Broken Exhaust Stud/Head Removal

[wolfo68]

ou seem to be eluding that these studs are torque to yield fasteners, can anyone else confirm this? I have never heard that before and the manual doesn't say anything about this. I've had my top end off 2 times and have reused the studs.

I was talking with the guys at my HD when I broke one of mine and they said to always replace those studs for that reason.

 

[beatsthejaps]

If there is any stud at all sticking out, get some vice grips on it. Should come out fairly easy with no torque on it. At least ive had good luck with it

 

[beatsthejaps]

P.s dont screw up the head surface though. Careful!

 

[lrholy06]

Well sorry to bring this back up but does anybody have a write up to remove the frame?
I removed the headers without the engine rotation but then messed up while drilling. It looks like I have to remove the head now anyway and have a buddy machine it for me.
The service manual says to rotate the engine to remove the frame but from the pics that Wolfo68 posted above it doesnt look like the engine had been rotated.

 

[konarider94]

whether you lower the engine out the bottom like the manual states or pick the frame off the top while the engine is supported its essentially the same procedure. i put my bike on stands and use a motorcycle jack to lower the engine out.

 

[lrholy06]

Awesome! I did it. If you had told me even a few weeks ago that I would be rotating an engine out I would have just laughed at you. Thanks for everybody's help here, Sure could not have done it without you guys. So heres to the little guys who are not that mechanically inclined but who go for it anyway.

Now I just have to get it back together without any leaks!

 

[squidbuellie]

right on..remove the throttle body. then but the head back on.

 

[TPEHAK]

Did you replace the cylinder base gasket? I am about to replace leaking push rod cover o-ring, and it looks like if you unscrew the cylinder head you unload whole assembly so I believe it means you break the base gasket too and have to remove the cylinder head completely to replace the cylinder base gasket. It also means you have to remove pistons from the cylinders to be able to replace the base gasket, and as result you have to replace all piston rings by new rings and hone the cylinder before assembling everything back according manual. Did you do all this stuff?

 

[Cooter]

Can't wait for your new thread about it... This ones almost 6 years old.


If you unbolt the head, there is nothing left holding tension on the cylinder so you can just pull it up to replace the gasket.
If your engine wasn't tired, you could raise the cylinder (jug) up just enough to remove the wrist pin with the piston still in the cylinder and separate it from the rod that way.
Since your engine is worn out, the professional mechanic who should be working on your bike will tell you to get new rings and cylinders.

No one, and I mean NO ONE on this planet has ever replaced a superficial pushrod cover leak without another reason to be that far disassembled (like needing an engine re-build).

IMHO, I would solve the problem you have by taking an aerosol cleaner and spray a small amount on a clean rag, then use your finger to wipe the use of the pushrod cover gently for a second or two. When the seepage occurs again in a month or two, repeat the process.

 

[TPEHAK]

The engine has only 20000 miles on it, so the engine should be OK.

 

[Cooter]

20K miles on a Buell is very low mileage.

However.... you have posted pics of the sludge buildup in your intake tract caused by blow-by.
Blow-by is caused by leakage past the cylinder wall and piston.
That leakage is allowed by piston rings that aren't sealing properly.
There is no 'repair' for piston rings. Just replacement.
When you replace piston rings, you should either carefully measure your cylinder (and then machine or hone them depending on what you find), or just replace them with new.

 

[TPEHAK]

There is no blowby, no smoke from exhaust, no smoke from breather reroute, breather reroute barely puffs.

 

[Silverrider]

There is no blowby, no smoke from exhaust, no smoke from breather reroute, breather reroute barely puffs.

Keeping an eye on your compression is a good way to assess the condition of your top-end. Heat and wear gradually reduce the piston-ring and valve seal which keep the pressure in the cylinder causing power loss.

 

[Cooter]

There is no blowby, no smoke from exhaust, no smoke from breather reroute, breather reroute barely puffs.

BUT "you have posted pics of the sludge buildup in your intake tract."


Either way, if you have the engine that far apart (and you have an obsessive personality), IMO... Re-build it.

 

[TPEHAK]

I have a good question. 2009 Buell XB service manual in the cylinder removing process description does not mention anything about exhaust headers removal and braces between front and rear cylinders removal. It says unscrew rocker box cover, rocker box and cylinder right after engine rotation. No any steps with exhaust headers and braces removing. Should I remove this stuff first before unscrewing cylinders? It looks to me the exhaust headers and braces attached to the cylinders and I can not remove cylinders without removing these parts. I even do not have access to the cylinder head screws without removing the braces.

 

[Silverrider]

Yes , Remove all first. Its not rocket science.

 

[Outlaw]

I believe that's listed in the pull yer head out ,common sense section.

 

[njloco]

Your asking too much !

 

[Cooter]

They aren't list in the manual because they expect you to re-engineer all that stuff and build a CAD file for every sub-par Buell junk part you pull off that thing and re-engineer every piece of hardware before you reinstall it. Get busy man.

Katie Perry said titanium is way better, you should build all new parts with that stuff.