Clutch slipping under load

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I would heed Lunatics advise. His experience with Buells and motorcycles in general is vast. And why not? It's cheap and in your hand while doing a clutch. A weak diaphragm spring would absolutely cause your issue.

Maybe it fixes your problem of burning clutches, maybe it's something else, but theres no downside to putting in a new one. So again, why not?
 
Not the amount of squeeze, but force on clutch lever. If it is the same as before it means the spring has same force as before.

Even troubleshooting section of service manual says in case of slipping clutch readjust the clutch or change clutch plates. Nothing about clutch spring.


.....????
 
I would heed Lunatics advise. His experience with Buells and motorcycles in general is vast. And why not? It's cheap and in your hand while doing a clutch. A weak diaphragm spring would absolutely cause your issue.

Maybe it fixes your problem of burning clutches, maybe it's something else, but theres no downside to putting in a new one. So again, why not?

thanks for the very kind words shaughn!
this directed towards board members interested in clutch replacement done the correct way.......not TEABAG who argues for the sake of argument and trolling.
a wet-clutch system is "wet" for one reason and one reason only: a method to cool the clutch pack in an enclosed environment. that's it. all buells have wet-systems. why an enclosed environment? to cut down on both noise/chatter and dirt from exiting and entering the clutch pack. the bane of any wet-clutch system is heat. it destroys the friction plates....warps and discolors the metal driven plates....and causes the tension springs to fatigue and lose their ability to fully clamp the pressure plate to the pack. XB's have a diaphragm spring in lieu of multiple coil wound tension springs. it's a nice well-thought-out simple design but the spring should always be replaced when servicing the clutch with new components.
we will now resume normal programming and return you to this worthless thread.
 
Let's see, tear into the clutch, and not replace a spring because the manual doesn't say so. ? Let me think about that for a moment ?
Let's see, do what lunatic suggests, since he knows Buells inside and out, or do what the manual says to do, let me think about that ?

No one is right all the time but neither is the manual, example would be, torque specification's. If I had to take apart my bike due to the clutch,, I would replace everything I could, it's kind of like carpentry, measure twice, cut once !
 
Well, you can replace a bunch of things, primary chain because of it can be stretched, clutch basket because of it can have worn sprocket teeth, needle bearing because of it can be worn, clutch ramp because it can have worn grooves and balls, e.t.c.
 
Here’s a tip to help your clutch last longer;
At stop lights, on a hill, use the brakes to keep your bike from rolling, NOT THE CLUTCH.
I abuse the hell out of my bike and it has about 45k on it, with the original clutch. Only thing I’ve ever replaced is the clutch basket, due to it having a hairline crack.

Which clutch pack do you use? Is it original Buell XB clutch pack? I bought mine on americansportbike.com, and it looks different than original, the pads color and pattern are different.
 
It is getting worst faster and faster. It already slows down at 40 mph during moving uphill.
 
Dear Lord. Please help TPEHAK see the light. He is considering taking apart the whole clutch assembly, and while it is apart and perfectly ready to replace, he thinks that sanding the plates and re-installing a known blownout clutch and spring is a good use of his time and money.

Go ahead, see if it will hold 84ft/lbs of torque. Report back. I alway like a good chuckle.
 
Dear Lord. Please help TPEHAK see the light. He is considering taking apart the whole clutch assembly, and while it is apart and perfectly ready to replace, he thinks that sanding the plates and re-installing a known blownout clutch and spring is a good use of his time and money.

Go ahead, see if it will hold 84ft/lbs of torque. Report back. I alway like a good chuckle.

zw9i6.jpg
 
I am going to open primary case soon. I'm so excited to see what is happening inside! Stay tuned!
 
Alright. The new clutch plates Barnett 306-300-20015 and some cheap clutch spring retaining rings A-37908-90 Eastern Performance are here. Those rings look worst than original made in Japan Buell 37908-90 retaining ring, they are not perfectly flat and they have no perfect surface finish. But at least they made in the USA, so I hope they will just work and won't let my clutch pack blow apart.


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I also found that the clutch plates I bought in americansportbike.com which are currently installed and slips are the same Barnett 306-300-20015 clutch plates. So it looks like these Barnett clutch plates will not let me ride more than 11000 miles.

Here is Barnett clutch plates vs original 2009 Buell XB clutch plates. I replaced original clutch plates at 11000 miles and they were OK, but now at 22000 miles the Barnett clutch is slipping, so I believe the original Buell clutch plates will work longer than that high performance Barnett clutch plates.


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I have over 32,000 miles on my bike with original clutch and NO problems. You must beat the hell out of that bike!! I feel sorry for that poor bike.
 
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Probably Barnett clutch plates fault. Maybe I need to use Buell clutch plates. I'm going to inspect them soon.

I'm wondering where are those metal chips from? From clutch dog? From starter gear?
 
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