2008+ Buell XB9 XB12 Quickshifter Buelltooth Combo + Free Race tune for ECM.

[vicenzajay]

So for the others interested in this quickshifter - once you get it installed, depending on your bike's reaction to the stock kill time, you'll need to use ECMspy or Tunerpro and go the array I just mentioned above. Of note, Cooter let me know that the individual gear options are for the 1125, not the XB. You'll need to use the same values throughout the chart for our bikes.

I've tweaked mine just a bit quicker (to 100ms vice 120), as everything I've been able to read online about diagnosing quickshifter jumpiness (the way I'm experiencing it) points towards needing to tighten the timing a bit. I'll report back, but it will be a few days before the weather allows any riding here.

 

[Cooter]

Hopefully that works out for you, if not try a longer duration. Either the timing is already too short causing the engine being forced to decelerate to match the higher gears rpm. Or conversely the timing is too long and the engine decelerates too much.

 

[RedShift42]

I'm not clear, Is the eBay seller of this kit on here?

 

[Cooter]

Buelltooth? I have no idea. I'm sure you can ask them a question directly through their website?

 

[vicenzajay]

So I rode today - about 30 minutes - mostly twisties and back roads, but a few straights in order to try out the 100ms setting.

Much better all around. I'm going to tweak to 90ms and if it's even a touch better, then leave it. If it's no better, I'll go back to 100ms and leave it.

Crazy fun when you can use it

 

[Silverrider]

Sounds like you are getting it dialed in, and having Crazy fun.

 

[vicenzajay]

So working with 90ms today. Even better. I think I'm going to stick here, though....pretty darn smooth right now, and I think any excess jarring to the gear box is now eliminated.

Additional benefit to tighter timing is less 'momentary hiccup/tiny backfire at times' on normal shifts (i.e. the spark and fuel cut still operate when using the shift lever).

I think I'll call this good.

 

[Cooter]

You get a tiny backfire sometimes? Are you sure the spark and fuel are getting cut? It shouldn't do that if the fuels getting cut off. There will still be a tiny bit of gas in the chamber, but shouldn't be enough to reignite unless your engine normally runs very rich.

I tried both ways on the STT and can't get that pop, like the S1000R does. Me likey that pop

 

[Silverrider]

Yes, I like the pop also.

 

[TPEHAK]

Anyone here actually do this for their XB? I'm doing a good deal of reading, and this may be something I would be quite interested in doing....

Standard 2008+ eeprom will have that setting, correct (i.e. to allow the quickshifter function to work)?

I heard those quick-shifters badly rounds gearbox dog teeth, especially on the motorcycles where it originally has not been designed, so I would not use quick shifter on my daily riding motorcycle.

 

[vicenzajay]

Cooter - so ecmdroid shows the box checked which says - spark and fuel cut...

Is there somewhere else I need to go to verify it's actually doing that (i.e. both)?

 

[Cooter]

Nope. Thats the box. It's either spark cut (obviously) or fuel and spark.

 

[njloco]

Unless you actually have seen it yourself, I wouldn't go by what you heard. A good example of this would be, I heard bad things about Buell motorcycles and was told that the vibration was unbearable, I bought a Ully anyway and liked it so much that, I went ahead and bought an SS. I'm not saying a quick shifter doesn't round things off, I'm just saying until you see it yourself firsthand !

 

[vicenzajay]

One of the reasons I decided to go ahead and do it (besides the fun factor) is the fact that there are several plausible engineering points of view that posit quickshifting (when done correctly and setup correctly) is actually easier on the transmission than normal shifting. This was the reading/research I did for several days before ordering the module.

I'm 100% sure my first two rides were not easy on the gearbox....but we're talking about 10-15 shifts total...maybe 4-6 in lower gears that shouldn't have been made. Now that the timing is set up such that shifting is almost completely seamless, this fact coupled with only doing it at higher rpms and accelerating in higher gears shouldn't, at least it seems it shouldn't, have any effect on transmission life.

 

[vicenzajay]

If I'm still getting the occasional pop and the spark and fuel cut box is checked, this confirms my suspicion that my entire map is very rich.

This would also explain the issue I've had with AFV continually settling into the mid-80s (Cooter was part of that lengthy thread a few months ago). Although I am eventually going to change my O2 sensor (I've already bought it), I don't think mine is bad at all. My map is (in my opinion) just overly rich - at least in the narrow-band sections of the map - causing the bike to compensate and pull a large amount of fuel as a result of the learn function in the ECM.

I really, really didn't want to have to dive into manual tuning with this bike. It will entail buying another portable device and doing 'learning rides', figuring out how to use another software suite (actually suites - as this will probably require moving data between megalogviewer and tunerpro and what not), and hoping I don't mess up the bike and/or ECM in the process.

I have an extra, pristine ECM at the house - I'm contemplating sending it to IDS and just getting their most recent tune for my configuration...might be close to the same money overall when time and effort are taken into account.

 

[Silverrider]

When you say overly rich , What do your plug look like ?

 

[vicenzajay]

Don't know...and I'm not overly anxious to pull them until there's a long stretch of weather/etc. during which I wouldn't ride. Being a 2009, even getting to the front plug requires a good deal of wickering with the way the air scoop is attached together with the wiring, etc. And I'm not about to break into the airbox until I absolutely have to (GPR stabilizer is awesome, but getting it installed was a total pain in the a## - required sending the unit back to GPR, and then a second complete set of hardware being manufactured for the mounting point). As a result, I'm reticent to get into it at this point until I know that I won't be missing riding opportunities.

The bike runs fine...no decel pops, fairly smooth (although I'd like it a bit smoother in the 2.3-2.8k range), and it pulls hard. I do live at 2,300 feet, so there's probably a bit of the AFV adjustment due to that.

I'm all good - but I do know that some tuning-ish effort will be needed at some point. I just want to put all that stuff together into a single "down" session of maintenance/prevention/etc. for the bike as a whole. I'll do the O2 then, replace intake seals, change tires, fork service, and on and on....probably take it up to John's for a good portion of that. It's nice when you know that someone knows exactly what they are doing - and the fact that he happens to be a friend is a huge plus as well. Would like to do all that early spring...

 

[Cooter]

Sounds like you do have some fixing and then maybe tuning to do, the AFV making such a drastic (-20%!) global fueling change isn't good and 2300' of elevation won't require that amount of correction. Could be a number of things... The IDS solution would at least eliminate one possibility, and be a whole lot easier

You're right, the dogs in the trans will be fine. A smooth shift is a smooth shift, whether the clutch is in or not. This includes a quick shifter and a clutchless upshift by giving the shifter a little pressure and rolling off and on the throttle quickly= smooth upshift= trans is ok... I think someones starting bad rumors from uninformed heresay.....

For example, letting the engine drop to idle while coasting quickly (even while holding the clutch) then jamming it into 1st is hard on a trans (rough shift). It will also take MUCH more than a few test rides to hurt the trans.

John is a good friend to have! I hope to ride out to your neck of the woods some day:up:

 

[vicenzajay]

Cooter - yeah, you and I have had this conversation about my AFV. It varies...never pulls more than 15%, but that's too much in any case. The bike runs cool - fan never comes on unless stuck in traffic for a *long time - thus my conviction that the map is rich (maybe not 'very' but 'somewhat') in the narrow-band cruising range sampled by this system. I'm super hesitant about doing too much to it given the way the bike is running (i.e. a blast to ride and no functioning issues). I suppose the phrase, "don't fix it if it isn't broken" keeps playing in my head. If I hadn't bought the buelltooth last year and started looking at the actual map (with the idea of loading the buelltooth map for my config.), I'd never have known about the lower AFV. There are just no 'bad' running symptoms happening.

The occasional 'pop' on shifting now (when shifting normally) seems to be another bit of evidence for the overall richness of my mix. I will, at some time this winter, replace the O2 and get some other stuff done. I might even talk myself into getting a capable mini-netbook and settle in to actually tuning the damn thing (not my idea of fun, but there you have it). I need to learn quite a bit more about how to do that, however, with some kind of 'step 1, step 2, step 3' guide....and the the tunerpro .pdf guide, while good, doesn't really do that (no discussion of locking out AFV correction during tuning, etc.). I will need some help to tackle this in a DIY fashion.

Cheers in any case.

Break. break. If the Buelltooth owner is looking at this thread, the very simplistic one page install guide really needs some of the information we've sussed out here. Of importance is some advice with regard to technique (i.e. "how to shift with a QS"), how to tune the QS unit (within ECMSpy or Tunerpro) by adjusting kill timing, and what regime of engine use is really adapted for using this feature. Cooter and others have really helped me dial my unit in, as well as give some good advice for general use. This data should be included with the kit - might just save a gearbox or two as well as some confusion as to how to proceed once the unit is installed.