Silverrider
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- Sep 28, 2016
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Can you quantify (tightened pretty tight,) for me ? LOL
Big issue after adding oil
- Thread starter bassX6
- Start date
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Can you quantify (tightened pretty tight,) for me ? LOL
Well, he said the magic "and tightened it to spec, so"... which means that didn't happen at all:black_eyed: lol.
Bassx6, put on gloves and warm the engine first (a couple minutes at idle should be fine) if the plug is hard to remove...STOP! And heat the area further before continuing, otherwise the next thread you post will be; 'Help! I need a cylinder head!'
In the helpful link Silver provided, go to section 1.14 (page 1-37) and the spark plug torque spec is 11-18ft-lbs. Thats not "tightened pretty tight" at all, but is plenty to keep a 5/8" tapered plug in place for the 5,000 mile recommended inspection interval.
I know reading seems boring, but unless you have way more motorcycle repair experience that you seem to (no offense), the best way to save yourself money, time, and frustration is to peruse the info provided to you already in this thread. Good luck man
Bassx6, put on gloves and warm the engine first (a couple minutes at idle should be fine) if the plug is hard to remove...STOP! And heat the area further before continuing, otherwise the next thread you post will be; 'Help! I need a cylinder head!'
In the helpful link Silver provided, go to section 1.14 (page 1-37) and the spark plug torque spec is 11-18ft-lbs. Thats not "tightened pretty tight" at all, but is plenty to keep a 5/8" tapered plug in place for the 5,000 mile recommended inspection interval.
I know reading seems boring, but unless you have way more motorcycle repair experience that you seem to (no offense), the best way to save yourself money, time, and frustration is to peruse the info provided to you already in this thread. Good luck man
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Well, he said the magic "and tightened it to spec, so"... which means that didn't happen at all:black_eyed: lol.
Bassx6, put on gloves and warm the engine first (a couple minutes at idle should be fine) if the plug is hard to remove...STOP! And heat the area further before continuing, otherwise the next thread you post will be; 'Help! I need a cylinder head!'
In the helpful link Silver provided, go to section 1.14 (page 1-37) and the spark plug torque spec is 11-18ft-lbs. Thats not "tightened pretty tight" at all, but is plenty to keep a 5/8" tapered plug in place for the 5,000 mile recommended inspection interval.
I know reading seems boring, but unless you have way more motorcycle repair experience that you seem to (no offense), the best way to save yourself money, time, and frustration is to peruse the info provided to you already in this thread. Good luck man
I'll be learning everything I can here, I am a newbie among more experience buellers
as you can tell from my "tightened to spec" experience, I still have much to learn :topsy_turvy:
No offense taken haha
user_deleted
Well-known member
i'm going to suggest something here that was priceless to me during my "whipper-snapper" years. the suggestion? GET HELP!
you'll be diving into a complex and tedious "area" of an XB.....the under-airbox components. what you now have going on is a front cylinder blown-out spark plug...a rear cylinder plug that needs to be removed and replaced for good measure....stored fault codes...probably bad plug wires....perhaps more. NOT being overly-critical here....that is NOT my intent...but your prior posts indicate both a clear lack of knowledge and experience. you'll need a pair of NGK DCPR9EIX plugs...some torx drivers in assorted sizes...a dedicated 3/8th drive plug socket....and a combo of straight 3/8th drive extensions, the driver, and a swivel. everything from the airbox cover down to and including the airbox base plate must be removed so that not only the rear plug can be properly removed and new installed but that the coil assembly as well as the wiring harness AND both plug wires can be carefully inspected. your front plug is simple: a 5/8th box wrench is all that's required along with removing factory air scoop(quantity 3 small torx). all this is tedious but very satisfying work with great results when properly performed. do yourself a favor and search out a competent local guy with some sportster/big-twin experience that can lend you 2 hours worth of assistance @ a reasonable cost. best $ you'll ever spend. in all probability you also have multiple stored fault codes...16&24 come to mind. though they'll self-clear after 50 trouble-free duty cycles you'll still need to eventually take a look at your ecu. do as you please but offering sound advice that typically ends up with great results. also if you could forego the "haha" valediction on your responses us old bastards would be most appreciative.
you'll be diving into a complex and tedious "area" of an XB.....the under-airbox components. what you now have going on is a front cylinder blown-out spark plug...a rear cylinder plug that needs to be removed and replaced for good measure....stored fault codes...probably bad plug wires....perhaps more. NOT being overly-critical here....that is NOT my intent...but your prior posts indicate both a clear lack of knowledge and experience. you'll need a pair of NGK DCPR9EIX plugs...some torx drivers in assorted sizes...a dedicated 3/8th drive plug socket....and a combo of straight 3/8th drive extensions, the driver, and a swivel. everything from the airbox cover down to and including the airbox base plate must be removed so that not only the rear plug can be properly removed and new installed but that the coil assembly as well as the wiring harness AND both plug wires can be carefully inspected. your front plug is simple: a 5/8th box wrench is all that's required along with removing factory air scoop(quantity 3 small torx). all this is tedious but very satisfying work with great results when properly performed. do yourself a favor and search out a competent local guy with some sportster/big-twin experience that can lend you 2 hours worth of assistance @ a reasonable cost. best $ you'll ever spend. in all probability you also have multiple stored fault codes...16&24 come to mind. though they'll self-clear after 50 trouble-free duty cycles you'll still need to eventually take a look at your ecu. do as you please but offering sound advice that typically ends up with great results. also if you could forego the "haha" valediction on your responses us old bastards would be most appreciative.
Get plug wire pliers for that rear plug. Best tool money I've spent in the last couple of years (honestly never needed them before, but I don't know how I'd have gotten the rear plug boot on or off without them.)
Put it in using a bit of fuel hose over the insulator so you're sure you're not cross threading it.
There is a very good you tube primer someone linked to already I think...
Put it in using a bit of fuel hose over the insulator so you're sure you're not cross threading it.
There is a very good you tube primer someone linked to already I think...
Thank you for all the advice, I'll definitely heed this and learn from it, in time I hope to be able to apply everything I learn from you all, so I appreciate the constructive criticism and help
also, Duly noted, I'll keep that in mind for my responses
Good luck man, and post up what happens:up:
