noises.
Someone mentioned a sprag going bad could cause similar issues, i guess from the sprag sticking. So im going to pull the cover tomorrow and see what it looks like and put brand new plugs in.
On a side note does anyone know the OHM reading for a known good coil?
Tinkered a little bit last night, mainly checking engine off/run position values in diagnostics.
Fuel pressure at first prime was only 480kpa, but if key off and prime again it was up to 520kpa but drops pressure pretty fast, is this normal?
Also front and rear AFV are both exactly 100, bike does have a EBR ecm is the adaptive locked out in that ecm?
Fuel pressure at first prime was only 480kpa, but if key off and prime again it was up to 520kpa but drops pressure pretty fast, is this normal?
Also front and rear AFV are both exactly 100, bike does have a EBR ecm is the adaptive locked out in that ecm?
just looked in the electrical manual for the 1125. It details the diagnostic codes associated with the coils and the breakout box diagnostics, but not the ohm readings for the coils.
Thanks logix, I finally have some time to work on the bike this afternoon. Im going to change the spark plugs out and ill just check the coils against eachother. And I might as well pull the rotor and take a look at the sprag.
My biggest problem is there are codes in the ECM still from when I got it from EBR that havent cleared, and I dont have a cable yet to clear the codes and determine what codes are actually the problem.
Hope its nothing big, riding weather is here in Texas!
My biggest problem is there are codes in the ECM still from when I got it from EBR that havent cleared, and I dont have a cable yet to clear the codes and determine what codes are actually the problem.
Hope its nothing big, riding weather is here in Texas!
Have you pulled the plugs yet? I Know it's a PITA, but you can't ride it anyway;p If one is fouled, check that spark plug wire for cracks. It could be shorting (sparking) to ground intermittently. If they are all fouled, keep looking at the ECM.
I like where you're going by Ohming the coil. I'm pulling from memory, but I think it's .5-.7 ohms for the primary side and 5.5K-7.7K for the secondary side? But the way you describe it, it seems like an intermittent problem. Coils are typically a go/no go type of thing...
If you don't have a spark tester, you can check the hi-tension side with a regular 12v test light. Ground one end and put the point near the spark plug end and the light should glow every time the plug fires. Should be a regular timed pulse, not intermittent.
Do NOT pierce the wire! ZAP!
I like where you're going by Ohming the coil. I'm pulling from memory, but I think it's .5-.7 ohms for the primary side and 5.5K-7.7K for the secondary side? But the way you describe it, it seems like an intermittent problem. Coils are typically a go/no go type of thing...
If you don't have a spark tester, you can check the hi-tension side with a regular 12v test light. Ground one end and put the point near the spark plug end and the light should glow every time the plug fires. Should be a regular timed pulse, not intermittent.
Do NOT pierce the wire! ZAP!
Ya, but there's a silver lining.
Now it will be easier to diagnose
Now it will be easier to diagnose
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2013
- Messages
- 880
Pop your fuel rail off and make sure it is flowing. You might have some crap that got sucked up in there.
Alright, changed both plugs, pulled both injectors and ran them on my test jig, the front acted like it had some junk in it so ran it till it cleared up. Blew out the fuel line and bolted it all back up.
Runs like a champ.
So to sum it up I noticed a couple of things
1 - plugs were very clean but rear had some soot at 6k miles
2 - The rear coil looked like the spring had collapsed when I reinstalled it last (maybe breakdown in spark)
3 - Front injector seemed partially clogged, I did fill up at a questionable station out of necessity last fillup
Runs like a champ.
So to sum it up I noticed a couple of things
1 - plugs were very clean but rear had some soot at 6k miles
2 - The rear coil looked like the spring had collapsed when I reinstalled it last (maybe breakdown in spark)
3 - Front injector seemed partially clogged, I did fill up at a questionable station out of necessity last fillup
Great news
