Climate vs Oil Levels in the XB

[mrlogix]

now that the formality of formula's are behind us. Let's make it simple. As stated many times on this forum, the best way to check is with the engine up to full operating temp after allowing a drain back period to pass like the manual says. This eliminates as many variables as possible.

P.S. thanks whoever took away a rep point. Sniff, sniff.

 

[mrlogix]

Tbone- typical oil breakdown in an internal combustion engine is from combustion contamination because of blowby. Just sayin......guess I better stop before someone takes away all my rep points.

 

[GregoXB]

My summer protocol for checking oil level was yielding different results for me in the winter. This morning I checked it sooner and the level was adequate.

 

[GregoXB]

Although I should add that before the winter started I changed my oil and added several times to ensure proper volume. In the fall, I was able to get a solid 3/4 reading on the dipstick, in the winter the BEST reading I got this morning was just below the 1/2 mark on the dipstick.

Fuck it though, I guess what counts is I am checking the motherfucking oil. Maybe I should invest in a gauge so I can monitor it, because that shit drives me crazy. Are there any dip stick oil gauges out there for the XB's? It would be cool just to look and observe the gauge.

 

[thrstrmech]

Greg0XB...there with you finding a gauge.

mrlogix...the rep point thing use to get to me as well, I questioned it before and someone started removing them, not one or two points, but several. I have an idea who it was, but not worth it. Anyway, thanks for breaking it down as such. Haven't gone that far since school...

 

[mrlogix]

Fuck it though, I guess what counts is I am checking the motherfucking oil.

LMFAO-yeah, that's about it. Ride safe my friend.

 

[Tbone]

Thanks Mrlogix, Thrstmech, and Lunaticfringe,
Before acquring my Ulysses, I was of the school that clean oil is the best oil no matter what type, conventional or synthetic. If it was dirty it was time to change it no matter how many miles are on it. I changed my car's oil sometimes every 2K or sometimes over 4K or 5K miles, if it was still clean it was still good, if it was dirty it was no good and time to change it. With this method I used some cheaper store brand conventional oils, also filters in my cars. With synthetics this gets a little more expensive so I just change it every 2800 to 3200 miles and sometimes the oil is dirtier than I like it to be. Thinking since it is synthetic oil the engine is still being protected even if the oil is dirty, is this flawed thinking? There were a few times at 2K miles I would have changed the oil if it were not synthetic in my Uly, but proceeded to ride to 2800 or 3K miles since it is synthetic.

 

[mrlogix]

as oil becomes contaminated by combustion byproducts it loses it's shear properties and it's lubrication properties. On standard ICE's (internal combustion engines) like automotive engines, this is an issue because they use plain babbit style bearings. They are very dependent on the hydraulic ramping effect for proper bearing function. Most of our bikes use roller bearings (or needle) and oil cleanliness is important to keep particulates out of these bearings. Babbit bearings have an embedding principle to capture these particulate, roller bearings do not. A good quality oil filter is your best protection. As far as oil life, roller bearings are more tolerant of oil breakdown from petroleum combustion byproducts than plain bearings, but more sensitive to particulate. If your using synthetics and a good filter, you should be good for 3-5K miles. Conventional oils, 2500-3K miles. This can be adjusted for high mileage engines as more ring wear equates to more blowby. High mileage being 50K plus on an air cooled bike engine or 75K for water cooled. Air cooled being lower to more temp extremes.

 

[Tbone]

Thanks again, [up]