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2-stroke oil experiment.

Buellxb Forum

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Those cars with multiple o2 sensors have heated sensors. Like I said before, at a 500:1 ratio I doubt it is making any difference,esp with a heated o2.

Changing the voltage values for the o2 is just telling the computer to accept a richer a/f value as low, mid and high points. Change the values, burn them, reread the eeprom to make sure they burned properly (I have had them be off after burning them) of correct ride the bike for a couple days and notice the difference. Don't reset the afv or anything. Of you don't like it just change the values back, burn, check and continue on like it was before the change.

Edit: I live further south than you, in ft. Myers. I have found changing the o2 settings has eliminated the lean surge in closed loop. Best modi have done to any of my Buells.
 
More fuel = better top end lubrication. Try changing the o2 settings and stop using the 2 stroke oil for a while.
 
You can also try a little paraffin wax. Melt down approximately 5 ounces and pour it into a full fuel tank. It will clean the O2 sensor from the inside and remove ethanol deposits. You can buy 1 lb on Amazon for about $9 bucks. The price vs performance gains you will feel is off the charts. I've heard gains of 10-15 hp and my buddy said it stopped this annoying ticking noise in the drivetrain. It also helped him with his OCD and he stopped his incessant bitching.
 
DualDad you could be very right... that's gonna be the next step of the test. It may just be a lean condition that a lot of us have .. something we can compensate for with programming. Thing is that my 1203 is running the Buell race ecm.. will ecmspy give me the access I need to change the O2 settings?
 
As far as ecmspy and a race ecm you'll have to research that on your own. I've heard good and bad, no idea what version of ecmspy was used. I personally have a stock ecm tuned by xopti.
 
I tuned my 04 XB12S, K&N air filter, Breather reroute, Hawk exhaust, NKG plugs and the 2-cycle still made a noticeable difference in top end torque and smoothed out idle. I was going to report on fuel economy but my fuse for the dash popped right before fill up so I lost my trip mileage. Will report on next fill up.

I also changed my oil in both holes to the Redline 20W-60. First ride was commute to work, same drive as always, but about 10 degrees warmer than it has been and when I shut her down....NO FAN! Have been data logging and when I compared before and after the CLT was around 10-15 degrees cooler even with the higher ambient temperature. Never had that happen when ambient temperature was in the high 80's when running Mobil or Royal Purple 20W-50 Synth. Royal Purple seemed to make the normal engine chatter louder or more pronounced. Clutch also seems to be smoother when shifting with the Redline. I am sold on the Redline.
 
I just went from 1 oz to 3 oz MMO per tank in my 07 Tiger 1050. With 1oz I have noticed an almost %9 percent gain in fuel economy. Strangely it get's almost the same MPG as my ULY. I have also just changed the oil in the tiger and went with 15w-50 Silver cap Mobil 1. With 3 oz of MMO I noticed the bottom end at 2K RPM torque on the Tiger has greatly improved, not sure about the top end as I dirty my pants before pushing any limits. The Tiger actually thumps more at lower rpms. Appears to be starting a little faster, expect this to get better as it did on the Uly. Stock 07 Tiger suspension really sucks, really appreciate my Uly's suspension now. Getting new fork springs and a shock for the Tiger, hoping it comes close or near to a Uly suspension, or might be selling/trading it for something that can carry the weight of my wife, myself, and luggage. Well for this thread waiting for the parts before I push any top end out of it but so far, like every vehicle I own or work on: adding MMO to the gas has consistently improved mpg, performance, starting, and kept the intakes clean. Have MMO in the crankcase on the Uly, notice the oil has stayed cleaner than the cars I used in the crank, but for the Uly I notice it is dirtier than normal after 1000 miles. I might change it sooner because the MMO is prolly cleaning it out some?
 
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LOL thought this was fitting here!!
 
Just a idea but maybe this works better on air cooled engines Bcs the 2 stroke oil is acting as a cooling agent cooling down the combustion chamber preventing detonation.
 
I have been running the Redline racing 2T for weeks now... its FAR superior to the weedwacker oil.. in both the 9 and the 12. Its hot as hell in Florida right now and they are both just running like silk.. Ive never had a summer this good with the XBs. That Redline 20w-60HD is a big part of that too but the 2T is just like a cherry on top.
 
Yamaha has a good additive for E-10 Fuels ect.. and so does Startron Starbight. I only use it for storage.
I have been adding Yamahalube 2 stroke oil to my Diesel Fuel tank for more Lubricity. I add the same amount you mix with 2.5 gallons of gasoline to 20 gallons of Diesel fuel.
Adding Two Stroke Oil to E-85 ect sounds like a great idea.
I have put as much as 1.7 gallons of E-85 in my 3.5 gallon tank on my Yamaha FZ-07 with no known issues.. I have used 88 Octane when available which is E-15 usually costs 15 cents per gallon less than E-10 87 Octane.
 
Man, you're all over the place, lol. Not much more an additive can do for "lubricity" in a fuel oil thats already oil... like diesel fuel oil is.

I would recommend the correct octane minimum for your motorcycle, and E-85 in it will kill it quick simply by being dramatically lean without the ability to richen enough. If you like the bike. Stop doing that. Unless you are smarter than the engineers that designed it, do what they say. It's for your own good.

Ethanol sucks, and more Ethanol sucks more. Get your gasoline without it if you can. You will get more power and better function. Period.

But keep track if you're saving 45¢ for a tank of gas but putting $7.99 worth of additive in it.
 
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