2003 XB9R Rebuild
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charlevoixboy
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Thanks everyone! Everything but the neutral switch came in today so tomorrow I'll be busy. Picked up an Alpinestars leather jacket today and boots for $120 (used.) should be better than nothing. Gloves and pants are next.
Also, in a higher gear (4th or 5th) cruising along at like 30mph, do the Buells tend to be a little jerky? The second I open the throttle a little more it smooths right out as I accelerate. I'm assuming it's just a big v twin thing, but I don't have anything to compare to.
Also, in a higher gear (4th or 5th) cruising along at like 30mph, do the Buells tend to be a little jerky? The second I open the throttle a little more it smooths right out as I accelerate. I'm assuming it's just a big v twin thing, but I don't have anything to compare to.
charlevoixboy
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That's what I figured. I was dropping down a gear to clear it up, just didn't know if I had a tuning problem or if that's just the nature of the beast. Thanks!
They are torquey but they will RPM all day without issue. I'll cruise all day at 80mph. I wouldn't recommend accelerating hard below 3000rpm. Lugging an engine will cause many more problems than using the rpm in the power band.
charlevoixboy
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Still chasing the mysterious rear o2 always lean codes. Afv is at 103ish, so if it was a weak pump or plugged filter wouldn't it be a lot higher? I'm wondering if the k&n air filter is throwing the values off just enough at part throttle low load cruise to cause an issue. That's where it feels like the bike stumbles.
Got the steering head bearings in today, replaced the speed sensor, added a ground from the battery to the each anchor point and did a oil change. Rode about 100 yards and the clutch cable snapped at the lever! Tomorrow I'll make a mold and solder a new end on the cable, I'm determined to put some miles on it this weekend!
Got the steering head bearings in today, replaced the speed sensor, added a ground from the battery to the each anchor point and did a oil change. Rode about 100 yards and the clutch cable snapped at the lever! Tomorrow I'll make a mold and solder a new end on the cable, I'm determined to put some miles on it this weekend!
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Buy a new cable
charlevoixboy
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I've got a new cable on the way, but haven't ever had a problem with a repaired one if done right. I can post up some basic stuff if anyone's curious. Obviously do so at your own risk, but repairing one isn't any different of a process then a manufacturer or an old school mechanic has done to shorten or make custom cables.
bottlefedbuell
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My 03XB ate Speed Sensors for Breakfast. They had a re-wire kit that changed the supply voltage from the ecm to 5v. Was a little bit of a pain to install, but haven't blown one in 10 years since installing.
charlevoixboy
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Mine is supplying 12v at the moment. I'm tempted to install a regulator to drop it down to 5v, at $54 a pop I don't want to be replacing them a lot
njloco
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Would this over voltage problem for the speed sensor be for all years of XB manufactured Buells ?
charlevoixboy
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I'm not sure if it covers all the XB's honestly. I don't believe so though. From what I could find on the forum, there was a later speed sensor that incorporated a voltage regular, but for all I know it could just be a rumor.
Had the bike die while riding and a swift kick to the kickstand made it fire back up. I'm wondering if this "rear o2 always lean" code is being caused by the kickstand switch repeatedly dying while I ride. I started paying attention and have noticed hiccups and misfires here and there, and slightly leaning on the switch as I ride clears the stumble up. I'll bypass the switch as see what happens!
Had the bike die while riding and a swift kick to the kickstand made it fire back up. I'm wondering if this "rear o2 always lean" code is being caused by the kickstand switch repeatedly dying while I ride. I started paying attention and have noticed hiccups and misfires here and there, and slightly leaning on the switch as I ride clears the stumble up. I'll bypass the switch as see what happens!
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charlevoixboy
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Pics of the steering g head bearings replacement. Bearings were real pitted and gummy
charlevoixboy
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No huge updates, but I popped the kickstand switch off and lubed it up with some silicone spray, seems to move a lot more freely and stay closed when I ride. The steering head bearings definitely helped the steering, and I've got new front axle bearings waiting to go in, as I can observe a little play in the brake side bearing. Probably is explaining the odd handling when transitioning into braking.
Ran across an ad for an xb12 exhaust for cheap (had some dents) and decided to take a stab at gutting the can and making a hombrewed exhaust for it. I'll post up pics soon. I cut the can right in front of the rear support, and behind the front support and removed everything. Left the small pipe entering the can just long enough so that it completed the 90 and pointed back. The rear of the can was gutted, and I opened the can up to match the stock tip (didn't cut the welds off, worked from the inside.) I then put about a 1/2" of packing in the muffler from the front till about three quarters of the way back. Left the end without packing and welded it back up. If the packing shifts or burns out (I did use real exhaust packing) I'll probably just ditch it all togeather, but it should stay in there. At the same time I loaded up the xb9r race map onto the eco and reset the tps. Results aren't a ton louder (although it is louder) but a LOT deeper. Cannot stress how throaty is sounds now. Haven't noticed any power gains or loss, I'd imagine the midrange took a slight hit from the race map, but I'm no racer so I can't honestly tell.
If anyone else wants to attempt this I definitely recommend it, but a plasma cutter or even a small tip on an oxy/acetylene torch would have made my life waaaaaay easier when trying to removed the exhaust valve and the stock exhaust exit in the decorative tip. Pics to follow.
Good news is I kept my stock exhaust untouched, so I can just bolt it on if need be. Obviously I can't use the muffler as a jack point anymore, but that's fine by me, I'll figure something else out
Ran across an ad for an xb12 exhaust for cheap (had some dents) and decided to take a stab at gutting the can and making a hombrewed exhaust for it. I'll post up pics soon. I cut the can right in front of the rear support, and behind the front support and removed everything. Left the small pipe entering the can just long enough so that it completed the 90 and pointed back. The rear of the can was gutted, and I opened the can up to match the stock tip (didn't cut the welds off, worked from the inside.) I then put about a 1/2" of packing in the muffler from the front till about three quarters of the way back. Left the end without packing and welded it back up. If the packing shifts or burns out (I did use real exhaust packing) I'll probably just ditch it all togeather, but it should stay in there. At the same time I loaded up the xb9r race map onto the eco and reset the tps. Results aren't a ton louder (although it is louder) but a LOT deeper. Cannot stress how throaty is sounds now. Haven't noticed any power gains or loss, I'd imagine the midrange took a slight hit from the race map, but I'm no racer so I can't honestly tell.
If anyone else wants to attempt this I definitely recommend it, but a plasma cutter or even a small tip on an oxy/acetylene torch would have made my life waaaaaay easier when trying to removed the exhaust valve and the stock exhaust exit in the decorative tip. Pics to follow.
Good news is I kept my stock exhaust untouched, so I can just bolt it on if need be. Obviously I can't use the muffler as a jack point anymore, but that's fine by me, I'll figure something else out
charlevoixboy
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My cardio for the day:
Pic looking down the tip. Opened it up to match
I didn't take pics of welding it back together, or the packing, but you can google pics of the inside of a drummer, and I did pretty much the same thing. I painted it high temp silver, as well. I can get pics of it on the bike this weekend. Looks completely stock obviously, but doesn't sound stock! I've attached a diagram of the muffler I found online. I used this to mark the tape lines before I cut. Both weld seams are hidden by the muffler straps. If buellxb.com doesn't want me to use that image I can try to link it from where I saw it. Thanks all!
Pic looking down the tip. Opened it up to match
I didn't take pics of welding it back together, or the packing, but you can google pics of the inside of a drummer, and I did pretty much the same thing. I painted it high temp silver, as well. I can get pics of it on the bike this weekend. Looks completely stock obviously, but doesn't sound stock! I've attached a diagram of the muffler I found online. I used this to mark the tape lines before I cut. Both weld seams are hidden by the muffler straps. If buellxb.com doesn't want me to use that image I can try to link it from where I saw it. Thanks all!
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If you can see play in the wheel bearing do NOT ride it until you replace them. You sound like a capable guy and its a very easy job. With the front on a triple tree stand and the fender off, you can cheat the front caliper off without disconnecting the brake line by unbolting the caliper, removing the axle, and twisting the fork so the caliper mount is out of the way. Then you can slide the caliper off the rotor and the wheel comes out easy.
For some reason, when Buell wheel bearings fail it is catastrophic and instantaneous. A bad day on a bike. They are cheap. I like the All Balls or OEM only FWIW.
For some reason, when Buell wheel bearings fail it is catastrophic and instantaneous. A bad day on a bike. They are cheap. I like the All Balls or OEM only FWIW.
charlevoixboy
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Definitely good to know! I'll be staying off it until then. It has maybe a mm or two of wiggle room in it, and sounds dry and crumbly. I have all balls waiting to go in this weekend.
On the topic of stands, are there any that work good for the buell and won't leave me broke? I'd like to get a front a rear set and have run across some used ones on craigslist for R6's and the like. Thanks!
On the topic of stands, are there any that work good for the buell and won't leave me broke? I'd like to get a front a rear set and have run across some used ones on craigslist for R6's and the like. Thanks!
njloco
Well-known member
I recently watched a video on motorcycle stands, don't go cheap is all I can say, get good stands as the cheap ones you could bend easily !
I agree. Harbor freight ones are scary, and of course you can go overkill too. But I'm happy with some eBay stands that I have that were cheap but sturdy. No name brand, but check the shipping weight, it's a good hint at how strong they are
IMO, Get a good triple tree stand for the front. The ones that cradle the lower fork leg are only good for changing a tire and thats sketchy on a Buell when your twisting the fork leg.
IMO, Get a good triple tree stand for the front. The ones that cradle the lower fork leg are only good for changing a tire and thats sketchy on a Buell when your twisting the fork leg.
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